Perhaps a bit OT - Cutting Mudflaps

[johnm]

Folks -

Okay, got a quick one, thought I'd check in before I made a dire mcsnake...

I have to cut rubber mudflap (~1/4" thick) into 2" wide strips. Ideally I'd like to do this on either my tablesaw or bandsaw.

What kind of blade should I use - I've got rip, combo, crosscut, plywood... if I use the TS. I'd like a smooth an edge as possible, so would prefer using the TS over the bandsaw.

I've got a cabinet saw, so power isn't an issue - and I would be using a zero clearance insert and standard safety gear.

Recommendations? Cautions?

TIA,

John

[Brady Watson]

Scary stuff, John. I wouldn't use any of the tools that you mentioned. If it's only 1/4", make yourself a couple strips of hardwood and clamp the rubber in between them on your bench. Then run a utility knife down it. Using a rotary tool of ANY type will result in a smokey, sticky mess. If I were to try any rotary tool, believe it or not I would try a wet tile saw with a diamond blade.

After cutting with knife, if you absolutely have to have a tight crisp edge, leave the strip in the clamp and run the orbital sander over the edge with 220 or better.

-B

[ricks]

John,
A former boss of mine cut a piece of rubber on the table saw, about the size you are talking about. Kicked back faster and harder than anything else I've ever seen. He ran back in his office doubled over in pain & embarrassment. He was all right. I learned to never get near anything like that.
HTH
Rick

[davidallen]

John,
I've cut 1/4" rubber sheet that was similar to a mudflap. I tried table and band saws, both had problems. The table saw would pull the sheet down, grab and kick back like Rick said. The band saw cut safely, but left a ragged edge.

A rotary knife would be best. I finally fixed a razor blade (like those used in scrapers) in a board with the edge up, at an angle and pulled the rubber across it.

da

[Brady Watson]

THIS is my absolute favorite weapon of choice for jobs like these: http://www.olfa.com/

If you pull the blade all the way out you can filet just about anything.

-B

[patricktoomey]

An odd idea but with valid logic I think. Bandsaws are used to cut meat, often when it is frozen or nearly frozen because it is rigid then. Freeze the rubber in a chest freezer or somthing that will take it down to 0 degrees or so to get it nice and hard, then cut it on the bandsaw with a zero clearance insert. Just do it CAREFULLY. Different tooth counts on the blade would likely make a dramatic difference but I don't know if coarse or fine would be better. Fine would seem logical but may produce more rapid heating. Coarse would cut faster with less heat but would be more likely to grab.

[handh]

Or you can use a electric filet knife Brady with less effort. LOL

[richards]

If you use a bandsaw, try selecting a blade that has 2-3 teeth in the material at all times - and be careful. I cut off the tip of my left index finger 1-1/2 years ago when I reached over to turn off the power (no guard on the top section of my riser-added Jet). The emergency room sewed my finger back together ($3,100), but it is still mostly numb (which is why my posts are so long - I have to type more slowly, which gives me too much time to think).

[patricktoomey]

Mike, I think I speak for everyone when I say... OUCH!

[johnm]

Hey all -

Well, as usual, I tend to overcomplicate things - a single edge razor blade/box cutter/airline chartering tool did the job.

I started to use the TS, with a zero clearance insert but felt it "pulling" even before I had really started the cut, and stopped.

The bandsaw worked okay, but left a ragged edge - so I stuck with the box cutter.

Thanks all! I can still count to 10!

John

[stevem]

I have one of these. It makes quick work of .25" thick rubber and leaves a clean edge.

4733

[sawkerf]

Show-off!LOL

[tim_whitcher]

Can you rig that thing up to a Shopbot?? ;)