Desktop Jigging--Pics?

[scottp55]

I had a lot of pics of various Desktop jigs and table clamping that people were nice enough to send me back in the beginning, but alas most were on my old laptop that died. Mainly prototyping here so I need versatility for the entire cutting area, but the second Desktop up North will be production. How is your Desktop set up for clamping in general and/or specific jobs? What have you used you really like? Anyone set up easily referenced and removable X,Y fences to use the entire cutting area? More and more Desktops out there--How is yours set-up? I've got a couple of ideas and if it works I'll post-still screwing and wedging on the original mdf here. Thanks, scott

[adrianm]

This isn't on a desktop but I use these a lot and I don't see why it wouldn't work on the desktop.

The copper cap has a crocodile clip that connects to the Z plate and a routine zeroes the bit inside the cap with the correct offset to the corner of the actual jig.

[jerry_stanek]

How new was your laptop if it is new enough you could pull the drive and slave it to a desktop or your could get a external case to slave it and pull your files off.

[scottp55]

Laptop came new with the latest greatest OS "XP"! got it as a hand me down and only used it for surfing and e-mail. So infected at the last I wouldn't hook it up to ANYTHING. Didn't lose much-except for pics and links to pics of Desktop set-ups. Never backed it up, as I didn't want that backed up on my only external HD(design computer). Now have 2 externals(one design-one control) and they'll never meet. Thanks Adrian

[scottp55]

Searching some Junk drives and found these 2. First one is Coogara's with permission second was open source Google if I remember right(sorry I can't remember to credit). Neither does what I want exactly. Anybody drilled and tapped the aluminum frame(see a couple of wires on Y to watch out for, but not seeing Anything on X axis) and bolted something flush to aluminum extrusions that can in turn be drilled and tapped for adjustable wood X,Y fences?

[Brady Watson]

I had a lot of pics of various Desktop jigs and table clamping that people were nice enough to send me back in the beginning, but alas most were on my old laptop that died. Mainly prototyping here so I need versatility for the entire cutting area, but the second Desktop up North will be production. How is your Desktop set up for clamping in general and/or specific jobs? What have you used you really like? Anyone set up easily referenced and removable X,Y fences to use the entire cutting area? More and more Desktops out there--How is yours set-up? I've got a couple of ideas and if it works I'll post-still screwing and wedging on the original mdf here. Thanks, scott

Scott,
As you know, the biggest challenge we all face is answering the question, "How am I going to hold this stuff down?" Of course, each part is different - depending on material, shape and size of the parts.

The DT AL extrusion deck is pretty cool because it lets you move & cinch things down pretty easily. However, you lose that versatility if you - like most, want a spoilboard to protect those extrusions. The newer DTs come with an MDF spilboard with about 8 bolts that go into slotted holes (for about 1" of adjustment). This is great if you want to remove it for thicker materials or an indexer or other reason. However, you are pretty much limited to screws (which will get "wallerd out" after a few runs), tape or other options like cam clamps above the board.

One thing you can do is make a grid of holes to accept threaded inserts. You screw them in from the back of the spoilboard (get the low profile ones) and make sure your spoilboard is aligned to the X axis (longest) so that they are lined up for fences. As long as the insert isn't too long, you could still surface the spoilboard several times until you start getting close to the ends of the inserts. I have used threaded inserts in the past this way many times. You can get unequal length aluminum angle that you can slot on the Bot (or just drill by hand) for your fence. The unequal will give you a stubby fence and a longer leg for screwing down.

Along those same lines you could sink t-track below the spoilboard (so you have room to surface & to not run tool into them) - and then run whatever accessory fence or clamp you want. With either of these systems, it is certainly possible to add some pneumatic clamping cylinders (McMaster is good source) and have a slick little air clamp setup - which can be direct, cam or wedge style.

Then, depending on size of the parts (and thickness too) there is vacuum. You'd be surprised how well you can hold down parts of a reasonable size (say at least 3x5") with only your Fein vac. You can go a little smaller with a little pump that does 20 Hg" or more, but you have to limit leakage. Wood parts may leak too much depending on species.

My whole thing all along has been keeping the tool versatile. My situation is very different, because I never know what a customer will need cut from week to week. Each require different hold down methods - which could be screws, clamps, DS tape, vacuum or something else depending on what it is. Since you are doing production, careful evaluation of your parts and ease of use should be in order before you commit to anything on a permanent basis. You may also want to consider purpose-built jigs for each of the parts you are making, that could be added or removed to your table with some registration pins etc.

-B

[scottp55]

Thanks Brady, beginning to lean towards purpose oriented jigs with a slightly smaller spoilboard(in Y so it will slide in past right side gantry leg-T-nuts a Pain for me on the Y 18 side). A lot to consider---Hoping you had made a "Perfect" Universal Theory Jig we could copy:)

[Brady Watson]

Hoping you had made a "Perfect" Universal Theory Jig we could copy:)

That's unobtainium....:D

How about something like 4 or 5 t-tracks in parallel with Y that are bolted down to the existing t-slots. Then you can slide in your jigs from the front without the need to access the Y18 side?

-B

[scottp55]

Will think about while staining and assembling second "Maker Crate". Maybe seeing the Desktop from the back will make me think different. Never even SEEN the backside of mine! Lot of time to think about stuff while I watch the finish dry:) Hate to give up a millimeter of Z. Ted once asked me "Why don't you load from the back?" Duh! Hadn't even thought about it. Same with your track idea. Anything happening with your "Baby Blue"?

[Brady Watson]

Yeah...You get new ideas when you change your perspective :)

I did my first production job this week on it...Turned fifty 4-layer thick of 12" LPs into '45 adapter' shapes for some Indie Music Awards. It was interesting...

-B

[scottp55]

What bit/feeds/speeds for lp's was best? You always do off the wall stuff:) I was going to play with cd's at some point- but play time getting scarce:(

[bill.young]

hey Scott,

I've uploaded some pictures and VCarve files on box.net of the wedging top I made for my Desktop, that allows me to hold a 24x18 blank on all 4 sides. It uses 3/8" dowels and plywood bits and pieces, so there's no metal to worry about hitting.

https://app.box.com/wedging-top

Bill

[scottp55]

Thank you Bill,Going to unwrap second "Maker Crate" (the maple ply one) that arrived last Thusday, so Thank You twice:)

[bill.young]

I'm really looking forward to hearing how the crate works out for you as a desk/worktable...keep me in the loop!

[scottp55]

Limestone one works great, the BIG casters aren't on in the shop, but they'll be great at the show next month. Wish we didn't have to turn the crate sideways without the casters to get it out though:) Kirk's stain job on his makes it look like it's been there 10 years. Going out now for stain and hex head driver- looking forward to being able to move around whole machine and sliding feet under, instead of twisting like a pretzel. Will do on updates and pic's:)

[bill.young]

hey Scott,

You can use either a 4mm or 5/32" hex bit with those fasteners..they are almost identical in size.

[scottp55]

got 5/32 allen key to cut down as hardware was out
of hex head drivers(naturally), Cut packaging to find bolts to take with me. Wow you guys packed those puppies carefully! Going to do the dovetails rails Zar dark mahogany to cover the thin veneer problem on the corners TJ mentioned(Minor-we never would have noticed-You didn't have to make a second out of Radiata for the thicker veneer-but glad you did) as it gave you an extra box I could have. Got wheelchair parts last week from limestone.
Don't know why I thought Maple ply-When I unwrapped looks like very good quality birch. Got to much heart sapwood contrast for me to stain it(Hate stain anyway- the wood should speak for itself), so using a polymerized linseed/tung with maybe some pine resin to show off contrast. Cobalt blue on shopbot after sanding and then a coat of satin wiping Minwax or Deft Brushing laquer(never used either so do test piece- I'm NOT handrubbing the sucker for a month :) )
Should have put this in the "Maker Crate" thread :)
Will post pics and comments. Thanks Bill

[gsartor_1999]

Brady, what tool did you use to cut the LPs'? Would you do it again? Did you inscribe anything on them? Sounds like a cool result and an interesting challenge.

[bill.young]

Hey Gina,

Have you seen the cnc-cut LP art that Joe Szuecs who helps with Maker Faire does?

http://www.etsy.com/shop/rengaarts

Bill

[Brady Watson]

Bill,
Neat link.

Gina,
I just used a single flute spiral-O. I tried a 2-flute, but the single worked better. I'm a job shop - so I get all kinds of strange or out of the box projects. Yes I would do it again. :)

-B

[bob_dodd]

I cut the Wedging top that Bill Young Posted , as I needed to hold some .5" aluminum for my spindle mount for the DT ( made a temp one so I could use the DT ) as I had a spare spindle at the shop
Today I cut the parts for the mount , still need to drill and tap the parts
speed 1" per sec ,step .0025 with a 1/4" up cut bit

[scottp55]

Thanks for the pics Bob, Going Bill's top but with threaded inserts for cam clamps and fences, and job specific vac jig. Nice to see your set-up.:)

[tlempicke]

Here is a post I made earlier. This has turned out to be really useful. If something is rectangular or even nearly so I can clamp it up in seconds. You can find the photos in the original post "Cool clamping"

This setup was built for a special project that was using all 3/4 inch thick stock and generally rectangular. Since building it I have found that it is useful for whole lot of stuff. For instance on 1/4 inch thick stock I just use a piece of scrap between the clamps and the workpiece.

I found the clamps at Harbor Freight. They were a bit too long so I hacksawed about 8 inches out of each one. They dis-assemble and re-assemble pretty easily. I should have used thinner material for the base but I was hung up on buying just one sheet of plywood. The spoil board is just glued on to the base and gives about 1/4 inch above the clamps. They are screwed to the base with #6 counter sunk head screws and the clamps slide over them just fine.

I was using it with the two bumpers on the clamping end but I found out that a piece of 1x2 screwed to the board worked better. I have this one placed so that I can do a C3 and then move Y to 1.4. Do a z2 and I have the exact location of x and y where you would think it is. This was exact enough that I was able to do a number of pieces on both sides and have very good registration.

[bob_dodd]

Scott when you get yours done with the cam clamps , please post pic .

I needed to machine some holes in a pc 4 3/8" tall in the DT , I made a pocket in a jig that I could mount vertical off the edge of the table ( be careful there are moving parts down there ) This also gives me good registration of parts

[scottp55]

Bob, Is there much besides the Y gear in there, Haven't taken an extrusion off yet. How much clearance off X 12 is needed to clear"stuff"? Had considered a rabbeted base for a fence base bolted into frame members and then sliding "insert board" or vac jig up against fences. Got registration pins going on spoilboard I can't screw around with for another week. You're really moving right along! Keep up the good work.:)

[bob_dodd]

Scott the left side is clear , the jig you see is 10" wide X 4.5" deep , that is about what you can fit on that side , On the right side you have the flexible wire track

[scottp55]

Thanks Bob, got it. How close could you get to the top of the track with the bottom of the collet. First time I've ever seen pictures with the extrusion off, still working off the factory spoilboard.

[bob_dodd]

Scott right now collet nut to aluminum track about 1.5" , but I can slide the spindle up and down about 2" in the clamp mount if needed for clearance or to reach the job

[scottp55]

Bob, You freaked me out and I thought I was having a senior moment. Actually went into the shop to see if my housing was removable or something:) Then reread until I saw your spare spindle comment. You've got all KINDS of options! Nice. Thanks again.

[scottp55]

Added threaded inserts to Bill Y's wedging top so I can use Shopfox and other clamps. Also added counter bored insert holes in wedges and fences for allen head bolts or Adrians nylon head bolts so I can keep safe Z at .2"--If they work well, will recut in maple or BB ply. Will install today. Thanks all.

[bob_dodd]

Scott

The threaded inserts combine with the dowel set up great idea ,

[bill.young]

Great job Scott...like the inserts!

[scottp55]

Thanks Bob and Bill, Real test is can Scott get the T-nuts threaded:) I Had installed 100 non-flanged inserts thinking full MDF contact with T-track would be best, but changed design to in between EVERY dowel hole and ordered hex flanged by mistake. Yanked old ones thinking metal to metal contact every inch and a half might be better for warping and keep me from pulling insert out in case I get carried away with the wrench. Did sand EZ-locks with 80G with a large flat piece of maple to get it as flat as possible. We'll see how it works. TG for EZ-lock insert tool and the Bosch drill/driver clutch (not 1 stripped, but did have to run tap on several). Will post mod'd file after I've used it a few weeks if anybody is interested.

[scottp55]

First cut last night using Shopfox clamps-Neat! Glad Brady suggested the inserts. Dowels perfect for fence alignment and so snug you need a renovators prybar to get them off:)Bevelled bottom of fences after the first time I tried to get them off to give easier purchase.
BILL, I bought allen head 1/4X20's BUT the Maker Crate bolts are perfect length and you don't have to pocket as deep(.15" works perfect) and they give more surface area than the a standard washer. Where can I buy those Maker Crate bolts?

[scottp55]

Cutting #2, Tile 1 all done except for cut-out. Want to triple check before I unbolt, as I caught myself toolpathing as if Mother Nature made MDF :)
Heck of a lot easier making one for Kirks Desktop here on one already made:)
Anybody wants Bill Y's design with inserts, just e-mail me and after I clean up .crv a little I'll send it.

[scottp55]

Hi Bill, One of the problems with any design that is bigger than your cutting area is that when you surface the table-the edges are higher than the cutting area and any boards longer than 18-24" can't get flush with table.
Was talking with BobD(we're both using it), and he asked how I dealt with it(Very unscientific flush sanding in my case) and what I thought about making a pocket around the cutting area? I think it's a Great idea.
I just started with a .1" pocket as this ones going to Kirks Desktop and HAS to work right out of the gate. I think Bob's going to go an 1/8".
My inserts are still .15" below the surface of the border pocket so I CAN go deeper and may after I make another and try it for a few weeks.It also put's the 3/4" BBply fences BELOW almost any work surface we do--so no more Trimming my fences when I surface:)

[scottp55]

Thanks Bob!

[Steve Wonser]

Thanks Scott & Bill for sharing your spoil board design and most especially your experience. I know that I would have found out the hard way about the tiling issue.

[scottp55]

Still using that first spoilboard proto that didn't have the have the recess around the cutting area that later ones do(Thanks Bob D). Got tired of sanding the perimeter(inaccurate/ rounding issue), and using the 12"LA Jackplane(difficult from chair/ hard to me accurate).
Last surfacing left me .01" lower than perimeter, so stole a page from Kyle S's Shopbot modified version of Bill Young's original file with 1/4" MDF added to the cutting area. Only had 3/4" MDF. Surfaced using WHiteside 1.25" Mortising bit but lied to machine and called it .5"diameter(with 99% stepover) to give me a little clearance on the corners. Wanted to use TB2 but didn't want to coat both surfaces(because the existing dowel/insert holes were already drilled and didn't want "squeeze out" entering the holes), so I went with TB polyurethane liquid glue as it only calls for one surface to be coated and easy to get thin uniform layer on new MDF. DON'T put on too thick! Used a foam brush on mine and then a tongue depressor to squeegee excess off. Had an 1/8" bow in MDF, so put bow up(so X,0 and ,24 were tight), made sure I had 1/8" overlap at XY 0,0 (MDF was 24.25X18.25") and weighted center heavily.
Surfaced down to .31" the next morning (BB fences .69" and seems to clamp well, but can always surface lower easily).
Wanted to make sure nothing had shifted so pocketed out lower right bolt recess pocket first to get depth correct. Shocked to find out my very first tiling project had the T2 so far off:( Then did lower left 0,0 bolt recess and it was right on the money). Had to take all holes to the right of X16 and offset (X -.015 Y+ .07) and rotate 2degrees (rotation point at X,17 Y,18) to get dowel holes true (use bolt pockets as reference for offset as it's much easier to measure and not a very critical dimension).
Glad I used PU glue as when it did get into insert/dowel holes it "foamed" to a very less density. Tried using dental pics/curved mini-files , but small slot screwdriver wound up being the best to break free the foam dots and then 90 psi blew them out.
Before profiling holes out I put 2 thinned coats of Zinser sanding/sealer on MDF and got clean cuts(seemed to help a final .005" surfacing also).
Still have to grid, but works perfect.
So anybody using the recessed design--When you get down close to your inserts, try it with 1/4" MDF and we should be able to use the spoilboard for years:)
Oh, don't forget you may need next length up bolts for clamps/fixtures.
Hope it helps someone.
scott

[Steve Wonser]

Scott, thanks for posting this!

I saw your post in another thread where you mentioned that you added a new layer of MDF to your spoilboard. I wanted to ask how you handled the glue squeeze out, but didn't want to hijack that thread.

I have been babying my spoilboard, but I'm sure at some point I'll have to add a new layer on to mine. Now I'll know how to do it!

Thanks again!
Steve

[scottp55]

Sure is easier than driving 300+ inserts:)
Still planning on BB Ply in the future. Nice to know that might be the last time.
Does that Naptha/Linseed mix I recommended as similar to the Interlux Teak Oil(on Kirks) seem to keep MDF humidity swelling that I curse regularly, keep it down to a dull roar?
Gridding now, had High hopes for a downcut .125" Kyocera 90engraving but it cut worse than the upcut that's running now. Still want to try in a hardwood though.

[gpinard]

Hi Scott

Making a spoil board such as yours is near the top of the pile (as it has been for too long). I saw your post a while ago, noting that your working surface was nearly consumed. I was thinking about making mine with a replaceable working surface. So the ¾ base would have all the inserts, the space outside the 0,0 thru 18,24 working area would be the full ¾ thick and the working area would be lowered as much as possible without getting into the metal inserts 3/16 or a ¼”. The ¾ base would be bolted down onto the table on location and not unbolted. Then I was thinking about a ½” replaceable wearing surface 18 x24 that would set in the recess. the ½” could be bolted to the base piece for easy re-placement. What do you think?
Couple of questions about yours if I can, Did you recess on the bottom of the base to allow the flanges for the inserts to recess? If not was that a problem for sitting down on the table flat?
And you have kind of a double grid of holes in the working area, I think one is for the treaded inserts, and the other is for ½” dowels. Is that right? All your postings seem to be using the treaded inserts and cam clamping. The dowel grid being for a tapered wood wedge kind of clamping use? Which do you find more useful? How do you attach the fence? Is that wood dowel I see?

Thanks, Gene

[scottp55]

Gene, First of all I wouldn't use MDF again--too much movement with humidity, and it flexes too much(minute,but there) when clamping Hard.
Going BBPly on next one or something even more stable?
Perimeter is now at .69" thick(same as BB).
When I do it again, I'll leave full depth with no recessed perimeter(only because I've got 5.5" Z now and it would be stiffer). I'd make dead sure my Yfence was totally true and an accurate reference pin was in.
I like the idea of the recessed/replaceable cutting area but don't need every scrap of Z now so would just glue on the Actual spoilboard, but seem to remember you were 4"Z and staying that way.
Ordered flange style inserts by mistake, and not positive I would go that way again, but do like the idea that they semi-self center themselves when driving, that I won't pull them out, and gave me a little peace of mind when drilling out the new top that they would be within a hair of the same height. There's a lot of metal to metal contact and it seems VERY firm(I "lapped" the flanges with 220G stuck on an 18" piece of freshly 'Bot surfaced Maple), But think under REALLY tight wedging I'm seeing the MDF bow ever so slightly when my "anchor" falls midpoint between mounting bolts(more bolts?) but know that BB will help(and it may be my imagination--as I measured a couple times and couldn't see it).
Yes, .32" holes are inserts, and .375" holes are dowels. For in the cutting area/down and dirty cuts that aren't critical- dowels work fine by themselves. For S2S where surface is uneven and I find the wedges "lifting" the wood, I always use the eccentric triangles that have a bolt hole instead of dowel and it usually fixes it(also good for after repeated dowel use rounds a hole or deforms dowel). X,Y fences ALWAYS bolted at least every 6" because of the way I'm swapping out the button blanks instead of doing bit changes.
Love the Shopfoxes, but REALLY not very much throw. Top of my list I never get to is making some BB cam clamps with different throws. Prefer clamps to wedges(side note; made some cherry/maple scrap wedges, but they seem to loosen Way more than my BB ones. probably because the grain is multi direction).
Back to see if my "bot will behave now:)
scott

[scottp55]

Oh, Noticed this morning. Because the Shopfox(or anchors for wedging) bolts are .25" longer and I was only clamping this corner against the fences I Oomphed it and noticed the Shopfox slid back a hair. Released clamping pressure and reset/tightened mounting bolt. No big deal, as it's still flat, but next time I would use circle resize gadget and resize insert hole to say .26-.28" on the glued layer to help keep bolt at 90 degrees. It probably doesn't help the insert stay firmly in the MDF either being forced back and forth. I couldn't do for my whole board as everything X,16+ is offset/skewed due to first Tiling job was mucked up, but can do in the more critical 16,18 area.
Next one I also may do 2 toolpaths for the inserts, one for best insert holding diameter(.55" deep), and a second full depth at the .26-.28" Diameter(Just change offset allowance in the toolpath). No reason for the entire hole to be .32"Diameter(seemed best for this cheap MDF).
Still workable, but definitely thinking by adding a sacrificial layer it can last years, so keep your tiling accurate:)
scott

[Steve Wonser]

Scott, I live in Southern California where it is pretty dry all year long so I can't really comment on the affect of the Naptha/Linseed mix as far as humidity goes. However, I can say that it did make the top really smooth after I resurfaced it. It didn't have the fuzziness left like it did when I cut the recess around the perimeter of the spoilboard with untreated MDF.

On the downside, it took more than a week for it to dry out after the Naptha/Linseed oil bath. I'm happy that I did it though.

[kark]

Question - I am a new Desktop owner.. I would like to make a wedging top (Bill's Design) as shown.

https://app.box.com/wedging-top

How do I cut a top that is larger than the 24"x18" cutting area of the shopbot desktop?
am I missing something obvious?

Have you improved the design? It looks like it works well.
thanks
Vera

[srwtlc]

...am I missing something obvious?

Perhaps you're missing a table saw, circular saw, jig saw, or one of those that you operate by hand. ;)

[scottp55]

Have to get back to you tomorrow Vera:(
Have a busy day today and a lot to talk about.
Bill's wedging top as shown works pretty good, but adding the threaded inserts really made it work better!!
Got 6 good years out of it even though untreated big box store Cheapo MDF original is the one I still have.
Cheapo MDF substrate finally delamed, and making Maple inserts to epoxy in to beef it up for the connection bolts.

Basic question is you use the Tiling Feature in VCP to split the toolpaths so you can run the oversized substrate through the Y axis.
DID make improvements on Spoilboard 2&3, and a friend made a really nice one using HDO as a substrate and then .25" MDF as the replaceable surface.
I've now glued on 4 pieces of MDF over 6 yrs, and the substrate original was still going strong until April, when Winter tightened bolts, got expose to Spring humidity...
And the swelling was just to great for my 0,0 corner MDF.

You're welcome to my file if you email me(address is in my contact info), but I have to change the depth of the bolt pocket to leave more meat when I do my HDO one.
Be glad to answer any questions also.
I WAS going to take pics that explained the problem and repost....I better get too it:)
scott

[scottp55]

Whole HECK of a lot easier doing it on the Desktop Scott:) :)

[scottp55]

Vera,
Just noticed that was your first post and you just joined Forum.....so first thing is WELCOME!! :)
IF you haven't already, I'd join the Vectric Forum for VERY helpful people to help with software issues! A Great group of people!

How long have you had your machine.....and is it your first?
Just asking as the file relies heavily on Layers, and holes are all "Drilled" using 1 bit and the Profile Inside Line with a Spiral Ramp.
IF like I was when I made my first one, my bit selection was just the "Starter Set of 7".
Location? IF CA then I've heard MDF is mainly Medex (Lousy dust, BUT a better substrate than I used!)?
I'm not fully caffeinated...and pulling almost an all-nighter for first time in Months! So excuse rambling:)
Again Welcome Vera! (and got your email....pics really do help understand it)
scott

p.s. srwtlc (Scott W.) was thinking the "Basic Deck"...He's a great Mentor(but must have been in a Snarky mood:)

[scottp55]

Oh Vera,
I forgot to ask what version of VCP (Aspire?) you're running:(
Don't want to have it automatically open in VCP10.05 as it's not backwardly compatible with earlier versions!
I have VCP8.5** Shopbot Edition/ VCP9.5** Shopbot Edition/ and Full VCP 10.***.
scott

[kark]

Thanks for the welcome.
I have used different shopbots at TechShop (makerspace) before they went out of business..
Vcarve desktop 10.5 - I've had it for a while working with an Othermill (Bantam Tools) small CNC.
So many layers etc are okay. I've been looking into tiling jobs..
so that's how I'll be setting things up.
I appreciate the help
Vera

[srwtlc]

:p Scott, yup, full of my mornin' coffee and feelin' a bit snarky, but the question was "how to cut a top that is larger than what will fit on the Desktop". So, the first thing that came to mind was all the other tools in the shop that could do it and then finish the rest on the bot. :D

[scottp55]

:D Yep Oh Great Obiwan:)
That's why I swap from Sumatran Espresso to De-Snarkified at Noon!
I can see your point though!
scott

Vera,
Then you are WAY ahead of me starting from scratch with NO experience in modern CNC or CAD/CAM drawing!
Sorry for delay...Had to setup the Win7 have as "ready to swap" for my control computer to find versions in VCP9.5 for a friend who just asked for the files as well.
"Killing 2 birds with one stone" took longer than expected.
Almost ashamed to send the 2014 files as they are NOT layered as I thought:( Circle re-size Gadget will be easiest way to group the different size holes and then Layer.
BUT will give you a decent idea of it.
Bill's Dowels are designed so when placing in the middle of the field, workpiece winds up on an even inch placement...so easy to do Temporary Zeros.
BUT a few people who did JUST dowels, found the dowels and MDF holes deformed fairly rapidly...and caused material to lift and loosen.
By adding EZInserts, you have quick placement with the dowels, and then using furniture connection bolts to tighten down...they ain't going Nowhere!
(I STILL have to use a renovators prybar to loosen up the larger fences as dowels are Still Snug)

On the "Fences and Wedges" file you'll be getting...use the "As Cut" ones out in No Mans Land and just copy/paste them into the cutting area as needed, and then nest.
PITA to initially build,BUT I haven't had to screw anything down in years!
Made production for us MUCH easier....and my Desktop friend in VA business now has a 3 week lead time even though he can pump out his cedar RV signs on his Desktop....
at 3-6 signs a day with this set-up vs. 2 a day MAX beforehand with screws/counterboring and surfacing the rough stock and then carving both sides.

You should be receiving those file today,IF I can get them on thumbdrive and email them before the phone/internet repair guy shows up at 9(NO phone/Internet SLOW).
Re-read this whole thread and I pretty much did a step by step.
Like I said ... embarrassed at 6 yr old files!
I'll be emailing links for the inserts and Shopfox clamps...and also answer any questions you may have.
HIGHLY recommend FLOODING the spoilboard after cutting with a sealer(I used Naptha/Oil Teak Oil (Interlux) for penetration on my second and third ones...
mine was uncoated and acted like a humidity sponge!!)
scott
(I better BOOK if I want to beat phone repair guy! Also expecting 50-60mph winds from Isaias...so in a HIGH risk power outage area on the coast)

[scottp55]

They're sent Vera:)

[scottp55]

In March I glued another piece of 3/4" MDF to the raised cutting area(for the third time in 6 yrs), and I always mill it down to about .3" so the BB Ply fences have a decent grip.
This is my original Mark 1 cheapo MDF spoilboard I first posted, and never did saturate the entire thing on both sides with oil/naptha to firm MDF up :(

This time I got it down to .3" and then gave it a 50/50 oil/citrus thinner, as that big box store MDF is like cardboard in the middle!
It had just been skimmed the day before, and on a .005" skim, the 0,0 corner cut about .015"??????
Thought a bolt was loose even though I had checked them when I glued the layer of MDF down....tightened the down Firmly.
Skimmed it...and the darn 0,0 corner was STILL high???

Took the whole spoilboard off after inspecting it with a flashlight and a shim gauge.
All the bolt holes to the aluminum decking were deformed on the bottom!
I had used the "Standard Deck" file to cut the bolt pockets....Shopbot had those bolt pockets cut pretty deep to maximize how many skimmings you'd get out of 1 board.
And between me using the "flanged" inserts(held MDF about 1/16" high off decking), and then the bottom not being sealed, and the top over 6 yrs had been coated many times...
It just started separating the MDF:(

I was tempted to just toss it back on, and cut a brand new one out of HDO piece I saved just for that....but didn't want the corner to lift on HDO!
So eventually cut .3" Sugar Maple inserts to tight fit, then bedded the Maple inserts with 2 ton epoxy.
Chiselled off the deformed sections.....coated the WHOLE board with 3 coats oil/thinner...and a week later installed and registered the cutting area and fences.

Lesson learned.....with the raised cutting area and cheap MDF....those oval bolt recesses only need to be about 3/8" deep.
One of first projects will be to cut the HDO, and SEAL edges and holes!
Just thought I'd mention it.
The second and third ones I did were saturated with oil all over, and still going strong.

On HDO board, I'll use the non-flanged EZ inserts, and drive them down from top surface so they catch threads sooner..and then epoxy on the raised cutting area MDF.
6 yrs wasn't bad for this first prototype:)
scott

[kark]

Finally!
As a new Shopbot owner I have lots to learn..
Thanks to Scott P. and his files my shopbot has a great holding jig set up - and it works well!
Big thanks and happy holidays
Vera
34263 34262

[scottp55]

Looks like you owe more to Bill Young than me Vera:)
Had a lot of open tabs on threaded inserts and the advantages, but power outage and Christmas deadlines(and being lazy) lost them and didn't repost.
Will elucidate more on inserts, as Kyle Stapleton(teacher) had problems with just dowels.
Deformation of dowels and holes fairly quickly made all 90 degree wedges lift material or loosen while cutting(vibration and cutting force) if I remember right.

Will add a fair amount more and how to mod your spoilboard after deadlines are done.
Inserts make a Lot of difference....and you can still do:)

Enjoy your holidays Vera!! :) :)
Thank you!
scott

JUST got 400 inserts and one Winter project is to make a better HDO spoilboard substrate, with epoxied MDF cutting area to avoid my perpetual humidity change issues.