New Z, Kent, E-Chain On Old PR Install Help Please

[rb99]

I have not used my machine for a couple of years but have the bug again.

Last time I was upgrading it. I had bought and installed a new SB control box (4G I think, is complete box w/ power supply), and I had bought a new Z from a botter, plus 3 new 25 tooth gears and a 4th one (z) with less teeth. Lastly I bought a Kent dust foot and a pile of e-chain.

So I need tips on installing the Z first. It is one to fit on a PRT I think. It is longer than a regular one. (12" travel)

Should I install it inside the Z carriage or on the outside?

Any help with the Kent? I use a standard PC router.

Any tips for any of these upgrades will be greatly appreciated.

[Brady Watson]

The Z should bolt right onto the angle brackets from the old PR Z. There should be three or four 1/2" holes in the 2X2" uprights to bolt to the angle. If not, Fastenal sells the A-shaped brackets. Search for posts by Gene Crain. His PR has a PRT Z on it. There should be plenty of pics around.

The Kent should bolt to the lower part of the router via hose clamp/acrylic ring. Google image search "kent dust shopbot"

-B

[rb99]

The Z should bolt right onto the angle brackets from the old PR Z. There should be three or four 1/2" holes in the 2X2" uprights to bolt to the angle. If not, Fastenal sells the A-shaped brackets. Search for posts by Gene Crain. His PR has a PRT Z on it. There should be plenty of pics around.

The Kent should bolt to the lower part of the router via hose clamp/acrylic ring. Google image search "kent dust shopbot"

-B

Thanks Brady. I will search for Gene's posts.

I was hoping the Kent foot would be set independently of the router height. That's what I had before.

[Brady Watson]

No, the Kent will go up & down with the Z. If you want a stationary one, like the original PR/PRT - you'll have to make one yourself.

While the original was a piece of junk, it was better idea overall than the one that goes up & down with the Z. My feeling is that the one that goes up & down with the Z is more of a safety thing (since it covers the spinning bit) than anything else. It has too much open area and necks down too tightly at the back, plus what's up with the hose size? The original one won't gouge 3D parts because it stays at the top of the block.

The original was a piece of 3/8 or 1/2" clear plex with a door sweep around the edge. There was a hole for the router/spindle and one for a 2" shopvac extension wand - which also served as a structural member. This was attached to the frame with a hose clamp and bracket. Pretty simple. You could do the same with the Kent, but you would have to come up with a rigid pipe (3" sch 40?) or similar to emulate the original config.

-B

[rb99]

No, the Kent will go up & down with the Z. If you want a stationary one, like the original PR/PRT - you'll have to make one yourself.

While the original was a piece of junk, it was better idea overall than the one that goes up & down with the Z. My feeling is that the one that goes up & down with the Z is more of a safety thing (since it covers the spinning bit) than anything else. It has too much open area and necks down too tightly at the back, plus what's up with the hose size? The original one won't gouge 3D parts because it stays at the top of the block.

The original was a piece of 3/8 or 1/2" clear plex with a door sweep around the edge. There was a hole for the router/spindle and one for a 2" shopvac extension wand - which also served as a structural member. This was attached to the frame with a hose clamp and bracket. Pretty simple. You could do the same with the Kent, but you would have to come up with a rigid pipe (3" sch 40?) or similar to emulate the original config.

-B

It's a bad safety thing? What does "rigid pipe (3" sch 40?)" mean?

[Brady Watson]

In my opinion...no.

3" sch 40 = schedule 40 PVC pipe. ABS would work too.

-B