Scanned jpg to vector

[sawkerf]

What is the best way to turn a scanned blueprint into a machinable vector? I have Insignia 2012 and the latest version of vcarve pro.

I have been trying to get the drawing to upload so you guys can see it but I have not been successful. It appears to be uploading, but when it finishes, the file is not there to drag into the window.

Thank, Kip

[Brady Watson]

Check the help file in Insignia where it talks about "Converting a Bitmap into Vectors" - However it is best to import the picture and trace over the JPG manually to get the best wrap & least number of nodes. There are other programs out there such as Inkscape that you may or may not find easier to work in. There's no shortcut if you want quality vectors.

-B

[khaos]

Also use this awesome tool. This will reduce node count and really help smoothness overall.

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=30609&stc=1

Just my 2¢

[Brady Watson]

I have Insignia 2012 and the latest version of vcarve pro.



Missed that part...Again, read the help file. It will show you step by step how to do it and what settings to change. BUT...as I said earlier, the best results come from manually tracing them and node editing.

-B

[sawkerf]

Forgive my ignorance, but when you say "manual trace", does that mean dragging the mouse around the outline? After this, do you then go around and smooth it all out so to speak?

[robtown]

Forgive my ignorance, but when you say "manual trace", does that mean dragging the mouse around the outline? After this, do you then go around and smooth it all out so to speak?
Yes. Just scan, or take a digital picture of the blueprints and trace over the top to create your vectors.

You try to do a raster to vector conversion of a scanned blueprint with a program, you'll end up with double sided lines.

[Jerry Carney]

Can this be done with v crve desktop 8.517

[Brady Watson]

Can this be done with v crve desktop 8.517

Yes. Image Vectorization VC Desktop (http://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve/features.htm#itracing)

I almost never use the automatic tracing utility in any of the programs. This is because it ALWAYS results in either rounded off corners at one extreme or stair-stepped vectors at the other extreme. Furthermore, it also results in a greater number of nodes than hand tracing with the mouse. That equates to more jagged cutting at the machine, because the machine will resolve even the smallest details present at the node level. Use the utility on a picture and zoom in...You'll notice that there are jaggies and wavy vector paths. Good from far...but far from good. No program can replace the precision of the human eye & brain.

Everyone has their own way of doing it, but I prefer to load the photo and use the polyline tool. I click on the photo in areas where I know a node needs to be to get the overall shape & start wrapping the polyline around it. Since the polyline by default will result in straight spans (lines) - I consider this only 'roughing out' the shape. After I've got a closed polyline (sometimes not) - I will switch over to node editing mode and then change straight lines to bezier curves, arcs and add or remove nodes to get the proper shape. It really doesn't take that long to get a perfect fit & it's good practice to keep your skills up. When I'm done, I have a 'production ready' vector with the LEAST number of nodes and smooth curves; which lend themselves to smooth cutting on the CNC.

Incidentally...the EXACT same thing goes for using the auto-wrap vector tool for wrapping 3D components. It also results in jagged lines because voxels (3d pixels) are cubes...Manually tracing the outline will result in a better 3D cut and 2D perimeter/profile cut...and same thing goes for the cross-section tool if you need to sweep into an existing shape cleanly without 'node streaks' in 3D.

If you want quick - use a tracing tools. If you value your work & want to be known for quality - learn to trace out by hand.

-B

[Brady Watson]

Can this be done with v crve desktop 8.517

Yes. Image Vectorization VC Desktop (http://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve/features.htm#itracing)

I almost never use the automatic tracing utility in any of the programs. This is because it ALWAYS results in either rounded off corners at one extreme or stair-stepped vectors at the other extreme. Furthermore, it also results in a greater number of nodes than hand tracing with the mouse. That equates to more jagged cutting at the machine, because the machine will resolve even the smallest details present at the node level. Use the utility on a picture and zoom in...You'll notice that there are jaggies and wavy vector paths. Good from far...but far from good. No program can replace the precision of the human eye & brain.

Everyone has their own way of doing it, but I prefer to load the photo and use the polyline tool. I click on the photo in areas where I know a node needs to be to get the overall shape & start wrapping the polyline around it. Since the polyline by default will result in straight spans (lines) - I consider this only 'roughing out' the shape. After I've got a closed polyline (sometimes not) - I will switch over to node editing mode and then change straight lines to bezier curves, arcs and add or remove nodes to get the proper shape. It really doesn't take that long to get a perfect fit & it's good practice to keep your skills up. When I'm done, I have a 'production ready' vector with the LEAST number of nodes and smooth curves; which lend themselves to smooth cutting on the CNC.

Incidentally...the EXACT same thing goes for using the auto-wrap vector tool for wrapping 3D components. It also results in jagged lines because voxels (3d pixels) are cubes...Manually tracing the outline will result in a better 3D cut and 2D perimeter/profile cut...and same thing goes for the cross-section tool if you need to sweep into an existing shape cleanly without 'node streaks' in 3D.

If you want quick - use a tracing tools. If you value your work & want to be known for quality - learn to trace out by hand.

-B

[sawkerf]

Importing the scanned document and running the "bitmap to vector" operation proved to be futile. The is way too much "garbage" on the scan to be useful in my opinion. There is too much detail to clean up to make it workable. I tried tracing with the mouse as well, but that too seems a bit tiresome and tedious. I'm wondering if perhaps I could physically trace the image with tracing paper and pencil, then import this new image, thus giving me a much cleaner image to start with. I'm hoping by doing this, the bitmap to vector operation will give me a much nicer image to work with. Anyone ever tried this approach? I think I might have managed to attache the scan in question.

[bleeth]

Other than the image in the center it looks like you are dealing with all geometric shapes with a few small leaves added.
The cross itself and the geometrics can be created with vector lines and 3 point arcs and there are many 3d images of leaves out there.
I would just draw the boundaries of the cross and work on creating it from scratch from there. A grid overlay will go a long way in helping you keep the proportions close to original.
I've seen similar pieces offered as ready to cut files from some of the eastern European designers on E-Bay and the Artcam Forum.

[robtown]

Other than the image in the center it looks like you are dealing with all geometric shapes with a few small leaves added.
The cross itself and the geometrics can be created with vector lines and 3 point arcs and there are many 3d images of leaves out there.
I would just draw the boundaries of the cross and work on creating it from scratch from there. A grid overlay will go a long way in helping you keep the proportions close to original.
I've seen similar pieces offered as ready to cut files from some of the eastern European designers on E-Bay and the Artcam Forum.
The good news is, that besides the middle circle, you only need to trace half of this. Then mirror it over.
also, there is a lot of repeating shapes, so trace one and copy/reposition.
Your options are pretty much 6 in one hand, half dozen in the other.
i don't think hand tracing, scanning, doing the conversion , then clean up will be any quicker than just sitting down and doing it in a drawing program. I've been doing this for almost 20 years.

[sawkerf]

Thanks guys. As I mentioned earlier, I'm mainly a cabinet guy who would love to do more of this type stuff. Given my limited experience, I will probably take an all inclusive approach to drawing this thing out. I do hope to find some ready-made artwork for the leaves and the lamb. You can't tell from the scan, but the lamb in the center is actually a separate piece that will be applied afterwards. Once I figure out the CNC portion, I then get to figure out gold leafing! I'm hoping that won't be too hard. Thanks again for your input!

[Brady Watson]

The good news is, that besides the middle circle, you only need to trace half of this. Then mirror it over.
also, there is a lot of repeating shapes, so trace one and copy/reposition.
Your options are pretty much 6 in one hand, half dozen in the other.
i don't think hand tracing, scanning, doing the conversion , then clean up will be any quicker than just sitting down and doing it in a drawing program. I've been doing this for almost 20 years.

There are pearls of wisdom in there...

Many times we have to reevaluate some of our ideas & thoughts about design. For instance, there must be an idea floating around out there that this type of work is easy...that you, 'just push a button' and you get a perfect facsimile - or something along those lines. If this type of work was that easy, we'd be seeing every product on the market embellished with gorgeous, perfectly aesthetically pleasing decoration - but we don't - because it IS a lot of work to get a good result.

It also depends on how bad you want something (if for personal use) or how much the customer is going to pay (to feed you while doing it) - when it comes to more sophisticated designs. However, as Rob points out - this isn't that complicated of a design & you only have to draw half. (Actually less than that if you consider how many things can be mirrored over...) Aside from the center & acanthus quatrefoil and other little elements, this is pretty straightforward.

I wouldn't be discouraged or intimidated by this design. As James Booth taught me years ago, break the design down into its individual parts. Good design keeps the eye moving...as a designer, if you don't know this, this eye movement can keep you from focusing on replicating it & instead confuse you - making it seem more complicated than it really is. Print out your design & color in or label all the common shapes that you only have to draw once...You will quickly see it isn't as hard to do as you may have thought!

-B