Need bit advice

[wespor]

Up and cutting with my new Desktop. I'm taking a printmaking course right now and I thought it would be an interesting experiment to CNC out some of my wooden and linoleum blocks. I've had some pretty good luck so far but my smallest bit, the 16th tapered end mill that make with the bot just isn't small enough for fine detail cuts.

Can anyone suggest a better bit for shallow, thin cuts?

[wespor]

The 1/16" ball nose taper, I meant to say. Missed the edit window.

[Brady Watson]

Take a look at HarveyTool.com

-B

[hh_woodworking]

Precise bits is also good for detail bits precisebits.com

[steve_g]

Weston…
I’ve made some prints from blocks that I cut with a “V” bit. By using true V-carve cutting strategies, you can get very fine detail!
SG

[scottp55]

Weston, I agree with Steve that a vbit with vcarve might be the way to go. That's what I used in your sample cut(Wharton).

[wespor]

Okay, appreciate the advice. When choosing a V bit, what is the ideal shank size when I have all the collets available, what difference does it make when the cutting edge is the same size?

[wespor]

Oh, and any thoughts on this system?

http://www.amanatool.com/ingroove/index.htm

[Burkhardt]

For the InGroove system:

Pro: The blades are very sharp and cut quality good.

Con:
- blades are expensive
- I can not run higher than 15krpm due to vibration/imbalance
- the sharp tips are very fragile. I can not run the recommended speeds in hardwood without losing the tips.

[steve_g]

Weston…
I always use the largest shank available for the bit that will do the job… That is to say, if I have a choice between a ¼” shank 60° bit or a ½” shank 60° bit I’ll go with the ½” shank. I’ve broken several of the above mentioned style ¼” shank bits. HOWEVER, if I’m cutting with an ⅛” bit, a bit with a ¼” shank stepped down to a ⅛” breaks at the step down quicker for me than a ⅛” bit in an ⅛” collet. Hope that makes sense.
I’d make sure I was happy with the V-cutting technique before I invested the money in the “ingroove” equipment…

SG

[wespor]

I’d make sure I was happy with the V-cutting technique before I invested the money in the “ingroove” equipment…

Ahh, quite so. I get ahead of myself sometimes.

[scottp55]

Weston, the side by side comparison pics seem to have disappeared, but the thread still has some good info.http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18914

[wespor]

Weston, the side by side comparison pics seem to have disappeared, but the thread still has some good info.http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18914

Thanks, looks like a touchy tool. I'll definitely give it a look again when I'm more experienced. It sounds expensive since you have to buy at least 10 at a time but the "create your own custom profile" feature on their website looks amazing.

In the mean time, I found this guy on amazon prime for 30 bucks. I haven't created any tools in the software yet, so that will be a learning experience (hope I don't break the thing) but my plan is to use it for edge detail and then some other larger bit in the Desktop Kit to remove the middle areas.

http://www.amanatool.com/routerbits/fine-carving-liner-45783.html

I'll try a V-Groove as well, the kit came with a 90° but I think that will be too thick for me. I couldn't find any 60° bits in stock around town or on amazon prime shipping.

[Bob Eustace]

Oh, and any thoughts on this system?

http://www.amanatool.com/ingroove/index.htm

Weston this is dreadful stuff and can send you broke pretty darn quick. However there is at least one poster here who swears by them. Wonderful for wax moulds though.

[curtiss]

these are handy

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bushing_ball_bearings.html

a few extra PC collets help a lot if you have a PC router

[Chuck Keysor]

Hello Weston. As to the Amana In-Groove bits, if you do a search, you will find comments from users of these that have had TERRIBLE problems with the tips of the bits breaking off!

In my case, I had tip failure in cutting MDF, at only 1 to 2 inches per second. Every sharp tipped cutting blade broke with only tiny amounts of usage. I called the company I bought this set from to complain (politely), and they referred me to Amana. I called the number I was given, and was put on hold for so long, I just gave up and figured I'd get back to them later..... but I never did.

When I related my experience with the Amana In-Groove bits here on this forum, someone recommended the CMT 60degree "Laser bit". I bought a couple up front, and those have worked great for me, provide wonderful detail, and have never had their tips chip!

I would be interested in seeing some of the printing plates you make, and your results in printing. I took a printing class at my community college, before I had my Shopbot. I have wished I had it at that time!

Thanks, Chuck

[curtiss]

Not sure what size bits you are looking for

but visit a local cabinet shop or an engraving / trophy shop and they may know some places in Houston which have a lot of bits in stock.

[Chazz]

I found a 1/32 downcut bit for inlay work. I have not tried it out as of yet. It has a 1/8 shank; but I was able to get a 1/8 collet and it all seems to fit together. It only has about 1/4 of an inch of depth of cut. I am hoping that it will do nicely. I got it and four other small bits from http://www.stewmac.com/ and the collet from http://www.elairecorp.com/ -- and again, I have not tried them out.... life just got busy.... I should get to it this weekend.

[Roy Harding]

I just got a couple of these (http://www.precisebits.com/products/carbidebits/taperedcarve250b4f.asp) in a few days ago. I've only run one carving with it - but the 1/32" bit has impressed me so far.

[bleeth]

Here's another "go to" company for small bits:

http://bitsbits.com/

[zeykr]

For the kind of detail you are probably wanting, I'd be looking at engraving bits.

http://www.harveytool.com/SearchResult.aspx?Keywords=engraving%20bitt

[wespor]

As follow up, I've had some good and bad experience. Firstly, that 18° V-Groove bit I picked up from Amana was pretty incredible but it broke after about 4 hours worth of cutting. I ended up buying a 60° V bit from Rockler and it works well but it's definitely a little too wide. I think a middle ground will be perfect, a 30° or 45° is what I'm looking for now.

[Burkhardt]

I am using 30-degree V-bits a lot to cut the tool paths for my dovetail software. The best (and relatively inexpensive) I found are the 1/4" Kyocera bits (http://www.ebay.com/itm/151193063847). Nevertheless, any such bit will have a very slim and fragile tip and must be used with some care. Ripping the tip through hardwood at high speed will just break it. But I can do 1-1.5 ips at 18krpm in most wood without problem. A bigger diameter than 1/4" does not help you much with such a sharp angle because the flutes would become much longer than you could use.

Regarding the earlier mentioned CMT bits: since I got strange result with them, I measured the resulting groove angle on an optical comparator and did the same with other V-bits that I have. While most bits have some minor error, this is for all others less than 1 degree and for some barely measurable. However, the supposedly 60 degree CMT bit cuts a groove of only 55.5 degree included angle. Maybe I got a bad bit but find it unlikely. I may use it anyway and just create the appropriate tool in the database.

[wespor]

The best (and relatively inexpensive) I found are the 1/4" Kyocera bits (http://www.ebay.com/itm/151193063847).

Thanks, that looks good and it ships from a little town not far from me.

[curtiss]

Have not posted this in a while. AutoCAD is so handy...

[wespor]

Ohh that's helpful.

Has anyone stumbled onto a bit like these (http://www.amanatool.com/cncroutingdetails/45771-signmaking-engraving-bits.html) but cheaper? They are 30 bucks a pop and I can't really afford that, especially if will break or dull quickly but the shape seems to be perfect for what I want to do.

[scottp55]

Just got the 60 degree.Haven't used it yet, but it's onsrud.http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00746V5MA/ref=biss_dp_sa1