Buddy 32

[Bud Love]

Does a Buddy cut a full 32 x 24?
I am only getting 27 x 24.
What is going on?

[dana_swift]

Check your hard stops and your prox switch bolt positions. Is it limited by the prox switches? (if so move the bolts so they trigger about 1/4" from the wall).

I had to "tweak" on my buddy "as delivered" to get the full motion out of it. My BT-32 is a first generation machine so my experience may be different than yours. Dont feel like you are stuck with the initial setup, tweak one thing at a time as you are comfortable with the machine.

Most likely you will get closer to 36" x 25" of real cut area center line. Then with a 1/2" bit you would still be able to meet the factory cutting area specification. I would love to hear from someone with a modern BT-32 to confirm that its still true with the current generation of machines.

D

[Ajcoholic]

With my BT 48. I can cut out fully, 24" by 48" with the stock table - and 48" by 48" with the 6' powerstick.

I just cut out some 48" rounds - no issues. I believe in the specs your cut area is actually 1" larger than the 24x36/48 nominal size.

[Bob Eustace]

Bud, Andrew is spot on it does cut bigger but like Dana we initially moved the stops.

[Bud Love]

Thanks guys.
I will go to work on these items...

[Ajcoholic]

Just to make a comment - I didnt touch anything re my stops/limits etc they are as set up at the factory.

[dana_swift]

On the Z car.. I removed the hard stops completely, the gantry ends ARE hard stops, that is the real "limit". Why have another hard stop before that? (One I simply moved so it is does not hit before the wall, the other one was removed)

Then I put the horizontal prox switch bolt heads so they correlate to just about a 1/2" away from the wall on the Z car side-to-side motion. On the normal 2' old-style table, I removed the prox bolt completely because I occasionally was hitting it "too soon", the one at the "home" end of the table motion is there and works great. It triggers about 1/2" away from the edge of the table, so thats just right for how I want it to work.

Andrew- good to hear you got everything correct out of the box. I set up a modern BT-48, and I had to adjust the stops on it, just like I did my older version.

One thing I have learned, if SB makes a claim, and an individual machine seems to not live up to specs.. something is wrong with the machine. These things "can" work as advertised.

Learning that things like stops and prox switch setups are not cast into stone opens the door to the incredible flexibility of the bot world!

Bud- keep us posted on how it comes out :)

D

[Simops]

Learning that things like stops and prox switch setups are not cast into stone opens the door to the incredible flexibility of the bot world!
D

Yes, amen to that......I wanted to flip my X and Y axii on my Buddy and thanks to the info supplied by Dana and Brady it was a simple thing to do.....now the table is in the right orientation for my setup and makes sense to me......

Cheers

[Bud Love]

Got it cutting the complete 2432.
Had to adjust rollers and a couple of other tweaks.
Doing is NOT the same thing as working the tutorials, but they sure did help.
Learning one day at a time and smiling my way through it.
Decided to do repetitions of the small things first and then go bigger as the learning curve grows.

I may want to change the XY axis. Is it as simple as changing values in VI?

[scottp55]

You really got to watch out for those Z decimal points! Tricky little suckers like their cousins "screws". What's that old saying "Preview Thrice for Nice"?:)

[Simops]

I may want to change the XY axis. Is it as simple as changing values in VI?

See this thread.....http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16381&highlight=Reverse

Basically yes the VI and swap the prox signal wires on the board......it's actually quite easy to do. I also had to re-position the prox switch on the gantry (now the X) further left to align it to my new home 0,0

Cheers