new guy, new project , needs opion

[POPS 64]

I've started making cribbage boards, my question is I've been taking the bit and having it touch down and leave all the marks that need to be drilled at the drill press. Question is can I put the 1/8" drill in the router and let the bot do the work ? If so what type drill bit is best suited and what speed should the router be set at.

[bob_reda]

I just use an 1/8" em to drill them

[scottp55]

Jeff, We have 2 different pegs we use that fit differently, so we need 2 different diameter holes and depths. I draw the crib boards as .125" holes and then using a 7/64" 2F endmill use a profile toolpath-inside the line-with an offset and spiral ramping to get our two diameters(much faster than peck drilling). We run an 1/4" 82degree countersink afterwards.
I wouldn't use a drill bit as rpm's are too high, but I've seen people peck drill with a 1/8" end mill designed for plunging, and even one person(Ron?) who uses a tapered 1/8" ballnose and the said they liked the results. I just use my method as there are many opinions on drilling and the stress on spindle bearings, and the method I use MAY put less stress on the spindle as its basically doing a ramped pocket. My 2 cents

[ssflyer]

Yep, that was me that used the 1/8" tapered ball for my cribbage holes. Fit the pegs I had perfectly, and I like the snug fit the taper gave.

[scottp55]

Ron, what depth did you do your holes--- .25"? We have peg storage problem with deeper holes than that showing through. We also countersink .03" which adds to our depth---Do you countersink, and if so how deep? Our problem doesn't show up till .3" depth on our .75" boards. Thought it was you:)

[ssflyer]

Scott,

I'm not home at the moment. I'll have to check, and let you know!

[scottp55]

Thanks Ron, no big hoo-hoo. I don't have tapered 1/8"BN and was just wondering. Playing with G's code:) anyways. Spilled coffee on keyboard yesterday--just discovered Z,X,C keys don't work(good thing I don't take sugar). Makes life interesting:)

[POPS 64]

Thanks guys helpful hints, think I'll try the em and the bn bits . Scott appreciate the input but what you described is a little advanced for me . I pretty much stick with factory settings on all bits and tool paths . I've only experimented with changes on photo v carve when I do lithophane's. And then I had a guide helping on the phone. thanks again

[scottp55]

Jeff, Try a couple different size holes. start .125" .25" deep. Use a bit 50-80% diameter of your hole. select holes and using a profile toolpath-select inside line. Go further down and select Ramp-add ramps and under type-select "spiral". watch preview at slowest setting and look at 3D toolpath preview. Comes in very handy for lots of stuff. Only do a couple of holes and then make sure bit is at room temp. if you are conservative on feeds it will get hot and you'll have to increase feedrate or decrease rpm. make sure you're getting chips not sawdust.
Factory defaults seem fast to me as usually cutting hardwoods(a lot of sugar maple).

[POPS 64]

Thanks Scott I'll try that this week when I'am caught up from fathers day projects and let ya know how I did.

[scottp55]

Good Jeff. Like I said, it comes in handy. Just did Bill Youngs wedging spoilboard but added threaded inserts so I had 600+ holes in 3/4"MDF and had to tweak the insert holes. did all with a 1/4"up--It would have been a PITA to get the exact diameter bit for the dowel and insert holes:)

[scottp55]

Oh. Ron, did you peck--or do it in one shot? Good excuse to buy a tapered 1/8". Thanks

[ssflyer]

Scott - just got back. I drilled the holes 0.4" deep, single plunge w/o problems. The bit never got very hot.

The thing I liked about the tapered bn, is that since the pegs are tapered too, they fit no matter how deep you go. Poor man's morse taper :D

[scottp55]

Thanks for taking the time Ron. Too deep for our set-up. Got our holes just right diameter for a .25" depth hole with 82 degree countersink. Will keep in mind and try with a different design later.