View Full Version : Pink Foam
ron_moorehead
04-17-2015, 02:12 PM
Hi,
I was wondering if anyone has been cutting the pink foam boards you can get at the big box stores lately. If so how has it been cutting for you. I have a couple of projects I would like to try in the pink foam since is so cheap.
Thanks
Kyle Stapleton
04-17-2015, 02:31 PM
Works fine there is a many threads (lot of good stuff) on the forum about it.
Main thing is do not climb cut it.
knight_toolworks
04-17-2015, 02:44 PM
Plus you can't let a non cutting part of the bit rub on it. so have full length flutes and 18k rpms and if you want a really clean edge cut 2 ips. you can cut faster with a ltitle tearout on the edges.
Tony Omachinski
04-17-2015, 03:47 PM
Plus you can't let a non cutting part of the bit rub on it. so have full length flutes and 18k rpms and if you want a really clean edge cut 2 ips. you can cut faster with a ltitle tearout on the edges.
24808
Here is a wine bottle I cut out of pink foam.
I used 1/2" round nose bit at 16000rpm and 8ips
919RickR
04-18-2015, 06:54 AM
I use pink foam to test my 3D files. You don't ruin bits or expensive wood
Rick
919RickR
04-18-2015, 07:31 AM
Make sure your machine is well grounded to eliminate static
Rick
Brian Harnett
04-18-2015, 09:44 AM
If you are cutting a large project keep an eye on your pinion gears it can build up on them and the rack.
It is great for prototyping
http://i.imgur.com/vi4OOQu.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zIWOPnP.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/cMUjzg8.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GIKXbbJ.jpg
khaos
04-18-2015, 09:56 AM
I use it, I love it for prototyping. There are seams cut into some of the foam to facilitate snapping apart and fitting between studs. If your designs allow try to keep it between the lines. If not just get the glue out. :)
ron_moorehead
04-18-2015, 10:34 AM
I love the photos of the gears and wine bottle, how are you guys finishing the foam? The finish looks great.
Brian Harnett
04-18-2015, 11:01 AM
Ron I finished mine with first a torch carefully applied to create the pitting then the same mixture I use for the base stain for my carvings, brown concrete pigment powder mixed with acrylic. the rust effect was from my rust cleaning solution a bucket white vinegar I put rusty tools I find to clean up, the resulting rust vinegar was sprayed on after a few coats and thoroughly dry put some clear acrylic to bind it on.
Or you can buy modern masters metal effects iron paint and skip all the steps, the smart thing to do.
knight_toolworks
04-18-2015, 12:20 PM
I said edge cutting. 3d is a different ballgame. though you still want 18k because ti s hard to keep the shipload high enough on the foam. but if you want to cut it in 2d if you go at tips you will have al to of tearout. You may be able to get to lips with a 4 flute bit but I haven to tested it. the problem with foam is getting a high enough chipload.
curtiss
04-18-2015, 01:55 PM
This site has some interesting stuff...
cone calculator / ect...
http://www.i-logic.com/conecalc.htm
Tony Omachinski
04-20-2015, 04:51 PM
I'll sand it lightly with 120 grit then put a coat of latex primer on.That allows you to fill any defects with drywall compound without tearing into the foam. Then prime again and paint it.If you need a tougher shell I'll use Styro spray or Sculpt and Coat.
twelchPTM
06-04-2015, 03:31 PM
I love the stuff. I use it for prototyping, test runns on files, I've made gigantic signs and other decorations and even halloween costumes with it. I always use latex primer first but then you can use spraypaint or whatever to finish it. One time I was working on a haunted house however and I used spray pain in what I like to call a "controlled dissolve" to make rotting flesh!
Brian Harnett
06-05-2015, 07:16 AM
I love the stuff. I use it for prototyping, test runns on files, I've made gigantic signs and other decorations and even halloween costumes with it. I always use latex primer first but then you can use spraypaint or whatever to finish it. One time I was working on a haunted house however and I used spray pain in what I like to call a "controlled dissolve" to make rotting flesh!
Shellac primer works really good too, it gives the surface a hard coat.
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