Running out of time…

[steve_g]

I’m making these mirror frames for my son’s new home… I was about to have the mirrors installed when I decided that one more coat would be good… Wrong!

This is a Rust-oleum rattle can finish. I couldn’t get that nice a crinkle finish if I was trying!

My question for our resident finishing experts is… Is there a quick fix?

SG

[bob_reda]

No quick fix here. I had this happen once to me with the crystal lac finish. Talked to tech support and have been waiting 4 years for an answer:eek: Only thing I can figure is that the time between coats maybe a little too long. The only thing I can suggest is sanding.

Bob

[Brady Watson]

I'm NO finishing expert by ANY stretch...BUT - I've screw up enough things to offer the following 2 choices:

1) Roll with it. Get a sponge & some latex & put MORE texture on there. ScupltNouveau gold et al would look fine.

2) Cook it good with the heat gun, let it cool & scotch pad the cooties off of it & re-finish.

-B

[steve_g]

One crinkled one didn’t… only difference was that I had lightly sanded the one that crinkled.

Brady… I seriously considered the textured route but that isn’t what my daughter-in-law wanted.

Sanding…
SG

[kubotaman]

The one you sanded opened up the lower coats that were not completely dry. What you did was create a "mud puddle" effect. A mud puddle cracks for the same reason, undercoat drying at a different rate from the top coat. You can solve your problem by letting the frame completely dry then apply thin coats of a "sandable" primer. Reason for the primer is to help fill in your crinkle finish since it is made to be sanded since it is much softer than the top coat. Then apply you finish coat in thin applications. That should solve the problem. Just take your time and not rush it.

[steve_g]

Daryl…
Makes sense and sounds like a plan! I got out a bright light and a magnifying glass to read the paint can recommendations… Turns out they want 48 hrs. between coats, I was doing 24 at best.

Thanks,

SG

[Joe Porter]

Steve, that is one of my Christmas wish list items..A magnifying glass surrounded by a bright light...joe

[kubotaman]

Steve, another quick note would be to sand with wet and dry sandpaper, grit 320-400. Use a small amount of water along with the light pressure sanding. You can add a small drop or two of liquid detergent That gives it a little slicker surface without too much aggression to the paint. . Do not sand too hard. You do not want to cut the lower surface of the paint, only the crinkle tops. Be sure to use plenty of clean water. You can use a clean sponge to apply water. No need to apply under a faucet. Use clean water to get all residue off, let dry then apply paint. Just wait between coats and you will have a perfect surface!

[myxpykalix]

probably the quickest answer is to just make another frame and try again. For me, my attempts at "fixing" things usually takes longer then just doing it over:eek:

[bryson]

You might also try washing it off with enamel reducer? I've done that to wash the last coat off?

[steve_g]

A quick wrap-up here...
The automotive primer suggested by Daryl made quick work of the repair. Quick build up and fast sanding helped me get the project back on track!

Thanks all

SG

[johnh]

Daryl's advice was definitely spot on. Beware - Rustoleum anything just doesn't dry. It stays gummy inside for a long time. Ive had to sand it off, wash it off with thinner, and also did the sandable fill over it trick too... all because of the exact same crinkle up. If I can see my finger nail mark by pressing into it - I wait to recoat. There instructions usually say something like "recoat within 2 hours or after 48 hours" or to that effect. Its strange stuff.

[bleeth]

FYI: There is a chemical reason why some paints can be recoated fairly quickly or if not, then require a longer time before re-coating.
While the paint is still fresh the next coat will chemically bond to the surface in such a way that the paint below the surface, which is still not cured, can still outgas, which is a natural occurance with paint. Once the surface reaches a certain amount of cure however, the new coat makes this process happen unevenly and causes crazing. So then, before second coating, you need to wait till the bottom coat is completely cured.

When using rattle can paint like Rust-O-Leum, it is important to make that first coat a thin one, even to the extent of it still being somewhat transparent and still showing the material through it. You can then apply a second and third coat pretty quickly. If there is any reason at all to need to sand imperfections before final coat, you do need to wait until it is completely cured. As these products are made for home use, they do not completely set up very quickly, so a good couple days could be in order, particularly in cooler temps.

[jTr]

Had a similar issue a few months ago - paint pro looked at the rattle can in search of and found the information on the "re-coat window". What you experienced is exactly what I did - though I was playing it safe allowing an overnight dry. Next morning, I shot another layer and got the gorgeous crackle.

Congratulations, you've not only made a very nice mirror frame, you're a crackle finish pro now!

jeff

[shilala]

I'll tell you guys a little trick I use for that kind of major malfunction.
Clear PVC primer. Soak a lint-free rag, and wipe the mistakes off slowly.
Clear PVC primer will take paint off of anything. What's cool, is if you're careful, you can take paint off another layer of paint. Like when you get overspray on paint that's already been cured.
It'll take black magic marker off anything, too.
You just have to be careful. It's agressive, but not so agressive that it'll get away from you unless you're some kinda blockhead. :)

[myxpykalix]

Scott so what you are talking about is...when i do plumbing i use a purple primer then the glue to join pvc together.
What you are talking about is a clear version of that primer right?

[mikeacg]

Very cool tip Scott! I always have a can of that stuff sitting around here.

Jack,

There are quite a bunch of different colored pvc products these days. I couldn't believe all the different colored labels with glues, primers and cleaners at Ace last week. On new construction, the building inspector here requires the purple because then he can see that you used it but on 100+ year old houses like mine I can use the clear because I don't have to be inspected so I keep it in stock. Never thought of using it like this though!

Mike

[bcondon]

Well first, I learned a whole pile of things because I use Rustoleum and have often had the crazing problem!

As for the PVC primer, around us, none of the professionals use the purple and if you do, the inspector knows that the homeowner did the work and not a licensed plumber. Yea... I got caught on the drains so I had to block the drain into the septic and fill the entire system through the vent on the roof..... One joint let go so I got to vacuum up a pile of water!!

Thanks
Bob COndon