Pistol grip texture

[Burkhardt]

Here is my problem: I don't own a gun and don't care about guns so I don't know much about it.
But my son does and he asked me if I could cut him a set of new grips for his Walther PPK from some pretty wood. Seems easy enough to duplicate the plastic shells that are on there now but I am wondering about the diamond texture. I would have to map some kind of grid pattern onto the 3-d surface and cut with a v-bit (not sure how to do this wit VcarvePro) or probably scan the machined surface with a probe and warp a grid pattern with my machine control software. Or maybe I can convince him that this texture is highly over-rated?
Anyway, how is this normally done?

[Davo]

https://grabcad.com/library/walther-ppk

https://grabcad.com/library/walther-ppk-training-gun-1

http://www.turbosquid.com/FullPreview/Index.cfm/ID/434538

[steve_g]

Gert…
You can make your grips as a 3D model, make your hatch pattern as a closed vector, and use the aspire/V-carve feature to “project toolpath onto 3D model”
SG

[myxpykalix]

check out ebay for a 3d model already made
Business & Industrial>Manufacturing & Metalworking>Woodworking>Other Woodworking










Art (http://www.ebay.com/sch/Art-/550/i.html)
>
Direct from the Artist (http://www.ebay.com/sch/Direct-from-the-Artist-/60435/i.html)
>
Other Art from the Artist (http://www.ebay.com/sch/Other-Art-from-the-Artist-/20158/i.html)

[Burkhardt]

Gert…
You can make your grips as a 3D model, make your hatch pattern as a closed vector, and use the aspire/V-carve feature to “project toolpath onto 3D model”
SG


Yay, that is what I was looking for! I thought only Aspire can do that but it was there right in front of my eyes and I never noticed the check box.

Thanks!!

Next question: assuming I get that part done from quality hardwood (I am considering Mulberry) how to finish such a texture? Obviously it can not be sanded. Can I seal it with CA glue, harden and then re-cut the same tool path? Or just Danish Oil?

[srwtlc]

Gert,

I don't see why you couldn't seal/harden/recut. I'd recommend Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. You can get it in a bottle or spray can. I've got both and have used the bottle for the first few coats, buffing out with 0000 steel wool between coats, and then use the spray after that for as many more coats as desired (buffing in between each coat again).

[Xray]

check out ebay for a 3d model already made


Any examples of gun grip models on ebay, I sure can't find any ?

[Davo]

X-ray - I posted 3 links to some models - they have tons more

[Xray]

You apparently posted files for the weapons themselves, I was thinking more of just grips.

[Davo]

The pieces can all be turned off and isolated ... Depending on software used

https://grabcad.com/library/1911-grips

https://grabcad.com/library/beretta-gun-s-grips

[Xray]

Thanks, 1911 grips I have and have made many pairs, managed to even see a few.
The Walther I have seen before, cool design but it is the gun frame with a few bullets and no grips. Beretta, appears you have to have actual stock grips to reproduce an accurate pair, the stl wanted to open up 9" thick.

I use aspire, and see no option to turn anything on/off but the model itself. Not complaining they are free, but of limited use for most ,,, I'd rather have a paid file that is specific and scaled ect.

[Burkhardt]

Well, that took some work. A forum member sent me an stl file that was great help to get the shape right. But I had to recreate the solid model in my CAD system (made a loft body for it) anyway to add all required features and get a smoother surface and outline.
Then I took it to Vcarve pro as new high-resolution stl file for the 3d part and as dxf for the specific features. These PPK grips need a few precisely positioned recesses and protrusions to match with the steel frame and allow for some critical parts motion.
Then created the diamond pattern, Walther logo and monogram to be projected onto the 3d-model. Took me only some 3 evenings :eek:

Cutting the parts was done in no time. I tried a scrap piece of acacia so far and it came out quite nice (and fits). Not sure if I even make another one.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EwgZIuIWsnaSltZGpix_re_kf77ZEEklY_6bN7A6-DzZ8MG5lOnoerQbpmjTYripmg5C-cJaA=w1920-h1080-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WF4y2x2KMuAIi0ua9osYfEJ1BOA9Izp0n1N8Wr4yD4usntTqL_ _o50Ls-8SWd-KqzdpUBWAb7Q=w1920-h1080-no

[scottp55]

I didn't realize there was that much going on on the backside of the grip.
Nice job G! (I hope he appreciates the work).
Are the monograms in a pocket, or is that the original surface and then VCarved?
VERY glad for you that they fit:)
scott

[dmidkiff]

Those look very nice.

[Xray]

I have found that the 1911 grips need additional work on the backside in order to fit, after getting a pistol in hand.

* They need an angled notch cut out at the top on one side, easy enough to do with a router table
* The holes need to be countersunk not only from the top but bottom as well, if you don't they will not sit flush.

[Xray]

Ooops wrong thread, my bad

[Burkhardt]

...Are the monograms in a pocket, or is that the original surface and then VCarved?....

This is carved or v-carved into the actual machined 3d-model surface, no pocket. The Vectric method of projection works pretty good, however since the cutting depth is quite shallow (especially for the grid border and the Walther logo) I had to adjust the z-zero a tiny bit for best result. A difference of only 3/1000" depth makes already a visible difference. The process was as follows:
- plane the blank to 0.4" thickness (this used to be a small cutting board from the 99 cent store)
- drill holes at the 4 corners by hand
- vacuum chuck a somewhat larger piece of wood onto the table as "spoilboard" and surface it
- screw the blank onto the spoilboard
- CNC machine 2 dowel holes through the blank into the spoilboard for flipping later and machine outside recesses for safety and magazine release button (1/8" upcut EM)
- rough the 3d-body (1/8" downcut EM)
- finish cut the 3-d body (1/8" ball end) and light surface sanding 220 grit to remove bit traces
- carve the lettering, the diamond grid and the outlines (90-deg engraving spade bit)
- flip the blank using dowels and screw down again
- cut the pockets for all inside recesses (2mm downcut EM)
- cut the part free
- remove remaining small fuzzies with a glass fiber eraser
- buff with 0000 steel wool and apply Danish Oil

[feinddj]

A sanding buff works just fine for getting all the edges. I have mine on a mandrel on my lathe but you could use a drill press as well. Always work in the six to nine oclock range if the clock were mounted in your lathe face out. If you don't, your piece will go flying. once you have built up the finish, do what wood turners do to finish their bowls after lacquer. Use a cloth buff, work your way through tripoli, diamon and then caranuba wax to finish it.
like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/350275485756?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

[Burkhardt]

I cut another set into the mulberry wood that I had planned for initially. Not bad and I got the monogram nicer but after all, we decided the acacia wood looks much better on the black steel frame.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AXbRaBmv7Pf4J_b4K3S_0IMwOidSjg8eOMdI0SwbOAuxcH3Sjk 9mA2M22rReo_f3aqob6HEVqQ=w1920-h1080-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/D1xMGoF29sr68_3H3r9de0qrEJKesMyhMi4pL2rDY1O2djbAdp mQDtTDZpaXtR7fZIBEk2L2Qg=w1920-h1080-no

[flatheadyoungin]

Those turned out VERY nice.....something I'd like to make for my ungle and dad.....thanks for sharing the final results!