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View Full Version : Toolmarks now, where there were none,...



chiere
09-06-2007, 10:54 AM
Arrrrgggg!!!!!

So, I moved from cutting EPS foam w/ a 1/4" ballnose bit, to cutting HD foam, 15 lb, with a 1/8" ballnose bit. I'm using the machine relief function in ArtCAM. The pieces are 3/4" deep, I'm only going 200 ipm, and stepping over .008". Everything was perfect. The bottem of the finished work was as smoothe as a baby's butt.

Alas, all good things must come to an end. After cutting 10 pieces, it was discovered that the square was off by 1/8 inch. And the short story is, due to a lack of care in table assembly (over my constant protests, and ignored requests for maintanance) the table needed serious readjustment. No shims or levels were used during assembly, and so the wheels (where they touched the rails) have made sharp peaks and shaved edges on the rails. And, of course, now that it is critical, nothing is square,....

So my boss put the shop apes to fixing it. One fella takes pride in his work, and has done his best to make it right. He's used a level, he's used shims, and he's even ground off the ridges on the sides of the rails. All the wheels now stay in constant contact with the rails. It's even cutting (almost) square.

But the tool marks are horrendous. I can see every pass. It looks like I am using a 1/8" ballnose, and stepping it over 1/16"!

I did put a level on everything, and there does appear to be a slight twist in the two rails, (Front left is 1/16 low and front right is 1/16" high, with the back end being the reverse of that.)

At first, I thought I had just pathed something wrong, but I went back and used a file I had already cut before the 'fix' that had cut perfect, and now it's just awfull!!!!

What do I try next?? (besides getting rid of the twist) Thanks!

Brady Watson
09-06-2007, 01:25 PM
Cheri,
The 1st thing that you will want to do is determine if the roughness in cuts are a result of rough rail surfaces or worn pinions. It sounds to me like your rails needed the maintenence done to them. It would be worth it to get into the habit of running some sandpaper and a scotch pad down them to keep them clean and burr-free. Rough surfaces on the outer edges of the rails will cause cut degradation. Also be sure that the peak of each rail has a slight flat to them as this can cause the wheels to lift, and make it more susceptable to 'bumps' if there is debris on the rails.

I would drop both X motors so that the pinion gears are no longer engaged, and run the gantry back and forth on the rails. Look, listen and feel what is going on. Note where there is any roughness or where wheels appear to be lifting to give you an idea as to where things need to be adjusted. When all is good with no motors engaged, swing the motors back up (after replacing pinions & applying fresh grease) and you should be back in business.

Pinions...if you have not yet replaced pinions and you do a lot of 3D, I can practically gaurantee that you need a new set on at least the X & Y axes. Pinions and racks should have a nice coating of grease on them, and if they are run dry, your pinions are good for about 2 or 3 weeks until they need replacing again.

-B