Is It A Big Deal Making A 3 Axis Zero Plate?

[rb99]

I think I can machine a plate, but what about the routine?

What is everyone doing/using? I had the old ball screw Z and I would use the motors off command, then manually turn the screw until the Z was at the right height (using a piece of paper). Then I turned the motors on and I was good to go. Now I have the new Z and motors off doesn't exist...

I am in the last stages of refurbishing my old machine but the zeroing
will be my last hurdle. For now. Until I tackle vacuum hold down, and limit switches...

I am out of practice with the SB, so any guidance is appreciated.

[Davo]

Speaking of zeroing

Can you just get the bit near the surface - loosen the collet and let the bit touch the surface - retighten? Seems that would be a true zero unless retightening moves the bit too much

[Brady Watson]

Just make yourself a Zzero plate. A piece of 2" X 12" AL bar 1/8" thick, bent up on the end and a wire connected to the plate is all you need. Depot sells AL plate like this at drug store prices. Plug it into input 1. You could make it out of a wire, and a tin-foil covered brick if you really wanted to...It's so simple.

Make sure machine is grounded to control box. Plug wire into input 1. Run TS and mic plate. Enter thickness. Touch plate to collet. If input 1 lights up, "Bob's your uncle"; if not, you need a ground wire to Gnd terminal on control board with an alligator clip on the router end; especially for ones with worn brushes. Clip it to the collet. Then touch plate.

SB runs 3 wires up to the plate Wago connector: Ground, Input1, 5v (for probe). Gator clip connects to ground.

Nobody needs a 3-axis plate. Why anyone would want one is beyond me (please explain what you think this will do for you). Take one of your broken bits and sharpen it to a point. Use it as an indicator for aligning the tool to an edge or center point. Then use the Z commands to set the axis zero.

Zeroing the Z using the other methods mentioned is knuckle-draggery. You will never get the level of precision (percision maybe) that you need to do fine work. Once you use a Zzero plate, you'll wish that you made one sooner.

-B

[Bob T]

Davo,
Depending upon your required tolerance and flatness of your table I would think you could do what you described and reset your z zero, but I can't think of a situation where that would be the best option. Z zero to the bar on the table or material seems immeasurably more accurate than your eyeball. But, I am comparatively new to this . . .

[srwtlc]

An XY axis zeroing plate is indispensable for me. I'll call it a two axis here as I never use it for zeroing the Z axis (easier and better to use the SB supplied Z zeroing plate). I use it for setting up fixtures at various locations on the table and then can save those locations as offsets from table base coordinates to return to and move freely between any of them as they are used. No futzing with eyeballing a v-bit and not being accurately set up. It also makes setting your table base coordinates accurate and easy.

I've shared the drawings and files for my plate before, but here's the link again. http://1drv.ms/1wAWrln

[Brady Watson]

Thanks Scott I didn't think of that. It makes a lot of sense for offsets.

-B

[James M]

Scott,

Thanks for sharing your design. Question, what is the purpose of the lobes in the second one-piece design?

Thanks,

James

[srwtlc]

It's a deterrent feature. It keeps you from using it the wrong way (credit to Kyle Stapleton for the integral fence/lobe modification). If using it on an outside corner of a fixture or part, you hook the lipped edge over the fixture/part. If using it on an inside corner, you use the edges that allow a tight fit in the corner (the lobes won't allow that corner to settle into an inside corner). A banana plug is used on one end of the cord and you can plug it in on either corner of it depending on the usage (the other end of the cord has an alligator clip to clip onto the z-zero plate).

[James M]

Scott,

Thanks for the answer. Your explanation makes perfect sense. I forgot that you could use it for an inside corner.

James

[rb99]

Thank you everyone for the help and input.

I am unsure about the inputs mentioned about the 4g controller. Where are they? Are these the same ones I would use if I want to put in stop or proximity switches? How many are there? What else are they good for? What other if any goodies are hiding in the box?

Is there some sort of layout or explanation/manual I missed when I bought the controller?

[BrandanS]

Thank you everyone for the help and input.

I am unsure about the inputs mentioned about the 4g controller. Where are they? Are these the same ones I would use if I want to put in stop or proximity switches? How many are there? What else are they good for? What other if any goodies are hiding in the box?

Is there some sort of layout or explanation/manual I missed when I bought the controller?

RB99,

The PRS alpha's have eight Inputs and Outputs (PRS have 4). I use them for a variety of control applications. One of the most simple, but probably most used, is a "Start Cycle" Push Button. I run major production on my ShopBots, so it is useful as an operator not to have to touch the keyboard or control HUD once loaded. Simply push a Button, and off we go! The Coding for it was simple. At the end of the routine, PAUSE UNTIL(x,1) [X being your input number], followed by a GOTO [Name of Subroutine which points to beginning of your file] and voila (Credit to Scott about a year ago who helped me get this working; Scott you should see our system now :D )

There was a time when I was going to wire in a solenoid to control a screw gun mounted on a cylinder... A tool changer of sorts ;) (I believe ShopBot sells their own version).

There is a reference to the I/O on page 47 of the ShopBot User Guide. It's in the introductory section which explains Dust Collection and Probing Surfaces, under the title working with accessories.

My system is much more robust than that nowadays. I've added latching relays to some outputs to cancel 'bits' once set. There are a ton of wonderful things you can do with the ShopBot I/O.

[Scott216]

An XY axis zeroing plate is indispensable for me. I'll call it a two axis here as I never use it for zeroing the Z axis (easier and better to use the SB supplied Z zeroing plate). I use it for setting up fixtures at various locations on the table and then can save those locations as offsets from table base coordinates to return to and move freely between any of them as they are used. No futzing with eyeballing a v-bit and not being accurately set up. It also makes setting your table base coordinates accurate and easy.

I've shared the drawings and files for my plate before, but here's the link again. http://1drv.ms/1wAWrln

I just made one of these plates (nice design), but mine is a bit thinner than 0.500". I went through the shopbot script, but couldn't figure out how to account for a different plate thickness. Can you tell me what to adjust in the script?

Thanks

[srwtlc]

Scott.

This line in the script sets how deep to drop down into the hole after finding the plate surface. If your plate is thinner, make this variable less than the thickness of your plate.

&Z_test_depth = -0.375 'This is test depth that will be used after we've found the plate height.

Keep in mind that my intent was never to use this fixture for setting the Z axis height, as it didn't make sense to me to use a larger more cumbersome plate for that when the SB supplied plate is more suited to and intended for that purpose. You could add code to call up the Z zeroing routine if so desired, but would need to set the thickness of your plate in the my_variables.sbc file or just add the Z zeroing file to this routine with the proper variable for your plate thickness and branch to it if desired with a question.

[Kyle Stapleton]

You beat me to it.:D

[jerry_stanek]

This is a 3 axis routine

[Scott216]

I assumed srwtlc's script did all three axis. If you're gonna do X-Y, might as well do Z at the same time. Since the plate is designed to be used with a banana jack, I figure I'd add a banana connector the the regular shopbot z-zero plate. Then just plug in one plate or the other and run the appropriate script.

Jerry, I'll check out your X_Y ZeroPlate.sbp script. Thanks!

[srwtlc]

Like I said, I saw no advantage in using the large plate to set Z axis zero when the smaller thin plate is much easier to use for that purpose when the larger fixture is only needed when I want to accurately set to another location or set up a different jig and is then put away for what could be anywhere from a few hours to days/weeks before it is needed it again.

[Scott216]

[QUOTE=jerry_stanek;193377]This is a 3 axis routine[/QUOTE

Hi Jerry. This seems to be the exact same file that srwtlc created. It's just X-Y. I don't see anything for z zeroing.

[Michaelodunk]

you can find one on www.puritan.cnc I moding on thified some software that was available somewhere on the shopbot site. It works in a corner but the z height does not work because it is not sitting
on the work piece.

If you would like more information you can email me
michaelodunk@gmail.com

[srwtlc]

You already have a file that works for the Z axis in your sb parts folder. With a little editing, you could add it to my routine or make a copy of it and customize it for your plate thickness and call it up from the x y file if you wanted to zero the Z axis at the same time. Set it up as a custom cut # and run it the same way you do with C2. Lot of ways around it, just do what works best for you.

[tlempicke]

Just have to point out that the shopbot 3 axis plate is beautifully made, comes with instructions and the routines you need and only costs $149. In the context of what you are trying to do that is pretty cheap. Yes I know there is a lot of pride involved in doing these things for yourself, but sometimes a screwdriver is just a screwdriver.

[jerry_stanek]

Try this one I grabbed the wrong one

[Scott216]

You already have a file that works for the Z axis in your sb parts folder. With a little editing, you could add it to my routine or make a copy of it and customize it for your plate thickness and call it up from the x y file if you wanted to zero the Z axis at the same time. Set it up as a custom cut # and run it the same way you do with C2. Lot of ways around it, just do what works best for you.

That's plan B. I was hoping someone already had and XYZ zero script that I could just use. I doubt it's too hard to figure out how to combine the Z-zero script into yours. But since I'm new to scripts, I'll want to be careful and take my time figuring it out. I'll post it here once I do.