Feedback wanted…

[steve_g]

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=30335&stc=1 (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8GtiBWUjRyRcTg5dTBVRTVmWWM/view?usp=sharing)


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8GtiBWUjRyRcTg5dTBVRTVmWWM/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8GtiBWUjRyRcTg5dTBVRTVmWWM/view?usp=sharing)

Here’s an article I wrote on inlaying mineral, stone and glass frit. I wrote this in response to questions I was asked in another thread about the process…
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?23818-men-s-valet (http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?23818-men-s-valet)

While this topic isn’t specifically “ShopBot”, A CNC router is certainly integral to the process!

I’m interested in hearing from you! What questions are still unanswered? What part of the process needs more explaining?

Feel free to respond to this request for feedback either publicly here in the forum or by PM.

Thanks!
SG

[James M]

Steve,

Your instructions in the PDF are great. I look forward to trying this technique.

Regards,

J

[scottp55]

Thanks Steve!! :)
Tucked right into my reference library next to working with slabs, and solar kiln!
Bet I spent 2 hours searching for my Rockler thin CA, and inspecting minerals for crushing.
(Cat has hidden thin and medium large Rocklers...and knocked Malachite back on the floor:)
Need a visit to hardware to make a high tech crusher like yours,and get some small Thin CA.

Have you a rough rule of thumb on max depth for the CA method(I'm thinking of a mix of chunks/spaghetti colander screened/window screened)?
I'm thinking of slab cracks that go all or most of the way through 1.5-3" thickness...or even .5-1" stock that do the same...and the best way you may have found to hold the inlay powder from falling through...Tape? 2 sided approach?

WELL DONE!
I'm sure there will be more questions once I start playing:)
scott

[steve_g]

Scott…

I’ve found that with the HD CA I’m using, .060 is max depth when the inlay material is finely ground… much deeper when coarsely ground or using commercial “thin” CA. Building up in stages hasn’t been a problem though.

If I’m filling a through crack, worm hole or rotten spot, I seal one side with foil tape. If one side will not be easy to sand, like the inside of a box, I make do with the finish I get from the foil. I’ll attach a photo illustrating this…

On the box in the attached photos, I poured a small amount of epoxy first, mixed an epoxy turquoise blend and then putty knifed it into place… consequently the turquoise density at the surface isn’t as dense as when you use thin CA soaked into a packed pile of mineral.

SG

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=30336&stc=1http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=30337&stc=1

[scottp55]

Thanks!
I know that was a tough question...but .06" for fine medium and medium/thin box store viscosity gives me a good starting point for a 30 engraving bit flat depth.
The second pic of that Nice chunk of wood with the epoxy answers the other question:)
Need to pick up some West anyways, and looks like some Thin Rockler is in the cards also.
Got a LOT of Mica sheets from Schoonerville, and some of the shellac bonded ones that have seen abuse are falling apart....probably my first epoxy experiment on deep cracks on scrap first as I have so much of it. Lots of native black mica and tourmaline to be found in riprap here also...needs playing:)
NICE .pdf!!
Thanks again!
scott