horizontal keyholes-Notched

[scottp55]

Been Putzing with one horizontal keyhole pattern with notches to keep it from sliding that can be used with any of the horizontal proto's I've been playing with that need or would be nice to hang.
Don't want to get started here as it's all posted on Vectric forum.
http://forum.vectric.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=20129

Just a few pics to explain. Main trick seemed to be NOT to run an 1/8" EM to eliminate waste in slot. Will post .crv on Vectric after a couple more species and MC's and trying different screws on a wall.

[gundog]

Have you tried using air to help get the wood chips out while you are cutting? I added an air nozzle to my old PRS for cutting dovetail slots in plastic and it made a huge difference.

I used an inexpensive line lock nozzle from Enco that came with a ball valve and just aimed the nozzle at the bit.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=866&PMCTLG=00

Mike

[scottp55]

Thanks Michael, Bookmarked. Haven't tried any air yet, Need to get some overhead air as cords and hoses really trip up the wheelchair(usually with a finished piece or a cup of coffee in my lap). Been cutting keyholes with a 3/8" ball end plunge as it was already in the toolpath anyways for a vertical, but now making blanks for many things and prefinishing, but we never know what the customer wants carved so looking at a 1 size fits most and just plunking a template at midpoint seemed best.
Will buy one and try(need more air on the Delta 18"VS scroll saw cuts anyways), thanks again.
Who makes a high quality 3/8"key keyhole bit suitable for production? Bit's warmer than I would like,but I can still keep my finger on it(I run the ball plunge 4 times faster and get a better cut-wierd).

[scottp55]

Oh. Only using a cheapy Rockler 3/8" 1/4" shank because it was the only brand new one I had in the right size.

[srwtlc]

Scott, is that bit a single flute or double flute? I find that the 1/2" shank double flute ones work better and last longer. This is my preferred one (http://www.acetoolonline.com/Cmt-850-501-11-Keyhole-Bit-p/cmt-850.501.11.htm?utm_content=Cmt85050111KeyholeBit&gclid=CMz9ofiTsb8CFVEYMgod3kYAlQ&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=Cmt85050111KeyholeBit&utm_campaign=googlebase&site=google_product_listing_ads).

Something you could try would be to make the 'sawtooth' path be wavy (cut the entry/wavy first, backtrack to clean out some and climb cut the straight and back). This might allow for a bit tighter horizontal adjustment and possibly be easier to move from one to the other. Just a thought.

[scottp55]

Scott, Bookmarked and not much more-Thanks. It's a double flute. Just about dialed in and I know Kirk has same bit so I'll finish up. "Wavy" is an idea I'll play with once I get this to work consistently for his 3 production woods.
Just discovered WD-40 AIN'T Boeshield or even TopCote! Jointer got tucked into corner when 'Bot arrived and I had oilstoned it and the WD'd to clean up and then 'Bot arrived and I forgot and it got covered with the packing material. Just went to use it and RUST! Then took LH table extension for unisaw down from shelf where it's been since I replaced it with the sliding table 10 yrs ago(using it on right side of my box:)) and it WAS Boeshielded and all I have to do is buff it off!
Rambling-Time to go get rusty:(
You thinking "sine wave" like curve, or zig-zag that the bit will radius?
Thanks

[curtiss]

For most wall hangings one can cut a 1 to 2 inch horizontal key hole slot where you can just slide the item sideways on the wall until it is level. No notches really needed.

You have to move a keyhole bit slowly as it removes a lot of material / say about .2 inches per second.

Too fast and you head back to the store... Two flutes are nice for these.

http://www.homedepot.com/s/keyhole%2520router%2520bit?NCNI-5

[dlcw]

I cut thousands of keyhole slots in 1/2" MDF every year. I use a Rockler 3/8" slot cutter. Spindle 10K RPM, feedrate 1ips. Never had a bit break.

I use Aspire to layout the slots vertically in the plaques I cut for a sports company so they are perfectly parallel. They run 1" in length.

Very simple layout. I make a line 1" long, stop the line, start a new line at the stop point of the previous line, draw the second line 1" back to the starting point of the first line. Setup a profile tool path specifying ON the line. Plunge .375" move the 1" then move back along the same line and exit out of the slot. If for some reason your slot is upside down, check the "Use vector start points (don't optimize).

[scottp55]

Thanks Curtis, got down to .2 on the oak/maple, cherry/walnut liked .3, pine and cedar left it at .4.
Piece shown was made as a favor for a lady I knew and her boyfriend was Just starting AA and was supposed to get a small pebble for each of the 12 steps, so I had no idea where center was going to be as I was going to carve niches on the back as he got them. He got Drunk-They Split-I have the piece:)
Did have it hanging, but in first week of people touching it met my concrete floor.
Put small notches in with triangular file-re hung- same thing happened again(Thank goodness oil finish)- it now had 2 major dingus's in it, so it's been living on a Rosewood bench at an angle so people can SEE it will move.
I started putting DEEP notches in with triangular/round files, but that's a lot of work for production. Sooo as long as keyhole is in there.....What the heck:)

[scottp55]

Hey Don, Yep, that's how we've been doing our verticals, but with a plunge ball end at .8,.3,15K seeing as it's already chucked and they are all identical as far as clearing cuts and depths. Each crib board has 4 keyhole type toolpaths so we run 16 at a time if running this model. Only way to do it with all the angles and so many. Thanks Adrian.:)

[scottp55]

Still posting on that first Vectric thread. Just put first coat of finish on. It even kinda/sorta looks like a key :)