New (?) Glue Types

[Burkhardt]

I my quest for easier joint assemblies I ran across 2 new to me glues which look promising. But I have not seen any comments on woodworking sites. That may be a bad sign but I have not even seen negative comments. So far I used mostly Titebond (unfortunately runny and hate the yellow or brown color of II and III) or Weldbond (clear and thick but smears when sanding).

I found:

- Titebond translucent (http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id=e06720fc-44f9-42b2-8c5c-77e7d85cf624). I did a quick test and it seems to be about as strong as the other Titebonds and not very visible but still runny.

- Loctite Go2. (http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/go2_glue/overview/Go2-Glue.htm) Quite viscous and glass clear, can be repositioned within a few minutes. Cures to a hard clear rubber within a few hours. Described as a hybrid PU and Polysiloxane glue (not a CA superglue). It comes in a smaller bottle and is more expensive than the usual Titebond varieties.

Does anybody have experience or recommendation for either type of glue?

[Kyle Stapleton]

Can't go wrong with Titebond 1,2 or 3.
3 is runny but just take a little putting it on and do not try to remove it until it turns to a rubber feel.

Just saw 3M make wood glue but have never used it.

[steve_g]

Gert…
I used the Loctite Go2 to glue bark back on a live edge box… The glue worked fantastic but subsequent coats of lacquer did not bond to any glue that was exposed.
SG

[markevans]

I use a lot of tight bond with good results but want to try some of the Super glues for wood. Sure could speed things up if they work well.

[Ger21]

Of the standard Titebond type glues, my preference is original Titebond. Just wipe off the excess with a damp rag, and you don't have.

For really tight fitting joints, I also like Gorilla glue (or any other polyurethane). It acts as a lubricant, and makes tight joints easier to assemble. The foam squeezout is easily sanded off. It also gives you a little longer working time.

If you have gaps in your joints, mix some of the sawdust with polyurethane glue and use it as a filler before the joint sets up. Makes for a nearly invisible filler.

[waterwheelman]

I use the Fastcap 2P-10 glue for gluing magnets into the edge of the cribbage boards I make. It also works well for gluing joints on older furniture we repair.

[Red F]

If you want a non waterbased glue with a lot of open work time, look up unibond.

https://www.vacupress.com/veneerglue.htm

It's a urea formaldehyde glue that won't make the wood swell, and lubricates the joint well. It is toxic, so don't breath the powder. But it cures very hard, not soft like titebond 1,2,&3.

This is the type of glue that people use to veneer and make bent laminations with.

Another downside of it though is that it has a shelf live of about 1-2 years.

That is the type of glue I like for complex glueups, tight joints, or stressed connections like in a bent lamination.

[Bob Eustace]

I use a lot of tight bond with good results but want to try some of the Super glues for wood. Sure could speed things up if they work well.

Mark please try the super glues as they can save hours of time. I do heaps of small box joints and used to go bonkers trying to get Tite Bond into the joints - even tried those eyelash brushes women use! Discovered super glue! All you do is put a few drops on the surface and the stuff just wicks into the joint. It doesnt leak inside so you dont need the blue tape trick inside the box. Even better its great for filling small gaps. Plonk in sawdust and drop on glue. Its now a pleasure to do these glue ups! Interestingly the junk store stuff works very well too! Only need 30 minutes to set up.