Good Paint For A Wood Sign...

[shilala]

I want to paint v-carved letters gold on a cherry sign.
From what I've seen here, you guys seem to use 1 shot.
So I looked up 1-shot and there at least 3 kinds of gold, maybe more.
My questions are:
Which one should I choose if you suggest 1-shot?
Should I consider something different altogether?
Is there a place to be 1-shot that's cheaper than Amazon?

This sign will be stained and poly'd after the letters are painted, so it'd be good if the paint won't stain. The "sign" is going to be indoors, if that matters.
Thank you!!!

[dmidkiff]

Scott stain and finish board, then use paint mask, then carve. Apply another top coat before painting with your selection. Hope this helps.

[Ernie Balch]

The best looking gold paint is sold by modern masters. They will sell small containers.

In One shot paints the metallic Brass color makes better gold letters than their gold colors.

ernie

balchsigns.com

[bcondon]

I have used Modern Masters on many outdoor signs over the last 6 years and
have not had any failures. I usually use Rustoleum oil white primer as a primer and then 2 coats of gold.

Thanks

Bob Condon

[shilala]

Scott stain and finish board, then use paint mask, then carve. Apply another top coat before painting with your selection. Hope this helps.
Dave, I'm not sure what you mean there?

Thanks for the input, everybody!!!

[dmidkiff]

The top coat will seal the mask to prevent paint bleed. Probably should have said sealer instead of top coat. Shellac, sanding sealer, or lacquer will work. Hope this is more clear.

[shilala]

The top coat will seal the mask to prevent paint bleed. Probably should have said sealer instead of top coat. Shellac, sanding sealer, or lacquer will work. Hope this is more clear.
I think I see.
Mask, carve, seal (leaving masking on), then paint?
The whole sign should be stained and sealed prior to masking, then after painting the letters, remove the mask and seal the whole works again?
I'm not sure that's exactly the drill, but it makes perfectly good sense!
Thanks again, Dave!!!

[dmidkiff]

That's how it works for me. Your mileage may vary. There is an excellant how to finish 3D projects article here on the Shopbot forum. I think by Tim Merrill. I hope I spelled his name right. I think it may be on the Vectric forum too. That may help. Sorry don't know how to find and post a link.

[shilala]

Thanks for even more help, Dave!!!
I'll search for that thread, I'm sure it won't be too hard to find.

[scottp55]

OK, Idiot question, but may need to highlight cribbage board holes and lines for visually impaired(black holes on black wood don't show well). Are you guys talking about "regular" masking tape? or is there a better product signmakers use? Board 5.25 width.:confused:

[dmidkiff]

Yes Scott is is a tape that sign makers use. Someone here (I think Brady) recommended "Gerber Mask Ultra II". I have not tried it yet as I don't use much and had Avery Brand. They come in various widths and lengths. I found the Avery at a vinyl sign supply house "Earl Minich".

[scottp55]

Thanks Dave, Looked on Google after(dumb) but was just as confused on what to use on solid wood after as before. Had someone recommend varnish, but using up 500bf of torrefied ash(LARGE pores) on this one project with a handrubbed oil finish and worried about the varnish contrast. Will concentrate on Gerber and try to find an entry option as we don't do signs(Yet:)).

[dmidkiff]

Scott, sorry for the confusion. The company was Earl Mich Company. They are in Ill. Their info www.earlmich.com and phone 800-642-4872. I get email from them very regular and delete. This info is from their morning email. I usually seal solid wood before applying paint mask. I use sanding sealer or lacquer. Others I think use shellac. Sorry I don't know what torrefied ash is. A picture might help. If it is very porous I would consider epoxy.