I think I ruined my Maple Countertop :(

[pkirby]

So I finally started to apply a finish to my hard maple counter for my kitchen island. I applied Waterlox to the bottom side first to "test" it out and I don't really like it because it has too much of an amber color, and I would like something more clear for the top side. But then I noticed that the waterlox had bled thru to the endgrain on the edges:mad: So I guess I'm screwed at this point or is there somthing I can do to get rid of the dark spots where it bled thru?
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[scottp55]

Paul, Not sure about Waterlox, but if it happened to me with Tung/Linseed/or Watco I would saturate multiple times with a solvent as soon as possible and then wick it out as much as possible with clean rags or paper towels and flood again and again to thin it down. Angle the piece so none gets on top--It won't totally eliminate it but will help and what it doesn't get will blend in a little.
Most finishes darken end grain a bit anyway, so maybe your choice of final finish depending on how it drys can blend it even more. For the above finishes I'd probably use a fast drying solvent like Naptha or citrus solvent, but look at Waterlox can to find out what they use as solvent. The quicker the better.
Hope it helps or others have better suggestions.

[bleeth]

Waterlox Tung Oil?
You should be able to leach it out with Acetone.

[garyr6]

yep, I would try acetone. lots of air, windows open , mask on.

[pkirby]

It's the Waterlox Original Tung Oil and unfortunately the acetone didn't remove it. So it looks like I'll be stuck with using Waterlox on the top side and hopefully the spots that leeched thru won't be that noticeable. My main complaint with the waterlox was that it had an amber tint. Do you think if I add some blue transtint dye that it will help neutralize the amber tint?

[steve_g]

“blue transtint dye”
Like the “Bluing” elderly ladies used to treat their yellowing hair… Try it on a scrap. I’d like to know how it turns out!
SG

[bleeth]

Paul:
I've removed mutiple layers of old dried in the sun teak oil and dirt from teak with a thick slurry using Tide and TSP as the base, adding a bit of clorox, and a scrub brush. You might try that. Basically you need to soften up the oil on the surface and then clean, bleach it.
You also might try wood bleach (Oxalic acid) available at Rockler I would imagine.

[scottp55]

If you try Oxalic, make sure you either neutralize(they sell bleach neutralizer) afterwards or flush with plenty of water to dilute, as with maple(and other woods that aren't oily also I imagine-ask how I know) if left in the wood, it can punk it pretty bad.
Dave, been a while since I mixed up a bunch of crystals to attack grey and/or gummed up teak with a bristle brush---You actually sound like you know boats! :) :)

[pkirby]

“blue transtint dye”
Like the “Bluing” elderly ladies used to treat their yellowing hair… Try it on a scrap. I’d like to know how it turns out!
SG

Yep, that blue. I know that when using paint, if you choose two colors that are opposite of each other on the color wheel, then they will neutralize each other. So I was hoping I could neutralize the amber tint by adding some blue. If this doesn't work, then I'll try the Tide & TSP cleaner. Thanks for all the help

[bleeth]

Paid for my daily rice bowl building/re-modeling/repairing them for 30 years. All shapes/all sizes!

[Burkhardt]

Yep, that blue. I know that when using paint, if you choose two colors that are opposite of each other on the color wheel, then they will neutralize each other. So I was hoping I could neutralize the amber tint by adding some blue. If this doesn't work, then I'll try the Tide & TSP cleaner. Thanks for all the help

I would be careful with that idea. The neutralizing to
"remove" color and lighten the hue works in additive mode with colored light but neutralizing with dyes and pigments is subtractive and will make it darker, i.e. greyish.
If you soak the entire surface with that Waterlox oil but wipe off all excess, maybe even with solvent, you may get better results. I would believe the amber will show mainly when you leave a film.

[jTr]

Paul,
I like the way you think - Trans tints are fabulous, but one thing they do not get along with is oils. Check the label - If it says clean up with mineral spirits, chances are the dye will not mix properly - no need to create more challenges.

Try the other clean ups recommended. Worst case, trim 1/32 off those ends and re-profile and sand if you can. You may have a few pores darkened, but that occurs in the tree regularly, and you will likely be surprised how this will turn out just fine in the end.

You've made a gorgeous maple top - a little more TLC and elbow grease, and you'll have it.

jeff

[kubotaman]

Paul, hard to believe that Acetone didn't cut what you wanted. I just used it on some heavy "sap" coming thru on my fir cabinets that I wasn'r able to finish. Since the sap had bled thru I couldn't remove it but acetone made it a simple task. I found the trick is to use it liberally. It dries quite fast so keep the surface wet and I just used paper towels. Everything turned out excellent and no staining occurred!! Good luck.