Connection with Tool Lost

[aaronl]

Hello from New Zealand I am having problems with my ShopBot when it is going to cut a file are about 5-10 secs it comes up with a message like
this "Communication with Tool Lost" can anyone help me with this problem. All feedback would be a great help.
Many Thanks Aaron Lambie.

[seaside]

Aaron,

Don't know if this is it or not, but I've heard of folks having communication trouble when they use a newer version of the software with an older version of the control box firmware. If you're using one of the newest versions of the software you should be using the firmware that came in the download; load 21 if you're using version 205 or 220.

To find out which firmware version you're using, type UD then look for the number after "CB ver".

Hope this helps,

Bill Young

[birdsofplay]

Although I've been cuttng OK I have had a
certain "hesitation" when doing the X-Y zeroing.
The X would go-to-stop OK but the Y would ...
go a little , stop, go a little, stop then
go-to-stop eventually. ???

I thought this was wierd but since cutting was OK
I just ignored it.
I WILL certainly head out to the shop and try the newer "load" immediately.

Thanks for "reading the instructions" FOR US :-)

[birdsofplay]

OK ...
I did the load21.exe and experienced NO hesitations
as I explained before ...
so I guess THAT was my problem.

Hope your fix is as easy, Aaron :-)

[cabinetspecialties@hotmail.com]

Anyone here know about a website/forum for owners of Digital Tools CNC machines?

[tinojr]

I am having problems with the ff:
1.Z axis, is not accurate. ( having problems with the depth in cutting.
2.theres no ground with my bosh router. for zeroing. the Z
3 the output of my file to the router is always flip to the other side( mirror)( using Vector cam)

[jkforney]

tinojr
Have no idea what command ff: is. Perhaps you could elaborate.
If your z axis is not accurate check that you have the right numbers for your z pinion.

You don't ground the router, you ground the table and the control box.

When you cut and paste in vector make sure you have not left the mirror x or y box checked. As a matter of fact get in the habit of clicking reset when you are pasteing. If your problem still exists email me with more detail and perhaps the file and I'll try to help.

John Forney

[tinojr]

John
I set the units in inches, but the actual movement for the Z axis is in mm. ( theres no prolem with the X and Y just The Z).

I could not establish zeroing the material using the aluinum plate( attached plate with wire to the computer.) before cutting the material.

Is there something ( step)I miss before cutting a file?

[jkforney]

tinojr
If you have set your machine in inches (vd) and it is moving in mm, I think you need to call shopbot directly.
Are you using s_zero.sbp in shopbot parts? Do you have the wire connected to input #1. And last have you tried to move you z in inches and measured it to see that it is moving the correct distance?

Also you might consider calling me at 419 947-8186 if you are still having problems. By the way what is your name?

John Forney

[Ted Hall, ShopBot Tools]

Hi Tinojr,

The Z-zero plate may not be working for you if your router has a plastic body and is not making electrical contact with the tool. The aluminum-body Bosch that we have seems to work OK, but I know they make other models with plastic bodies which might not. [I'm assuming that your tool and control box are both properly connected to your system ground, e.g. conduit...]

To get around the problem with a plastic router, you'll need to simply temporarily connect (ground) your collet or bit to the tool. If you make up a wire (say about 2 feet) that has an alligator clip on both ends, this will be easy to do. When you're ready to do the Z-zero just clip the bit with one alligator and clip the other to an exposed metal part on the tool. You can always test to make sure the Input switch sensing is working by picking up the Zero plate and touching it to the bit -- The input number (typically #1) should turn blue on the upper left panel in the ShopBot software.

On the more general issue of your Z movement distance ... Is: 1) the Z movment repeatable (always go the same distance when you ask it to) and just not going the correct distance; Or 2) the Z movement not repeating correctly ??

If 1) then we just need to get the right unit values for your Z. Make sure that you put the Unit Value in before switching to mm. If you can't find the documentation with the correct unit values, let us know and we can look up what the values are for your tool.

If 2) then there is likely to be some sort of mechanical problem (binding?) that is causing your Z axis to stall. We'll need to figure that out.

[tinojr]

Ted,John
I installed an aluminum adaptor to hold the boshrouter (Because of the small diameter of the boshtool)the bosh aluminum body is attached directly to the aluminum bracket of the Z.

Anyway I will review your recommendation

Thank you

Bye the way. I am the operator for the router.
My Boss is still in the US . He met You at the show.(Joseph from the PHIL)

[billp]

tinojr, Mabuhay...I have used a Bosch (1617EVS) in one of my machines for almost two years now. As long as the aluminum body is mounted within the "holding plate" of the Shopbot I have had no problem with the zeroing plate process.Actually I am using small wooden shims to align the router properly, and my guess is that the stainless hose clamps are really what is supplying the "ground" for the tool. Have you tried to go into the file editor (FE command)to look at the zeroing file and make sure that the thickness of your plate is the same as what your program shows? In more than a few cases people have a zeroing plate which is 1/8" (.125),but I believe the default value in the "z_zero"program is .25, it might be worth a look...Bill P.

[tinojr]

John
The flip problem is solved!
I will ground the wire to input # 1. Wheres that?

[jkforney@yahoo.com]

TinoJr
You ground your tool and put the wire that attaches to the plate to either input 1 or 2. If you use input 1 you don't have to change the s_zero program as long as you use a 1/4 in plate.

Input #1 is the second hole on the input side. I beleive that you can find a picture or assembly instructions in your manual. The first hole is the 5 volt input. Hope this helps.

Just checked my manual and it shows a picture of the old style inputs. Does anyone know if the newer manual shows the latest setup?

John Forney

[dmdraper]

John/TinoJr;

My machine is brand new and the input connector slots from left to right (as viewed with the connector at the top of the circuit board) are: Ground, #4, #3, #2, #1, 5v+.

Dave D.

[kaaboom_99]

Hi guys. Hope some one can help me. Our family has just move to a new house which required my PRT96 to be disassembled and re-assembled. Just tried to cut my first file after getting things set up. The "air" cuts are fine without any problems. Seconds after I attempt to cut with router running, I get the "Lost communication error" I am using the record and play function and the only thing different and causing problems is the when the router is running. I have been using this same router for the last 6 months prior to moving without any problem. I have looked at the error.log and the problem.log but need further assistance to help diagnose the problem.

[david@thecarpentershelper.com]

Perry make sure your router is grounded properly and that the shop bot is also as you can get "electrical noise" that could cause the control box to loose conection with the computer. Dave in Wyoming

[kaaboom_99]

I am going to assume that with all the checking and testing (which is far to involved to go into detail here) that my router has got a "bad" ground internal. Went out today and purchased the Makita RF1101. It's going to take a couple of days now before I can get to the CNC again to mount this new router. (read "honey do list")
Let you know how we make out and what I find when the old router is stripped down.
Thanks for the insight David.
Perry

[gerald_d]

Perry, you are not likely to see anything wrong inside your router. In fact, your router probably has NO ground internal. If anything, only the case will be grounded.

The reason that we are always talking about good ground connections, is to suppress and shield electrical noise coming from the brushes of the router. The SB is susceptible to the interference from the router and good grounding everywhere reduces the interference. You may simply have forgotten to reconnect a ground wire after your move - this connection could be on the control box, the SB, the router, the wall plug, the vacuum system, etc.

[kaaboom_99]

Thanks for the insight, Gerald but two out of three routers work fine and have proved productive since my last post. Thanks again for the input.

[frank]

Hi Perry,

We have run seen instances where the brushes in the router have worn and started arcing, causing the tool to have communication problems and miss steps. Check your brushes to see if they are worn.

[kaaboom_99]

Hi Frank.
That was my initial thought as the motor did seem to be arcing more excessive than normal and seem a little sluggish. Like I said, no time to get into an indepth troubleshooting mode. Bought a new router to meet production and will look at this problem later. If fixable, I will keep this router as a spare, otherwise I toss it.