X,Y center in hole jig

[jdwykrent]

Just got done making four of these. What do you guys think? I was thinking I could also change the parmeter of the z zero plate to reflect the thickness of the block and use it to zero the z axis as well.

[jTr]

Very nice - looks like you milled from a fairly thick block of aluminum. I have a more rudimentary version picked up from archives here a year or so ago, which is simply a 1" copper cap set into a wooden block. Gets the job done, but sure like the professional look and durability of yours.

Having a cap does have one advantage: you have a thin surface at the bottom to zero Z axis - perhaps you could mill a similar cup rather than through hole, leaving a target plate thickness for the Z contact so it could be included as part of a complete X,Y,Z zero routine.

(forgive me if I misinterpreted, but it looks like it is a through hole in the photo)

Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing!



jeff

[jdwykrent]

It does go all the way through. Unfortunately it would be a 2 sided cut if I were to have the hole go partially through.

[jdwykrent]

Forgot to mention, If any one is interested I am selling them. I have a post in the forsale / wanted section with a link to my Etsy page.

[coryatjohn]

I'm curious about the bit you're using there. It looks like a 2 flute straight. Normally for aluminum, I always use a single flute super-o. What's the make and model number of that bit and what did you use for feeds and speeds?

[adrianm]

Looks very similar to the Super Zero jig that was being sold here a few years back.

Jeff, can't you use the bottom of your copper cap to set the Z? That's what I do with mine. It's just a matter of working out the thickness like it was the zero plate.

[jdwykrent]

It is a cmt 812.064.11. Menards sells them for 13$. Speeds were recommended by APE cnc in Michigan. Using a continous stream of compressed air, I cut the block pictured at 20,000rpm @ 1ips .007 cut depth. I have also cut at 18,000rpm @ .75ips .002 cut depth. lol have found that the first set of numbers gives me a better finish on flat surfaces. Also I should note that I am still experimenting with the bit and feed rates. I have seen a guy on YouTube cutting crazy fast. I'll see if I can find the link. He does use a mister though.

[jdwykrent]

Here is the YouTube link:

http://youtu.be/ifMn6pHXLMM

He talks a lot in the beginning. So feel free to skip forward. He cuts through the material like his bit is a hot knife going through butter.

[coryatjohn]

Jeff - Do you calculate in a deflection parameter? I've found there's always some deflection with aluminum, usually it's about .01". I cut with a 1/4" single flute super-o, .025 depth, 1.5 IPS at 18,000. The cut is always nice and clean but sometimes there are burrs that have to be removed (easily) manually. I feel like aluminum fights back a lot more than plastic or wood. Lots of hold down required. Maybe I'm being a bit aggressive?

[jdwykrent]

No I don't. I use C-clamps to hold my work.

[jTr]

Adrian:
Jeff, can't you use the bottom of your copper cap to set the Z? That's what I do with mine. It's just a matter of working out the thickness like it was the zero plate.

I do, which is precisely why I suggested a bottom be left in this aluminum version.
Sorry for the poor wording!

jeff

[Brady Watson]

O-flutes for routing aluminum are available in both straight and spiral. Look in the Onsrud catalog.

-B