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View Full Version : Looking for alternate Dust Collection Skirt



ironsides
11-13-2009, 04:33 PM
The ShopBot PRS Dust Skirt, provided by SB, works great on surfaces with vacuum clamping.

My SB uses mechanical clamping and the back end of the skirt tends to get tangled up with any clamping studs or bar clamps I use to hold the work on the table.

I am looking for pictures or suggestions from other users for alternate methods to gather the dust. I, of course, could not use the Skirt, but I am looking for other ideas.

George

knight_toolworks
11-14-2009, 01:39 PM
well changing your hold down may be easier.
here is what I use. this is easy to adjust easy to put on the table and take it off since it uses dowels to line it up.
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s266/knighttoolworks/cnc%20jigs%20and%20parts/clampjig1.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s266/knighttoolworks/cnc%20jigs%20and%20parts/clampjig2.jpg
I also have a better skirt that really sucks.
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s266/knighttoolworks/cnc%20jigs%20and%20parts/dcsetup3.jpg

ironsides
11-16-2009, 08:43 PM
Steve,

Thanks for the photo's of your hold down jig.

It looks like you are using large flat head screws to hold the jig on the SB table then cam clamps to hold the job down to your jig.

I have been seriously considering doing the same thing. On my first concept for work holding, I never considered the dust collector skirt, I only concentrated on the path of the cutter, but soon learned that the path of the dust skirt would also be a problem. I can certainly see the advantage of the vacuum table, but it is out of the question for me.

George

khaos
11-17-2009, 09:32 AM
How about this http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/messages/28/48235.html?1258467867

knight_toolworks
11-17-2009, 01:15 PM
I just use sheetrock screws. it works well and is not hard to remove. depending on flatness you could use the 4 dowels that align it up and some 18 gage brads. but the fence needs to be well screwed to keep it from bowing under pressure.

rb99
11-17-2009, 01:52 PM
My experience is that sheet rock or in Canada drywall screws are not very strong compared to steel screws.

RIB

aaasigncom
11-17-2009, 02:11 PM
DUSTFOOT WITH AIR AND LIQUID MISTER. OFFSET MOUNT ALLOWS THE UNIT TO SWIVAL 90 TO 180 DEGREES OUT OF THE WAY FOR BIT CHANGES
5406

knight_toolworks
11-17-2009, 02:52 PM
true on the screws but they are plenty strong. I use self drilling cabinet screws. Plus they have far more thread then most wood screws.

rb99
11-17-2009, 05:48 PM
Sorry I thought this was the thread about the lazy Susan screws...I would not want to use drywall screws on that.

RIB

gc3
01-02-2010, 09:37 AM
This looks like a nice shoe, I have one on order. You can get the info on the Vectric Aspire General forum.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8ehFKTjZN4


Gene Crain
www.plantasymaderas.com (http://www.plantasymaderas.com)

ken_rychlik
01-02-2010, 10:00 AM
Gene, how much is that dust shoe? It looks simple and effective.

Kenneth

gc3
01-02-2010, 10:15 AM
I think is is $95 with $15-20 to ship...you can pay with paypal

His e mail is KENTCNC@gmail.com (mailto:KENTCNC@gmail.com)

Look for the post "dust control" in the Aspire General page of the vectric forum


Gene Crain
www.plantasymaderas.com (http://www.plantasymaderas.com)

ken_rychlik
01-02-2010, 10:21 AM
Ok, thanks

KR

joecnc2006
01-02-2010, 01:51 PM
I got one of Kents Dust Shoes and by far is the best one I have tried it works very well, Easy to use and access to change my bits.

knight_toolworks
01-02-2010, 04:30 PM
I really like his ideas. though it wont work on my prt alpha. so I would need to make one. right now I have a hose in front. but I wonder what he uses for brushes. the poly ones I got from mcmaster did not last they would bend and stay bent.

jerry_stanek
01-02-2010, 06:48 PM
I use one from this company. There was a rep At John Forney's camp in 2008 and they handed out samples. It was enough for me to use on my dust foot and it has lasted.

http://www.sealeze.com/ezflex.html

ssflyer
01-02-2010, 07:40 PM
Wow Steve,

That's the first time I think I ever saw someone else using the ShopFox Cam Clamps on their ShopBot! I've been using them since I set my machine up. I installed 8020 T-Track in my table, and have had no issues clamping anything. I like the low profile and the fact that they push down as well as in. If cutting all the way to the edge of the material, I simply use wood spacers.

Regards,
Ron

knight_toolworks
01-02-2010, 08:30 PM
I have been using them for maybe a year. but I gave up on the track because it was hard to keep it in place and it got damaged if I goofed. so I make them from mdf and when I damage one enough I just make a new one this saves a lot of money over using the track.

rb99
01-02-2010, 09:56 PM
Steve do you mean you are making the clamps out of MDF or the slots?

I would like to make the clamps so I could just screw them into the table where I need them.

RIB

knight_toolworks
01-02-2010, 09:59 PM
the slots. I make the board with a t slot cutter. I used to screw the camps in place I made simple cam camps. but these work better and they are faster too.

ssflyer
01-07-2010, 09:24 AM
My track is set into my table surface - about 1/2" below the spoilboard surface. I screwed them to the second layer of MDF on my table, then used the ShopBot to precisely cut the spoilboard top layer to fit. I've surfaced the top several times, and still have plenty left above the track for a lot more surfaces. It's been working well for me.

Ron
5407

knight_toolworks
01-07-2010, 03:59 PM
that's a good idea making them that deep. though you can't use a vacuum. I need to use both.

gwerner
01-10-2010, 02:47 PM
Here is my solution. Mocked up a template with plywood and PVC pipe. Wrapped in 100 mph tape and then fiberglass. It is held in place by a rubber drain reduction fitting. The skirt is from McMaster and the 4" hose is standard. The 6" pipe on top is from a drain T from the Depot. The other parts are standard PVC and I screwed it into the tool holder that is mounted to the Z, from plywood and shelf brackets. It is all attached to my Oneida 2.5 HP collector. It will suck you in if you get too close. I don't have anything to clean up, and its great for 3D work. Bits are easy to change underneath, and it doesn't hit during full travel side to side.
5408