View Full Version : Bringing old signs back to life
David Iannone
05-03-2016, 10:01 PM
This is a project I wanted to do and learn. These existing signs are 3'x12'. A while back Dr. Crumley and I had a conversation on the phone about this one.
3 Entrances with one sign on each side so 6 3'x12' signs to be refurbished. I am doing 1 side on each entrance this year, and the 2nd side next year (civic association budget).
I have the go ahead to move forward with production as of about a week ago. This is a refurbish job based on what I have learned here on the SB forum. I will document my progress as I go along as a thank you to Joe for the ideas of how to turn this one into a money maker.
David Iannone
05-03-2016, 10:15 PM
Blasting it now, I am working on getting the stuff that isn't sticking anymore off. After that I plan to put a backer board out of primed MDO from N Glantz. Screws and glue from the back to try to keep it as straight as possible. (when we took it down it was bowed like a banana, but after it sat overnight it flattened out?)
Since there are 6 of these that are exactly the same I am redrawing every letter of this sign that is raised. The letters and borders will be cut from .040 black alum and the hills will be cut from .040 alum and overlaid with cast vinyl to match the customers color. The cut shapes off the SB will then be glued to the raised portion. Background will be white. I gave them a schedule to be finished by July 23rd with the first 3.
Dave
Good to see the progress. Like you I enjoy bringing these projects back to life. Good money too.
My experience has been these old signs will last just as long or longer than the original one. Lots of fun.
Riptide369
05-06-2016, 01:29 PM
Thanks for sharing your progress. In many ways restoring old signs is more work than just creating new ones, but the insights you are gleaning and sharing should help folks design and restore signs that last even longer!
David Iannone
05-14-2016, 12:23 AM
Thanks Joe, you know so far I have only used a paint brush to make sure the primer and paint got into every nook and cranny. Yeah a little more time consuming than spraying it but I am having fun with this first one out of 6.
No fancy paint setup needed to do this type of work if you enjoy it.
Riptide, this sign is made out of old wood that is not rotten. I was told the subdivision was started in the late 80's. So it is 2016 which lets say the sign is 26 years old? Well from the first sign I am going to reintall next week I feel confident it will last another 10 years. I told my customer I don't give warranties but I will always back my work up.
David Iannone
05-14-2016, 12:32 AM
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=28207&stc=1http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=28208&stc=1http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=28209&stc=1http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=28210&stc=1
David Iannone
05-14-2016, 12:55 AM
.............
Good to see the progress.
This kind of work is fun. The finished sign can look even better than when it was new. After all we have computers and better paints.
Last week I took in one of my old dental sign that needed to be updated. The original had 23k lettering and the dentist wanted the same. What fun! I'll get around to taking a photo soon.
Keep up the good work.
bobmoore
05-14-2016, 09:56 AM
Looks great David. I am a little concerned though about moisture content of that wood. If the sign came out of there bowed like a banana it might have soaked up enough moisture to blow your paint out when the hot summer sun hits it.
Bob,
It's interesting how a wood sign can curl and warp but with a little drying time it flattens right out. I've seen that happen dozens of times. Here's what's going on. When a panel is blasted or routed on one side tension is released on that side. Even if this doesn't curl immediately it's likely to do so. One of the reasons is the difference in moisture absorption from front to back. Another factor is if the panel ends up against a wall, like brick where dampness is trapped there could be problems. It's a good measure to have a little relief behind the signs which allows for rain to escape.
With our new acrylic paints adhesion to raw wood is amazing. Even so I always apply an oil based primer like Ronan's Block Out White. It traps tannin's. But you gotta apply paints to dry wood. With proper priming and painting these old signs will last and last.
After all, at my age I'm giving clients a "Life Time Warranty".
bobmoore
05-14-2016, 06:37 PM
Good to here Joe. I will have to try Ronan's primer. I haven't had much luck with primers, maybe the Ronan will work. I will not buy another paint product from any Rustoleum brand and Sherwin Williams hasn't been much better. I make a lot of wood signs as you know and some of these companies don't put enough solids in to bother painting them on.
By the way I will be at Eufaula Lake this next weekend at my sisters cottage. Wish I had time to drive over and see you and your neighbor.
Bob,
That primer is heavy and the solids quickly sink to the bottom. I cut this primer with around 30% with paint thinner. Even at that dilution it maintains it's color trapping qualities. Another advantage to this dilution is it flows out better.
Joe
David Iannone
05-16-2016, 10:31 PM
This is actually my first refurbish project. I have been in the sign business since I was 15. Worked for a shop for 8 years before I started on my own. I have had my bot since 2001. It has been a long road, and I mean I moved my business 800 miles because my wife said it would be better to move closer to her family. A lot has changed in the last 10 years since I moved to GA.
I am excited about the future though. I am realizing I need to find more work like this. I am getting bored with the "fastsigns" mentality that I was taught way back in the day.
My plan is to finish all these entrances and then look for more projects like it. This job is more fun on the first sign than anything I have done in years, so to me its simple. Find more of this work and show photos of completed work and have working samples. I still have a long way to go.
Thanks Joe and Bob for your advice.
Dave
David Iannone
05-16-2016, 10:40 PM
I cut out a vinyl letter today to see if my scale was right on my trace of my picture. Not exactly correct, but I am about to make adjustments and retry a new test letter tomorrow.
The paint I used was what my local small hardware store recommended and sold me.
I am still learning but he said oil base primer, latex over that. So far it looks good but also I have scraped at it, picked at it, and tried to see it I could get the paint or primer to chip off but it is holding good.
Dave
I'm with you on the finishing process.
Bringing one of these old signs back to life requires several techniques seldom used. For example there is the technique of filling cracks and fishers along with choosing the proper primer. Sometimes a panel will have a warp and needs cleats applied to back. But when all finished up they can look as good as new. I've even split signs in half length wise, with the table saw, to replace sections.
The question for those interested about price is it comes in at half that of a new sign.
David Iannone
05-19-2016, 11:29 AM
For those interested in this type of work, here is Joe's original post on this subject.
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?20971-Bringing-old-signs-back-to-life&highlight=bringing+signs+back+life
I asked Steve to step in the photo for scale. You may notice the parts are not that large and are stuck together with Great stuff insulation foam. The assembly goes quick. Putting these animals together isn't all that difficult and the foam is easily shaped with a rasp if needed.
One photo is showing Jocelyn's wax model. The full sized elephant stands in the background. A few years ago, before the scanner and router, artists had to make these animals with chicken wire and paper-mache. The real trick was getting the proportions correct. That process is still being used today but soon will probably take it's place in history.
www.WildlifeBronzes.com
I'm amazed two guys built this 3D router equipment and put together the company Synopssys. It's nothing fancy but the product is amazing. The bit travels approx 2' horizontally while the vertical movement is about 4'. But the magic which brings the whole thing together is done in the scanning. That signal is the heart of the process.
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=28290&stc=1http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=28291&stc=1http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=28292&stc=1
David Iannone
05-27-2016, 11:23 PM
progress, but I was supposed to reinstall the first one today. But turns out it is my 41st birthday today and I locked the door a little early, but I am going to finish this first refurbish by the end of the weekend. I communicated it with my customer and they can't wait to see the first one reinstalled......
Happy Birthday, you deserve to take a day off.
Looks like you're getting the hang of this process. If you're considering using vinyl for the letters I'd suggest considering using DiBond. It's one of my favorite lettering material for this kind of work.
Looks like you're holding up this end of the Shopbot forum. Since most of the participants posting are Hobby minded there's little chance they will be contributing creative sign work. Keep up the good work.
The section dedicated to sign work has been one of the main places for creative artists. Without the creative postings, like yours, look what we have.
Joe
David Iannone
05-29-2016, 04:33 PM
Thanks Joe,
All the black borders and lettering are black. Well about two months ago I sheared up 3- 4x8 sheets of black .040 aluminum at 16" x 96" and it was supposed to be 17"x 96". What a dumb mistake......When this job got approved they went from green border and text to black border and text. I thought to myself....Yep that why ya save all your mistakes.
I'm using up all my scrap black for all the borders and smaller letters. once I use up all my black scrap .040 alum I am absolutely switching to dibond. The hills will be cut from .040 alum and overlaid with oracal 9 year cast tan vinyl.
I've been redrawing the letters in flexisign today and importing to aspire and cutting on the bot. going great. I missed yeatserday cause I had a little too much fun on my birthday friday.....LOL
I am about to lock up for the day, my brother in law said he was going bass fishing 5:00 to dark, and I said yeah I want to go. It will be very close but I will be in tomorrow AM and get back on it and should have it installed tomorrow afternoon and will post pics.
Thanks again for your help on this one.
Dave
David, Looks you are on the right track with DiBond.
This is one of the most valuable materials substrates in my shop. There are two considerations to keep in mind. First is the expansion. It should be in consideration for inlay letters. One should give it a little room. The other issue is trying to paint the black or gray edges. I've not found a paint that will stick.
Here are a few examples showing how I use it.
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=28337&stc=1
You mentioned Flexisign:
Let me give a thumbs up on that package. I've been hesitant on recommending it due to the cost. Most SBers, not in the sign business, couldn't justify it. I think it's some where in the 6K range. One of the outstanding features is it's scan, trace and digitize module. For example last week I had a ranch ordering a sign and they sent me a photo of exactly what they wanted. With that pix I digitized the lettering and logo and sent it to my plotter. There are few programs on the market that will cut directly as this one does. I've been recommending Corel for years since it's so cheap and has excellent import export filters. Not to mention is comes with a huge font bank.
Another feature of Flexi is it's ripping software. That's the matrix for large format printers. It's one of the best on the market for making big banners and printing on aluminum panels like Dibone. I don't use that part of the package but it's part of the software. Large printing is sent out.
If it only had a 3d carving package but the market is too narrow for them to mess with.
GeneMpls
05-30-2016, 12:35 PM
I agree on FlexiSign... have used it for 20+ years and it has made me a lot of money. I think it is now more like $4200 for the full boat package, but the designer package is much cheaper and you can get it on a monthly subscription. I know, I know- I am a hobbyist in your type of signage, but I am an actual accomplished sign person. There are many different disciplines that have a lot of overlap. And there is money to be made in the overlaps. Yours is not the only discipline. Gene
You know that if you would like to come back to 3Dsignforum it has been discussed and you are welcome.
Gene,
I'm on the side of you old tried and proven sign fellows. You've been in the trade for long enough and have proven your skills and deserve lots of respect.
Let me agree with you about the concern about my discipline. There are few of artists dedicated to only dimensional. For example in my section of the US I don't know of another sign shop like mine. Most of my sign friends do all kinds of work. There's nothing wrong with that. My heart goes out to them and all my posts and efforts are in support of their shops. Knowing how hard it is I try to limit my help to small sign shops. I'm not interested in the Feed & Speed crowd.
I've had lots of discussions about what it takes to opening up a sign shop. I tell everyone the primary requirement is to have a community large enough. No matter how accomplished a person is without businesses needing signs it worn't work. You could be the best CNC guy ever and it would still fail.
The SB forum has birthed dozens of sign business that are still going strong. It's always a thrill to hear from them.
Thanks for posting.
GeneMpls
05-31-2016, 09:34 AM
I am afraid that you are not going to be able to find a lot of people that do exactly what you are so good at doing- the world has changed on us old pharts. And all we can do is embrace it for as long as we can and try to stay productive and try to help like minded people along the way. Suffering for your art is less necessary now days, and maybe it is good.
I have taken on a Millennial (30 years old) as a full partner to help my daughter run the business and I have learned from him, and I am helping him with his impatience and need for almost instant gratification. It is working very well and we all have a lot fun. I am constantly doing experiments with all of our equipment (just bought a laser) and he is getting into it. Ha... who sez us old guys cannot lead. Gene
You know that if you would like to come back to 3Dsignforum it has been discussed and you are welcome.
David Iannone
05-31-2016, 10:11 AM
Joe,
Great examples of the use of DiBond. And also the role on textures as well. I had not considered the expansion and contraction to I will certainly keep that in mind in future pocket signs. In the future I plan to try to incorporate some roll on textures are you have explained in prior posts. My problem right now is manpower. I work alone and manage to make ends meet but I have been burdened down over the years falling back on the "fastsigns" mentality I started at age 15. I am not an artist by any means, but I can set type and make boring sign layouts for customers that approve and buy them every day, and to be honest with you I am wanting to be more creative. Artist and creative are two different things to me. I consider myself creative, and a problem solver. If you were to design one of your dimentional signs for example, I could take your vision/rendering and bring it to life in my shop. I have of course an old SB, 2 - 54" largeformat printers, vinyl cutter, laminator.....and the list goes on and on from the last 26 years of being a part of the sign industry. I of course started the the franchise shop when vinyl lettering was being cut on the old gerber 4b plotters. Flexisign, yes it is THE BEST for sign guys in my opinion. I used Gerber software and plotters and gerber edge for many years, but flexisign does it all including the rip like you said. I sure with I could toolpath for CNC from it. Of course I have Aspire but for me is overkill right now, but I hope to one day use more of the advanced features. Those of us like Gene and yourself have seen so many changes in our industry over all the years, but it seems like things are moving faster now a days. I purchased a new 54" printer a few months ago and instead of getting a second eco solvent I went with one of the new HP Latex printers. I was very hesitant at first and other firends I have in the industry said to stay away from Latex, but I have to tell ya Joe, the printer is just great. Faster print times, since water is the carrier liquid versus solvent the heaters cure it and it comes out cured and ready to laminate. Scratch resistance is excellant and there is no issue with the inks being dull like some say on the internet. They are glossy enough for me.
Dave
There's no suffering for the arts going on here.
The field is wide open for creative dimensional sign artists. That's because it takes time and dedication that most people aren't going to do. To get ahead in this business you gotta hone your skills and techniques. It's just like a professional musician or athlete you can't be at your best on a some time basis. Everyone should find their comfort level. I choose to rub shoulders with the best artists in the field. In the same way other professionals gravitate and share their knowledge with other experts. I know this isn't for everyone.
David Iannone
05-31-2016, 10:46 AM
Gene,
Partnership, you bring up a good topic at least in my case. When I left the franchise after working there 8 years, my Dad helped me out and cosigned a lone for a plotter and software, some startup materials, and away I went. We were partners, but I handled everything since he already had a sheet metal business, when I need a hand he would help me and vice versa. I used some space in his shop, and in the first few years we put an addition on his building for the sign shop. My sister came on board and was my designer so in the beginning it was just us two. Before I knew it I had another guy helping production and in our biggest year there was 8 of us including my sister and I. I am from DE and that is where the business was.
During some of this time I met my wife of almost 16 years now in october. She is a nurse and was doing 3 month travel assignments in different areas. She is from GA. We lived in DE for 5 years of marriage and ended up moving back to GA to be close to her side of the family. My dad and I split up the equipment, sold the company vehicles, he kept the customer base and has been handling what comes in the door in DE for signs, but sheet metal is his bread and butter. He has enough manpower now a days to handle it all.
So, as of a few weeks ago I come to find out while I was away on a fishing trip with my brother in law on an away lake for two days my wife had another man over to our home for a few hours then they went out somewhere.....and returned at 1:45am. My daughter told me this, she is 14 and she was home. I have video surveillance of the exterior of my home so I have the guy arriving, the two of them leaving and returning. She said she didn't cheat but I just don't care. I have lost all respect and trust for her and actually just filed for divorce as of friday (my birthday) We have been miserable for years, and I had a injury where I fell off a ladder about 14' and broke my leg bad, bad. Bones came out of the skin and went into the mud. Bone infection for years they almost had to amputate. roughly 5 years to get to where I am now which is good. I have even started climbing step ladders again. But I was distant during those years, and tryed to keep focus on doing signs one day again. But that don't give her the right to "cry on another mans shoulder" so to speak.
I am having a very hard time with it, but the one thing that has kept my chin up is my daughter and the little bit of sign business I have, and family and friends. I have more and better friends down here in GA than I ever had in DE, and I really like it here. I live 2 minutes from the lake.
SO....Partnership, There is a large sign company here in my town that sends me all his CNC and digital printing. He does illuminated signs and everything. We have talked about teaming up over the years but we never nail down any numbers. After my divorce I am thinking for real of revisiting the partnership with him. My dad says don't do it, but nobody knows how sad it is to work in a shop all day alone with the talent I have when I could be helping in bigger projects. I would potentially be his partner, he has design, production staff etc. Potentially I bring in all my equipment, and I take over running production in every phase. I will run the CNC plotters, printers, etc. Teach others to run laminator, make signs the way I want them done and he gets out and sells. (he is one hell of a salesman)
I could see myself being a part of a large creative team and that sounds like so much fun. The question is how do I make sure I am rewarded for my efforts to where I dont feel regret about not being my own boss anymore?
How did you partner up? Did he bring money or equipment in? Is he on some type of commission and or salary? What share in your company? Any inspiration you can give me on this topic I appreciate.
Sorry for such a long and depressing post but I just had to get it off my chest. I have some friends here on this forum who I have spoke with some on the phone, in email, and met in person. This is a great group of folks here, and a good Forum.
Dave
David Iannone
05-31-2016, 10:56 AM
We got the first sign back up yesterday just before dark. I took a pic of it this morning but the sun wasnt on it gleaming off the aluminum letters. I will get better pics this afternoon as we take the the second sign this afternoon. The one that is busted up in the pic is the next one.....that one is gonna be even more fun since it is broke. The first one was in real good shape compared to some of the other ones.
Dave
David Iannone
05-31-2016, 11:06 AM
Joe,
Question for you. This subdivision was started in the mid 80's and the monuments and signs were done at the same time. This whole time I was thinking when they did these that they cut the rubber stencil off the plotter. But I realized I was about 11 years old when these signs were fabricated. There was no plotters. How was this kind of work done before plotters? There are minor differences from one to the next, hopefully wont be a problem, maybe tweak a vector here and there.
Would you have hand cut rubber stencil from a paper template after it was hand drawn and pounce wheel run over it then chalk is up, then hand cut?
Dave
Those were furn times without a computer. It was a simple and fast process to make a sandblasted sign. After the glue-up and application of sandblast mask we would project the our image, using the overhead projectord and off we went for the sandblasting. I can tell by your photo's the person blasting these signs didn't have a large enough compressor. That's evident by the shallow blast. With 185CFM air supply the "latter Wood" is removed along with the hard wood grain. I always go down a 1/2" or more. It makes painting the letters with a roller much easier.
Although we rely on the router for out woodgrain, on PVC, it doesn't look nearly as good.
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=28361&stc=1
GeneMpls
05-31-2016, 02:17 PM
Dave, partnership is a slippery slope for sure. I was in a 3 way partnership in an autobody shop (my specialty was restoring 63- 67 Corvettes) and after 20 years we were all in partnership with different people than we were when we started. It is tough to balance expectations and ambition- especially as I am 70 and my daughter is almost 50 and our new person is 30. He is hungry, which we need, and I am not (retired 7 years and still work 7 days a week- but I am well situated) and my daughter is in between.
This young man came from a signshop that we did a lot of business with (which folded) first the ex-owner worked for us for a couple years in the summer and when he graduated legal school he recommended his ex employee- who then worked for us part time while he completed graphic design school. So he is very well suited for the job- but what is just as important- he is very smart and a very nice young man. He actually likes to learn from me and another old phart employee (who used to paint Corvettes for me 35 years ago) who is very talented in any artistic pursuit.
He is so talented that I felt I had to keep him here if I would ever be able to ease up my workload so I can do more of what I want to do (while being here to help out) - so he got a very favorable deal. He gets a % of the company stock every year and full partnership pay and benefits. Like my t-shirt at my 70th birthday party said ' I plan to live forever... so far, so good.
Sorry to hear of your troubles, and I can sympathize with working alone being little fun. And enjoying every day is the most important thing.
Alex Naumenko
05-31-2016, 04:27 PM
Dave sorry to hear what happened with you. My lawyer told me once "partnership it's only one ship which does not sail well. "
Despite that I am 50% partner in my sign business. Make sure there is no "other way" for you to run your business before you agree.
If they can supply enough work for you just give them very good wholesale price and keep friendly relationship.
And if you are really want to cross that bridge hire a lawyer to help you with partnership agreement.
Dave,
Congratulations on the excellent job you did. I know this is an eye opener for many. Once you get with the techniques for doing this kind of work it becomes lot of fun and profitable. Work like this is one of my favorite.
For years I've enjoyed helping sign businesses like yours. This kind of work helps build lots of different skills. Not only that it also increases knowledge of materials. One techniques I've not mentioned is the addition of cleats to the sign back. This will help in keeping the sign strait and allow moisture to escape.
Please try to rotate your photo's so I don't have to stand on my head.
Joehttp://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=28362&stc=1
David Iannone
06-05-2016, 07:00 PM
Thanks Joe, you are the inspiration and reason I quoted this job as a refurbish. Otherwise I would have just quoted new. I took a bit of a leap of faith yes, but what the heck I was up for a challenge. The worst that would have happened is I would have lost money on the job (which has happened at times over the years, but I still would have learned something.)
The large sign shop in town I do all their CNC and printing for drove by the first one and said he was very, very impressed.....haha. He said, "damn, looks better than new and with alum faces and backer board it will be there forever.......:) He and I have become good friends and business associates since we met a few years ago. He actually had the chance to quote this job but declined since this is the subdivision that I live in and he knew this was more about pride to me. He is a good guy. He also said he would have just quoted new ones.
Come to find out after the first one was installed the member of my civic association in charge of this project told me I was the only shop who quoted to refurbish them. There are 5 members on the board and he said one member specifically said "there is no way he can just glue them back together, sand and repaint and make them work. Well.....the member in charge of this went to bat for me. He explained that he had visited my shop and seen my equipment and in talking with me he felt I was a professional. He also said this man is a member of our community why would we not give him a chance, he told them "we are not sign professionals".
I have sign number 2 down right now and it has some issues. They are fixable, I have two questions for you, but will wait till I take close up photos to ask your opinions. Pictures tell more of a story sometimes than words. Oh, and I will make sure to rotate them right....hehe
Dave
David,
The trick to make these pay off is to spend as little time as possible getting them back where they came from. Like I've said before the price is about half what a new sign would cost. Using today's materials and good techniques they can look better than new.
This forum is so un-eventful I'm sure everyone would like to see several photo's as you go along. I'm starting a new project next week for an apartment addition and will be sending a few pix in also.
David Iannone
06-07-2016, 11:41 AM
Joe,
Looking forward to the pics.
This one is a mess. I have it out baking in the sun today to dry it out. Once dry I plan to secure it to the Bot and machine off 1/4" at a time until I get back to good wood, then glue, blast, sand, backer board, prime, paint, alum faces and so forth.
My question is on the glue joint. You mentioned bondo/fiberglass 50/50 mixture. Is the last photo correct stuff?
I realize I need a lot of it, and also as you mentioned as it cures I will hand sculpt the grain on the face at the right time during the curing process.
Dave
Dave,
Can't tell what we have here. Please take a pix of the whole sign. It looks like a real mess and may not be a candidate to repair.
You can't glue rotten wood to anything. I often take the sign over to the table saw to cut away questionable wood. Although this will often leave lettering altered it's still necessary to get down to good wood. I'll see if I can't find a photo showing the repair like this. The question of the amount of time for repair as opposed to starting over is in question.
If you mix 50-50 bondo and resin, then add the catalysts, you will have about ten minutes to pour it in the cracks. This isn't a glue it's a filler. There will be a time where you can take a sharp chisel and carve away any excess. In my last workshop I did a demo on letters that needed reshaping. Works like a dream. Will find a photo or two showing the process.
David Iannone
06-07-2016, 01:53 PM
Ok, I got it on the filler now, I was of course confused there.
I spent about 10 minutes doing just a quick scrape. It will need some more but I will let it continue to dry today. I definatley was overthinking the part about putting it on the bot to machine it. No need for that it looks like, just some hand tools and sander.
Unfortunately, I have no clause in there to replace new since I wanted to take on this job and learn, so I am in the process of learning. I will do whatever I have to on these. I dont mind spending whatever amount of time needed to repair this if possible. Cut it, saw it whatever. Going forward I will know what to look for thats for sure.
I think I might remember what you are talking about with filling in letters after repair. I think it was way back, but was it something like take clay or putty and roll it and shape it around area to patch letter and pour into that?
Dave
David Iannone
06-07-2016, 01:56 PM
I dont know what is wrong with these pictures. I rotate them they are still wrong. I dont rotate them and they are still wrong?
Still can't tell if this is a salvage job.
To make money you can't waste time. Gotta get down to the good wood. I'd rent a big High Pressure washer and blast the heck out of it. It will dry out fast once the pithy wood is gone. Then you'll know where the soft rotten spots are. You'll waste time scraping. It's going to take a blast to get down to the important area's
When shooting photo's with a cell phone, keep it level. Otherwise export it in photoshop to rotate.
Flexi does do routing and toolpaths but it's a separate program called Enroute. It will integrate with Flexi to some degree. I don't think Flexi is that great myself... If I was starting out I would look at Illustrator, Coreldraw and Signlab. But that's just me...
rb99,
What do you use to but vinyl?
One of the reasons Flexi became popular was you could send your files directly to a plotter. Today it's strong suite is Ripping for large color prints.
I have Illustrator, Photoshop, Corel and at one time I had Enroute. Very few guys on this forum use it since there is precious advantage over the other 3d programs. Expensive too.
Please post some of what you're doing.
mtylerfl
06-10-2016, 08:38 AM
I dont know what is wrong with these pictures. I rotate them they are still wrong. I dont rotate them and they are still wrong?
Hi David,
When you take your photos in Portrait mode, make sure the phone's shutter button (or Start Button as Apple calls it) is at the BOTTOM of the phone when you take your photo. When you take photos in Landscape mode, make sure the button is on your RIGHT-hand side. That way, your photos will not need rotating. (BTW, these rules apply when taking video also.)
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