Finishing question

[Davo]

I tried the general finishes arm r seal on oak, came out awesome

However it does not seem to darken pine at all like oak

What do I use to get the same effect on pine as oak to give it that "look"?

Also after the general finish what else do most you guys do?

I'm using satin and there seems to be zero shine at all, very flat after drying

What's the typical products used for a nice finish?

[dmidkiff]

Davo, I do not use General Finishes but most of the finishes that I have used come in satin, semi gloss and gloss. You need to decide which you like best. Not sure why the pine did not darken. You may need to stain it first or possibly add some tint to the finish.(check with manufacturer)

[cowboy1296]

I am dumber than a stump when it comes to finishing, I just know what i like. There are some woods that turn a pretty color when you add arm a seal and others will just stay blonde. I have found that finishing 3-d is far different than finishing a flat board. If you are not careful it will end up a splotchy mess. I know that you have seen this Cal Tex plaque, but after 2 coats of arm a seal it was still pretty blonde. That is when i added a coat of darker gel stain and then wiped off the excess. As i understand it this is a form of glazing. I then added a 3rd and final coat of arm a seal. I use semi gloss. When i dont want it to be that glossy, I buff it with http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Scotch-Brite-6-Pack-White-Light-Duty-Cleaning-Pad-/120644957089?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c16fff3a1 in the direction of the grain. Scotch Brite goes a longs ways so you dont have to buy a huge amount and you can reuse it. you can actually take a way the sheen plus it will help take away some of the not so dry imperfections in your finish.http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=25451&stc=1

[Davo]

What type of wood was used in that picture

[cowboy1296]

it was alder and here is piece of cherry finished the same wayhttp://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=25453&stc=1

[Davo]

Your getting orders all the way from Houston still?

How many inches across are these?

[cowboy1296]

Thats my market and they dont seem to mind the shipping fees.

[cowboy1296]

Those are 17 inches in diameter.

[Davo]

Hope I figure out how to get a finish as good as yours, I'm still learning all that

The gel stain is what I would like to pull off next

I'm not familiar with gel stains or which to purchase

[cowboy1296]

gel stain has a bit of a shelf life and in my experience General Finishes has a bit more shelf life than minwax. Most of the time you can wipe off the excess with a dry rag but if needed a rag moistened in mineral spirits can assist. But make sure you have already added two coats of sealer such as arm a seal. In the Indian head there were spots that had to much gel stain and i could not use a rag. so i took a small paint brush, dipped it in mineral spirits, and brushed out the excess gel stain.

Trust me on this one, when it comes to finishing i am nothing more that a class B amateur and still learning myself.

[Davo]

If I use a standard urethane vs arm r seal - what's the difference in the finished look?

[jTr]

Davo,
I Have extensive experience with General Finishes, and recently tried the Arm R Seal. Some points to bear in mind:
- On a small piece, such as the beautiful carvings shown, it is absolutely stellar. Looks as good as a sprayed finish with a minimal amount of practice.
- On a large piece, like a bar top, I found it set up and became tacky before I could properly wipe/blend it out.

Urethane vs. Arm-r seal: At the very core, they're the same type of film- a polyurethane. You could brew your own with your favorite polyurethane and a balance of thinner for ease of wiping. General Finishes has already done so with the Arm-r seal, and imply an oil is part of the blend, which may be what helps it lay out and achieve such a nice glow.

Reaching back to your earlier question- nothing else needs to be done to the Arm-R-Seal once you reach the desired build of coats- two seems ideal, with a third adding a higher sheen/glossy look.
However, if you have wiping streaks or uneven sheen, simply allow a few days cure and rub out with 4-O steel wool with any lubricant such as Mohawk Wool-Lube, a light paste wax, or even simply a non-silicone furniture polish, like Guardsman brand. If it is a carving, a pinch of a dark walnut paste wax can really help to set off an aged patina adding contrast to the details of the carving. Any time you use a paste wax, apply sparingly - thinning 20-30% with mineral spirits is often helpful.

Good luck with your project,

jeff

[JoeinWestMich]

Cowboy,
You may say you are a Class B amateur finisher but in my book you are Class A. Someday please do a .pdf or YouTube video showing your detailing. I think your two pieces shown here are awesome.
Joe

[Ken Sully]

Just another note on General finishes. If you buy the satin finish and do not shake it up for the final finish you will get gloss. Also Arm-R-Seal is kind of pricey about 50.00 a gallon. What I use to keep the product from thickening or forming a skin-over is Bloxygen (argon gas) in a can. The gas is heavier than air and gives you much longer life from your finishes between uses. This will work with all types of finishes. Greatly improving shelf life. I have also used Sulfur Hexafluoride which is 33 times heaver than air, it seems to work great also. The way you use it is to give it a squirt before closing up the product.
I have been very happy with General Finishes and it's non yellowing.

[cowboy1296]

thanks. amr a seal, i brush on a little more then needed and then just off the excess. i am sure that each project has something different about it. using strong glasses and light behind me helps