Bill Young's Wedge Top Questions

[mmak2916]

Hi,

I would like to make the wedge top for my ShopBot Desktop using the spoilerboard included with the machine. I have downloaded all the files from here:
https://app.box.com/wedging-top


In the file named "Desktop mdf wedging top.crv" it shows the entire cutout of the board to be sized at 28.5"22.5". Does anyone have a VCarve file that is specified to 24x"18" for the Desktop only using the spoilerboard that the machine came with?
I also noticed the dowel holes toolpath is set at cut depth of 0.78, whereas the spoilerboard is 3/4" thick. Wouldn't the bit cut through to the aluminum rails?
Which bit(s) would you recommend using to cut? I have the ShopBot Desktop Starter Bit Kit (13698).


Thanks in advance, sorry for the novice questions!

[scottp55]

Margaret, First time I've looked at the original in awhile:)
Bill had it easy and cut it on his full size machine.
The entire idea behind it was to be able to use our Full 24X18" cutting area which means the clamps and fences have to be Larger than the cutting area.
To cut it on the Desktop factory spoilboard you'll need another piece of MDF say 24X30" and that will get attached to the factory spoilboard with screws.
It has to be Grouped/rotated 90 degrees/ and then moved so that lower left corner is at 0,0(see picture)/ then you need to use the "Tiling" toolpath function. See tutorial D02 http://support.vectric.com/tut-vcp-2d-techniques
I modified mine a fair amount to use threaded inserts and changed some dimensions and used different bits and with a 1"grid in the same file it gets pretty confusing.
I'm hoping a VERY gracious gentleman named Bob Dodd will jump in and give you the rotated/Tiled version that he's been using for several month now. I'll contact him if he hasn't already replied to this by morning.
1/4" Starter bits will do the whole thing.
The reason for the depth of the dowel holes/bolt slots is to make sure it cuts cleanly, all the way through into the factory spoilboard.
Bob and I also both added(his idea) a recessed area outside the cutting area to take into account surfacing the spoilboard in the future.
Bob will also probably have some good tips on sealing the MDF(prevent humidity movement/swelling which is a pain sometimes) and the best way to register the basic design so tiling will be accurate.
Sorry to assume You'll help Margaret as much as you've helped me Bob! I'd redraw it myself except I'm busy until Tuesday(Dads coming Monday and way behind on files).
If Bob's unavailable Margaret, I'll be glad to talk via e-mail on my profile contact info, and work on it as soon as I get a chance.
Keep asking questions:)
scott

[bob_dodd]

Margaret

I will post the files and some pictures today of my spoil (modified Bill Young's ) board that I put together to fit my needs and explain how to set up , It is 31.75" along X ( just fits inside the gantry and helps keep slides clean ) by 24" in the Y , I purchased a pc. of MFD from HD 24"X48"

Scott Thanks for the kind remarks

Need second cup of coffee , will continue

[scottp55]

Thanks Bob, If anything, I for once in my life understated something when I said how helpful you are:)
First cup here and then get ready to shovel out and run errands.
When I saw Margaret's question, I immediately thought of you because yours is so much simpler and set up for a Desktop to cut.
How much did you decide to recess? You going to add 1/4" MDF when you get close to recess depth? I left .3" when I glued a piece of 3/4" to mine. Seem to have sufficient clamping and love the height for surfacing/dimensioning options now:)
Margaret, Bob is one of the "Good" people:)
scott

[mmak2916]

Thanks Bob and Scott! Scott gave me a better vision on how the board is supposed to work. Bob, I will look forward to your files!

Thanks for all the awesome help guys!

[bob_dodd]

Margret The files CRV are too large to upload to forum . I am able to upload zipped DXF files You should be able to IMPORT in to V carve , you can then add toolpaths . In the photo there are 4 red filled circles after cutting Tile one , insert dowel into the 2 lower ones and insert into the two upper ones , this should index for cutting tile 2 , If you send me a PM with your email I'll send you or any other DT botter the CRV files with toolpaths

[scottp55]

Margaret, I HATED paying for and driving 300+ inserts, but at least it opens a few options.
Nice thing about Bills is it makes it easier to make one of Mine accurately (which is what I SHOULD have done, as inaccurate tiling has bit me in the *ss more than once:)
Thanks once again Bill!!:)

[scottp55]

Just a couple more, but GREAT for swapping back and forth quickly.
VERY important when wedging that everything is 90degree, Ply wedges seem to hold much better than solid wood because of alternating grain.

[Ross Leidy]

Resurrecting an old thread here. I'm scheming a new spoil board for my DT, and I like the idea of the oversized wedging top. I'm also planning to use both the locator holes and holes for threaded inserts (t-nuts). My question is once the top is cut, what techniques work best for ensuring that the locator holes are exactly aligned in X and Y and evenly spaced from (0,0) when fastening the top? The best option I can see is to chuck a tapered pin into the spindle and move it around to various locations, shifting the loosely-mounted top until the pin is consistently aligned with the corresponding locator holes. Seems a little fiddly. Is there a better way?

[scottp55]

Ross,
After fiddling with with my first one with a 30* VBit for an hour trying to be perfect, on second and third ones, we came up with inserting one of our .125" shank bits upside down (and finger tight!).
We got the spoilboard and bolts on and got it very close by lowering the bit shank(setting fixed distance to .01 speeds thing up for Z) below the elevated cutting area(offset by 1/2 Diameter of the shank!!!) at 1,0 and then 0,1 and gently tapping it into place with a flashlight behind the bit for better visibility. Then did 23,0 and 0,17.
Then repeated until we were dead nut and slightly tightening bolts after each alignment.
Done it 3 times now, and never took longer than 20 minutes with another person doing the Gentle tapping.

Double check after final tightening.

Add X,Y fences and do the same thing with offset the other way on the fences, and one of ours we had to use bar clamps to pull the fence into the the raised cutting area perfectly.

Be glad to send you my files too, if you e-mail me from contact list....Using a profile cut with a spiral ramp really speeds things up and you can at least see the feeds,speeds,passes on MDF.

A few people have them now, and LOVE them for quick,easy, and repeatable jigging:)

The only thing I did wrong on my first one was to use big box store MDF! Bob Dodd's with HDO would be MUCH more dimensionally stable, and either HDO or .5" phenolic somebody gifted me last month will be the way I go IF this one ever wears out(but gluing on a new cutting area when it gets thin makes that unlikely).
scott

[Ross Leidy]

Scott - thanks for the reply. Regarding your process: You're using the inverted 1/8" shank centered over (and into) a 1/4" indexing holes (or 3/8" - I haven't seen the .crv files yet) and eyeballing to see if it's centered in the hole? I just want to make sure I'm interpreting that right.

I'd love to get a copy of your files, thanks! I'll PM you.

[scottp55]

Files sent Ross.
You'll see that the actual 24X18" usable cutting area is raised.
You don't use the holes at all...just use the offset shank to line up the cutting area lip so 0,0 fences are to Zero.
You have to flip material 90 degrees to Tile it on the Desktop...use the last file I sent for when you eventually glue a new top on, and the orientation will make more sense.
Haven't surfaced my spoilboard since it warmed up here, so when I have my fences off, I'll try to remember to take some pics while I double check mine for 0,0.
scott