Rail repair

[kaaboom_99]

Hi guys. About a year ago, I made a rookie mistake and have been living with the results since. I had an order for (60) plaques that were 8 x 10". I made a jig and just swapped out the carved blanks for a week.
These plaques were were images much like the lithos, constant toolpath the whole surface with a 0.125" ballmill. Literally 10's of millions lines of code cut in a very small area on my PRT96.
The problem, as I can assume you will see where this is going, is that a I have a HUGE amount of wear (about 0.050" over a 24" area)on the 'x' rails.
I have been trying to figure out the best way to repair the damage. Right now I avoid placing any job that may require the bearings to use this area.
Anyone have a suggestion?

[richards]

Perry,
If you can't use that part of your rails, it looks like you'll have to either replace the rails or find a local shop that can grind them for you. If you're up for a challenge, you might try replacing the rails with the hardened rails that Bishop/Wisecarver sells.

[paco]

I second Mike's idea for the Bishop/Wisecarver upgrade.

You'll have to figure some specs. but you'll know where to ask for help and ideas right!?

Keep us post on whatever route you go.

[kaaboom_99]

Shortly after I had done this damage, I went through Canadian Bearing (local distributer of Bishop/Wisecarver Bearings and rails) and was told the price to "cap" the rails, x & y only, on a PRT was $1600 cdn + taxes. This is why I have put it off.
Do you think a bridgeport is a more viable answer?
I am almost tempted to make a jig for my angle grinder and try that. Think that would yield satifactory results?

[paco]

Depends on your grinding setup... is your idea is to run the JIG on the rail while installed? You could run the JIG along the rack and rail side... that might work.

[mziegler]

Perry, if you have like 8 foot rails and mainly use only one end of the rails. Flip the rails around so the gantry is running on the undamaged end. That would put off the job for another day. Mark

[john_david]

You could buy the hardened track the wheels are designed to run on and either tack weld or bolt them to the existing rails, the are hardened on the edge and pretty reasonably priced and you can get them at any bearing supply place ,E mail me if you cannot find them
JD

[steve4460]

Hi Perry
Call shopbot and get replacement rails . I am shure that they are a lot cheaper and easyer to install then going trough the other $1600 option .

Bot on

[kaaboom_99]

Thanks guys.

Mark: This is the option that I am presently using. I still would like to get the repair done.

John: The $1600 cdn IS for the proper hardened caps for the B/W "W2" style bearings. Prices seem to always be inflated here in Canada.

Stephan: I have as yet to contact Shopbot. I know that due to dimensions, shipping is going to be a killer. (Wife works for Post Office).

I appreciate ALL input as it helps me weigh in my options before I tackle this daunting task.

Any other thoughts?

[fleinbach]

Perry,

I purchased X-car rails in June of 2005 from shopbot to convert my Prtalpha 60 X 120 into a 60 X 144 the cost with shipping was $1,566.00

[harryball]

We had a welder come out and build up an edge on a loader bucket. He built it up with a weld and ground it to shape. It occurs to me that may be something you could have done. I believe our bill was about $350 and this was a large cutting edge that needed a good bit of build up. I was told the welded build up is harder than regular steel.

Just an idea.

Robert

[danhamm]

Hey..Perry just a thought..At one of the industrial auctions locally..I purchased a planer blade sharpener..I was after a 20 hp. cyclone..got it but a lot of junk with it I wouldn't be afraid to dress my track with it....what is it..its a precision track with a 1 hp grinder on it..about 4 ft long..basically..So I would look around your area for a saw filer or shop catering to the trade..cheers Dan

[john_david]

Perry,
What length rails do you have?
I have some 10' pieces I will sell you for way cheaper than $1600,I have had them a long time but
they have never been used on anything.
Let me know if you are interested,Of course you will have to pay fpr pickup and shipping

Good Luck
JD

[kaaboom_99]

Hi Dan, John
Dan: Budget constraints force me to procrastinate or find the most economical/sure method of addressing this. My botting is part-time and my 9-5 job may require a relocation (Ford is closing and mothballing local plants).
(btw, great to hear from you Dan!)

John: That is a very gracious offer. The X rails are 10 ft but my 5 ft Y rails also need attention.
Once again, financial constraints prevent me from putting out virtually any finances at the moment.

I do appreciate the suggestions. This is the reason I posted. I will be checking out the possibilties suggested here. Just don't know when.

[bob_dodd]

Hi Perry, You could cap your X & Y rails yourself ,last summer I capped .25" x 2.5" x 2.5" angle iron,(used this size angle to gain some height under x car as I machine 7 peices of 6" x 12" x 42" at a time on a regular bases, see picture) to convert my 48 x 48 Alpha to 48" x 96" , I used hardened Bishop Wisecarver narrow rails , You could set these on top of your rails that you have now. They have mounting holes every 3", I drilled & tapped the angle, it's a bit of work, but the cost is not much, they come in 6 ft. lengths, @ that time I also installed new rack & pinion gears. .5" x .5" sq. these also come in 6 ft. lengths
3763
3764
3765 I have been running the bot for over 7 months this way hope this helps Bob
3766

[Brady Watson]

Nice job, Bobby!

Hey FYI, I contacted BWC last week & you can get the rails made custom for not much more than the standard 6' ones, up to 20' long. I think to do my 5 X 16', both 18' rails, plus 4 pcs 84" long for the Y, and a couple pieces for the Z, was just under $900. (Pretty cheap when you think about it...and NO seams to deal with) This is for hardened steel drilled single edge rail. I didn't think that the stainless was worth 2X the price.

-B

[paco]

Guys,

would you shim the wheel or move the rails toward inside for this upgrade?
What about adjustment; adjust the angle or the rail?

Bob,

what's that large piece of material you're working on on the above picture?! What's it for?
Nice work on the upgrade! I can see some other interesting customizations there...

[Brady Watson]

Paco,
Just shim the wheels inwards...It looks like that's how Bob did it. Fasten the rail to the angle (it has a reference 'ledge' on it) and then adjust the entire assembly in or out if needed...At least that's how I would do it.


3767

Since it's steel (induction hardened only where the wheels ride), I bet that it might be possible to tack weld the entire rail strip all the way down the angle iron instead of precisely drilling & bolting thru all of those holes. I bet you could minimize heat distortion by TIG welding them on...and plug welding thru the holes.

-B

[bob_dodd]

Paco That is 7 pcs. 6x12x42 in the bot , there is a 27" raduis on each end ,usualy i make about 50 pcs. at a time . they are used to chock in place 54" dia.x 100 ft. long concrete pipe on a barge for shipping
3768 Bob

[kaaboom_99]

Thanks for the info bob, nice gig.
I think I will have to re-visit my local B/W dealer and get some better pricing from them.
Thanks to all who have put forth ideas for me to consider.