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kurt_rose
05-24-2015, 08:31 AM
Hi people. I'm getting ready to make a sign for a local B&B and am thinking of going the PVC route. I always have used Extira but is seems to be getting harder to find as well as getting heavier, but that might just be me getting older. My question is do I have to prime PVC before painting with latex. Also will the latex grip well enough to use a masking film. I know they come in different tacks. but i'm just not that sure. All suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Kurt :)

bleeth
05-24-2015, 05:01 PM
You can prime with Killz. You need to make sure your coat is really dry before masking. If it is only surface dry you'll have an issue. A full day before masking is minimally typical.

pappybaynes
05-24-2015, 05:20 PM
Hi people. I'm getting ready to make a sign for a local B&B and am thinking of going the PVC route. I always have used Extira but is seems to be getting harder to find as well as getting heavier, but that might just be me getting older. My question is do I have to prime PVC before painting with latex. Also will the latex grip well enough to use a masking film. I know they come in different tacks. but i'm just not that sure. All suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Kurt :)

Latex paint takes a full 30 days to fully cure...using mask on it on PVC will pull it off...been there, done that...was not a happy camper.
Dick

harryball
05-24-2015, 07:10 PM
On the subject of replacing Extira (otherwise know as the nasty cutting product from h3ll) Is it available in 1" thicknesses? Will caulks adhere to it like Extira? Does it hold screws well? Will paint stick to it well? Is it as nasty to cut as Extira? What is the cost compare to Extira? I'm thinking cost might be the biggest problem in the scheme of things, but the more of this stuff I cut the more I'd be willing to pay more to avoid it.

I know you make signs out of it, it must be paintable and caulkable right? I'm considering dropping Extira and replacing my bat house sides with PVC but I would need something 1" thick to do it that could cope with all of the above.

/RB

coryatjohn
05-24-2015, 09:39 PM
As far as plastics go, I really don't like PVC. It doesn't cut as well, leaves a lot of "fuzz" and is much more difficult to glue. I would suggest looking at acrylics. They are really easy to cut and gluing them is amazingly fast and easy. if you want to use them for bat houses, you can buy acrylics in multiple colors and use a simple and fast acting solvent glue to put them together. There isn't as much of a static problem with acrylics as there is PVC in my opinion. Acrylics are also pretty much impervious to everything, UV resistant and are non-toxic to animal life. They use acrylics in aquariums so that should say something.

kurt_rose
05-25-2015, 09:05 AM
Thanks guys. I'm gonna do a few test pieces and will report back. I see a lot of signs in my future and want to perfect a system.

pappybaynes
05-25-2015, 09:46 AM
As far as plastics go, I really don't like PVC. It doesn't cut as well, leaves a lot of "fuzz" and is much more difficult to glue. I would suggest looking at acrylics. They are really easy to cut and gluing them is amazingly fast and easy. if you want to use them for bat houses, you can buy acrylics in multiple colors and use a simple and fast acting solvent glue to put them together. There isn't as much of a static problem with acrylics as there is PVC in my opinion. Acrylics are also pretty much impervious to everything, UV resistant and are non-toxic to animal life. They use acrylics in aquariums so that should say something.

I use PVC-type construction material (5/4 x 12") for historical signs...cuts like butter and takes paint very well, and with the correct glue pieces go together very easily...used in the housing industry for corner, rake, soffit boards etc. My only problem, as stated above, is that IF you need to paint the sign first and want to use a mask on it for the letters, the paint has to fully cure. I have been told that using XIM 400 as a primer greatly enhances the adhesion of the top coat...I haven't tried it yet, but plan to as the 18' boards I get from the lumber yard are often scuffed or scratched. I do not hang my signs, I let the historical society do it - in 3 years I have not heard of a problem...
Dick

kurt_rose
05-25-2015, 10:35 AM
Exactly what I want to hear Dick. I just grabbed a piece of Azek and sanded it with 120 grit and coated half of it with a good oil base primer. Tomorrow i'll paint the whole piece with the top coat and let it dry another day or 2 before masking. I'm gonna call Harbor sales tomorrow and let them suggest what tac to buy. Testing 1...2...3... ala Joe Crumbley.