Drawer making excel to Vectric

[ken_rychlik]

I made an excel spreadsheet that when you export the info in the csv (comma delimited) format, it can be imported into the vectric programs with a gadget. Paul Rountree created the gadget. I'm looking for a few folks to try it out. I have everything in a zip file along with instructions. I want to see if it is workable for another person to figure out based on my instruction sheet.
This is just a simple rabbet construction drawer with notches for blum undermount slides.
You can change settings of material thickness, dado depth, drawer bottom inset, notch height and width, ect...
Here is a picture of what is imports into the vectric file.
pm me your email address if you would like to test it for me.
This concept also works for designing cabinets, but I have not put a lot of time into that side of it. I just had a void in my program where drawers were concerned and that is why I created this. If anyone wants to take the idea and run with it, it can be an open source cabinet program.
It does not nest or toolpath. It just creates the parts quickly and easily. You have to nest and toolpath on your own.

[ken_rychlik]

One issue so far is the the gadget will not work with older versions of aspire or vcarve. Vcarve 7 and aspire 4.0 work fine. I have a few people playing with it. Thanks

[dlcw]

Kenneth

I would be interested in trying it out. I do a LOT of drawers for kitchens and baths. Currently use eCabinets but would love to be able to cut drawer parts with something other then SBLink.

Thanks!

[ken_rychlik]

Don, if you have excel and the latest version of aspire or vcarve send pm me your email address. I have gotten to where I use a pretty deep side dado on 3/4 inch material to allow me to run screws through the front and back that go in the sides. Very strong and very fast.

[bob_s]

Ken
I have been using this joint for my own kitchen drawer boxes. It can be cut from the top out of 1/2" Baltic birch. It has a bit of the "dovetail look" without the complex cutting I used the same 1/2" for the bottoms because we load the drawers with a lot of weight. I use a 5/32 bit to keep the inside corners nice and sharp, and avoid bit changes. I do have to clean out the inside of the joint with one quick pass with a rasp, but they assemble quickly with just a few clamps. If the file helps please feel free to use it or take the idea and run with it. It might make a great combo with the Excel spreadsheet idea as i have to make the changes by hand for different drawer sizes

Bob

[ken_rychlik]

Thanks Bob,

I don't see the reason to stop the dado or rabbet. I let it extend out the top of the drawer and do the same on my cabinets. With prefinishded plywood, doing a joint any other way leaves unfinished exposed ends.

If you want to build a spreadsheet for your style, I would be happy to explain it to you. It takes a lot of time up front, but then with a few clicks you are cutting.

[ken_rychlik]

Mine look like this.

[jTr]

OK - since we're on the subject of drawers - do you use the 'bot to cut under mount slide's required holes and notches at the back, or have you an off the cnc method you wouldn't mind sharing?

Hand drilling and notching is something I'd like to at least partially automate. Dado blade on table saw is ok, but typically need two passes to clear for Hettich Quadro's, so when doing just 6-10 drawers I'll simply process with hand tools.

Thanks to all for sharing, as I'm looking for improvements to my current methods!

Jeff

[bob_s]

Jeff
Take a look at the file I posted and you can see the hole and the notch in the back part. These are for undermount drawer slides from Hettich that I used, others may require a small adjustment. It's one of the real advantages to doing them on the cnc

[ken_rychlik]

Mine cut the notches automatically, but the back holes are machined from the other side so I just use a little drilling jig. look at my first post here and you can see the notches.

[dlcw]

I cut all my notches and punch holes above the notches for undermount slides and I punch all the holes for mounting the drawer fronts to the boxes.

[jTr]

Wow - guess I was asleep when I first read these!:o

Thanks Bob - I'm going to try this one out.

My current routine is focused on ripping and grooving Russian Birch on the bot in 60" strips so I can get finish on them. I simply mitre cut the strips to size after finishing, lay flat, tape the corner joints, then fold around pre-finished .25 maple ply bottoms, having applied glue in the mitre folds and grooves. Pop nails in all 4 corners and they're done - very fast, and mitred corners show nicely. For larger drawers and heavy weight loads, a 2.5" strip of 12mm birch is used to reinforce the bottom.

A very unusual way to build a drawer, but tried it after building some 1.5" mod furniture with the same method, and was stunned at the strength of it. Key here is the surface area of glue in the corners plus the mechanical stitching the nails provide, though I've always considered the look of the nails a compromise aesthetically.

Have built hundreds this way for years, no failures. Efficiency of the process is now suffering with notching and holes required for soft close under mount slides. Seems they are no longer an upgrade but expected by even the lowest budget consumers these days.

For the highest-end, I've switched to dovetailing using Gary Campbell's web article and files to run them with the described PC style jig on the end of the 'bot. Quite an awesome way to cut dovetails.

Jeff