Where to buy t-slot table top?

[stargategfx]

Having a hard time locating a T-Slot table top clamping system, anybody know of any dealers in Canada?

[kerrazy]

here is a question maybe some one could respond to?
what about t slot used in clothing stores to hold waterfall clothing racks? it comes in 4X8 mdf sheets.
dale

[rjguinn@optonline.net]

Boyd,
Try Lee Valley Tools in Canada. www.leevalley.com (http://www.leevalley.com)
Jeff

[kivimagi]

Could you make one easily with the shopbot? Curious if the t-slot bits work well. Maybe someone has made one around this forum??

[johnny_s]

Dale-
I remember seeing the wood slatwall in another post a ways back. I have a lot of that stuff laying around, never thought to use it though. My guess is if you use it for cutting foam or ULMDF, it might work, but anything that requires a lot of clamping pressure, forget about it. After all, it is only MDF. They do sell metal inserts for the slots, which might actually make the idea much more feasible.

[olecrafty]

Boyd,
Try rockler.com
I buy aluminum T rails and hold down clamps from them. They work well for repetitive work. I use embedded nuts from the back to hold them in place, and remove them when they are not needed. Woodcraft.com also has some listed.

Kaiwa
olecrafty@charter.net (mailto:olecrafty@charter.net)

[dvanr]

Does anyone think this product is too small to use as a T slot on the ShopBot? It is made by Octanorm a supplier of Aluminium extrusions for shop fitting and trade show booths. I know where I can get this, just not sure if it would work.

304
Dimensions are metric, and they come in 5 meter lengths. I believe a cutting service is offered. The part number is W 416. visit Octanorm USA (http://www.octanormusa.com/) for information on distributors or other extrusions.

[mrdovey]

Dick...

With a 1.0 mm wall thickness, it would appear suitable for only the most gentle of operations. It would be strengthened somewhat by gluing it into an exactly machined slot in a really stiff substrate; but I think you'd probably be happier with the heavier T-track offered in various woodworking catalogs.

Morris

[mrdovey]

Boyd...

What do you want to do with this clamping system? Intended use will have a lot to do with selecting a system. For example, I'm looking at cutting T-slots into 1" x 24" x 48" thick aluminum plates so that I can have a minimally solid base on which I can mill stainless steel.

Morris

[gerald_d]

Dick, I also think that T-track is okay for light work. The fact that it is designed for glueing in is a big plus, and you may even end up with better T-track than the stuff that is screwed down every 8" or so.

What is also nice is that it won't destroy the strength of a thick wooden table top when you dado grooves for it.

The thin wall aspect can be improved by using "long" nut sliders to carry over a bigger area.

[ron brown]

According to the drawing, the wall thickness will be 2.0 mm - unless I am getting something wrong.

RonRon_brown

[mrdovey]

Yep. I mid-read and mis-spoke. Even at 2mm (0.079") it seems a bit lightweight to me...

[ron brown]

2mm - 0.07874" is a little light for a clamping flange Morris. Especially when the "bolt" for the clamp will need to be about a #8 or so and have a diameter of 0.1695" The head will be far smaller than the ~14mm inside of the track.

Using a theoredical 80,000 psi "yield" for a steel screw, one could hold ~1,800 pounds per screw. With the proper rail nuts, that rail might work.

I will occationally drill holes in my table and thread them for 1/4" bolts. For jig-type setups that will be used many times, I will use "studs" and put inserts in the table top.

BTW - nylon bolts don't do near the damage to a bit that steel (especially grade 8 bolts) do. I have experience running router bits into bolts, nuts and screws - drywall, steel, brass and bronze.

Ron

[artisan]

There's a pretty good article on T-Track in this month's issue of "American Woodworker" magazine. Suppliers, pricing, specifications and what to look for in general before buying....D

[dvanr]

Thanks for the feedback guys. The T track you suggest, I have not been able to locate here in Sydney/Aust.
Anyone care to share the dimensions of their T-Track? I could then look into rectangular AL tube and slot it with a carbide blade.
I like the longer rail nut idea too. The Octanorm gets some further investigation.
How many rails across the table do you normally use? (Don't say it , I know, "depends on the application"
)I'm thinking 6.

D

[stargategfx]

Thanks very much for all the feedback guys!

[dvanr]

For anyone looking for a local supplier of T track or T rail try the ten suppliers below.
All are pulled from a review of the different types in American Woodworker magazine. May04

FastTrak (http://www.prairieriverwoodworking.com)
Incra (http://www.incra.biz)
MLCS (http://www.mlcswoodworking.com)
Might-T-track (http://www.ttrackusa.com)
Woodstock International (http://www.grizzly.com) see the specialty clamp section under clamps
Hartville Tool (http://www.hartvilletool.com)
Rockler (http://www.rockler.com)
Lee Valley/Veritas (http://www.leevalley.com)
WoodturnersInc (http://www.woodturners.on.ca)
The Woodworker's Choice (http://www.thewoodworkerschoice.com)
Woodworker's Supply (http://www.woodworkers.com) use t channel or t bolt as your search term

The last one listed is made from stamped steel all others are made from extruded aluminium.

DvanR

[podunk]

Hello,

Don't know if this helps anyone but I used good ol' unistrut for T tracks on my table. If anyones interested I will post some pics. The best part about using the stuff is it's pretty cheap.

[stickman]

Gavin,

Post a couple pictures showing us your application of use.

Jay

[podunk]

All,

Here are some picutes of my setup. What I did was mount 1/2 thickness uni-strut between 2x6 Doug Fir. The bolts going thru the boards are counter sunk so there will be no possibility of hitting them. Currently I am using plywood squares with jig nobs attached to the littl mounting cog thingy but I recently purchased a bunch of surplus table saw fence cam handles on e-bay and am working on quick release clamps. One change I think I would make is I would use toilet bolts or some other flat head bold to attach the tracks becuase the round heads I use catch on my hold downs.

[podunk]

All,

Here are some picutes of my setup. What I did was mount 1/2 thickness uni-strut between 2x6 Doug Fir. The bolts going thru the boards are counter sunk so there will be no possibility of hitting them. Currently I am using plywood squares with jig nobs attached to the littl mounting cog thingy but I recently purchased a bunch of surplus table saw fence cam handles on e-bay and am working on quick release clamps. One change I think I would make is I would use toilet bolts or some other flat head bold to attach the tracks becuase the round heads I use catch on my hold downs.

[podunk]

Sorry,

Everytime I try to upload the image is too big. I am going to up these to my web site and then link them over the weekend.

[dvanr]

Another source for a T-track (rail) product. Try your local sailing chandler or extruded aluminium supplier if you live near the coast. Ask for a product call sail rail/track ( used on the jib) very close to to t - track but slightly rounded. Needs to be drilled but at $10.00 per 4 meters compared to $20.00 per meter for t- track it's a bargain.

I found some here and 1/4" carriage bolts fit easily and 5/16th with a tiny bit of grinding.