Recognize this bit?

[myxpykalix]

It is a specialized dovetail bit used to make dovetails on the flat surface, see:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0gdcUceWfo

but as usual legacy is scant with their details.

[myxpykalix]

forgot o add picture...fell asleep sitting here!

[Brady Watson]

My guess is Magnate...although, there is nothing fancy about it. Any dovetail bit of the appropriate angle will work.

-B

[scottp55]

Jack,
Wish I'd had one when we did shouldered stopped halfblind sliding dovetails on this bookcase.
Slight PITA with a hand router/2 bits/ and a oneof jig, but really strong joint on things like this, and glad I shouldered when kids decide you built them a Really neat ladder, and we didn't use glue:)
Think you'd spec the bit width at the "shoulder" and run as an endmill, OR make a form tool in database with max width of dovetail/depth to shoulder etc. You can't do the undercut of course, but should give you a preview.
Run it like a keyhole bit starting off the workpiece. Start your polyline and then go back on the line you made, but offset VERY slightly. Then go into node editing and drag the offset node into line with with your original. Make sure your start point is correct and DON"T ramp the cut and DO use your start points.
Should also be great for stopped shouldered through dovetails.
Granted you can just use an endmill with a CNC, but with Desktop that bit would make it easy to slide through my Yaxis and do both at once so I can just pencil mark index and not worry very much about a warped piece of live edge:)
Think I'll buy one...Thanks.
No idea why we didn't shoulder the through tenon side, but that piece was 1/4" thinner and maybe we were thinking the Ebony wedge would suck the 5/4 shelves flat. (maybe our bit was burnt:)
scott
Oh, Just remembered...between the 2 boards, there was 1" of warp in 8'. We drove the dovetails(hot waxed) into the right side, and then laid flat and manhandled the through tenons in, and then sucked to plumb with the wedges. Because of the warp the hand held router/jig wasn't exactly plumb.(You can see we had to shave down and radius the tenons even so.