Masking Fuzzies - Is it me or the mask?

[rcnewcomb]

This is the first roll of mask that I've bought so I don't know if it is me or the mask that is at issue.

We pretty consistently get fuzzies around the cuts and it tends to peel up as well. Any suggestions?

The mask is Transfer Rite Ultra from ABI Tape

See below...

5553

[zeykr]

That looks like vinyl transfer tape instead of the vinyl mask I use (gerber mask II). Are you using Dr. Crumleys snake oil method with rubber cement or just using it as masking by itself?


That's pretty typical for transfer paper, though I find some v bits cut mask better than others. If you're doing the rubber cement method, then the paper is just to remove the rubber cement mask and the tear out won't matter much - just wipe out the fuzzies from the letters and seal then paint it.

How was the board finished before applying the mask? And is this Dr. Crumleys method you're trying?

[paco]

Look very papery...

[rcnewcomb]

I was not using the Crumley method. This was just the mask straight on the material. The finish doesn't seem to make much difference as the peeling/tearing results are similar.

[zeykr]

Randall, From the looks of it, I think what you have is vinyl transfer tape and not masking. If it's rubber cement backed transfer tape as I think it is, try using Dr. Crumleys method with the rubber cement, or get some gerber mask II. The gerbermask only really works on smooth prefinished surfaces, Dr, Crumleys method will work even on rough sawed, unfinished western cedar. I tend to use gerber mask on my prefinished materials as it's faster and easier, and the rubber cement method on unfinished or rough materials.

You may know these, but I'll write out the methods I've been taught by other shopbotters in case someone searches for it.

Rubber Cement Method (Dr. Crumleys Snake Oil Mask):

1) Place a piece of masking tape on corner of blank where there will not be carving.
2) Use a vinyl squeege or similar to spread a thin coat of rubber cement on blank. I use elmers rubber cement, you can buy qts at local office supply or gallons online.
3) let it dry 15-30 min, then remove your piece of masking tape so you have an uncovered place to zero your z on top of the blank.
4) place the rubber cement backed vinly transfer tape over the rubber cement on the blank
5) carve through the paper, the paper will tear some, but it's only there to make removing the rubber cement easier.
6) seal the carved areas with a coat of shellac or with the background color of paint
7) paint carved area with final color
8) when you peel the paper, most of the rubber cement should come with it, the rest you can rub off with your fingers.

Gerber Mask II Method:

1) Finish your blank (smooth paint or polyurethane) let it dry completely.
2) Use vinyl Squeege to apply gerber mask II to sign blank. Work it with the squeege to get all air bubbles out and good adhesion. If can't get air bubbles out with squeege, use exacto knife to puncture and the squeege down tight.
3) carve through the mask (mask is thin enough I just zero z on top of it)
4) seal carving with Shellac or background paint color. I do a couple coats of shellac from different angles on clear finishes, background color of paint on painted signs.
5) paint carving
6) Peel mask. Either peel it with paint a little wet so it breaks easy on the edges, or let every thing get good and dry before peeling so little paint chips from the masked area don't stick to your finished carving.

[nick]

Where can I buy the Gerber Mask II

[zeykr]

Most sign supply shops should carry it in various widths.

I have gotten it from Glantz and from Hyatts

http://www.hyatts.com/sign/gerbermask-ii-unpunched-20x50yd---------------t56850

[bpfohler]

I prefer Oracal 813 stencil film. It works excellent and is much cheaper than the Gerber.

[joe]

Randall,

Yes, you're in the learning curve.

Ken knows the steps. Perhaps I can assist.

The reason for rubber cement, formerly knows as "Dr. Crumley's Rootin Tooting Majic Snake Oil Mask" it will seap into small cracks and stay put. This technique was developed for rough surface masking. Like Kens says, just pour a glob onto the area of the panel which needs masking. Spread it out with any stiff type squeege. Cardboard is good.

Now your are masked. The transfer tape has nothing to do with masking. The only reason for is to remove the rubber cement at the end of the process. Transfer tape has a rubber cement adhesive and is perfect for removal.

There isn't a vinyl stencil on the marked which will work on rough, raw wood. I've been doing this for years and they don't work!


5554

I'm going to bequith all the technical questions, from here on, to Key Zey. He's an expert.

[myxpykalix]

Joe,
I don't make signs so i don't know any of the tricks of the trade but following this thread got me to thinking a bit.

In reference to your 50/50 water/glue forumla for a mask I have used regular silicone caulk to seal the edges of my spoilboard and noticed that after it dried it turned to a clear rubbery surface and I wondered if you thought that would make a good masking material or not. Has anyone tried cutting into that with any luck?

[joe]

Good idea Jack,

Do as I have, go for it. If it works we'd then have "Dr. Jarvis Majic Masking Formula". I'm rootin fer ya. Sounds like a good idea.

I've also been interested in giving SprayLat a test. We're coating out some boards this week. Perhaps I'll find time for a test or two. If it works, I'll try to ride it for as much praise or money as possible.

HeeHEEE.

Joe



Joe

[bcammack]

You can thin silicone caulk with acetone. That's how we used to make silicone-covered sponge slicks back in the days of commercial slot car racing emporiums. Just thin it down and paint it on.

[joe]

Brett,

Over the years I've seen many posts about a technique followed by the comment "It Should Work".

Could you please make a sample using this material and post the results? That way some poor bloke isn't wasting time and materials.

I always post photo's and details. I do this out of respect. I'd never suggest any technique unless I knew for sure it worked.

Joe

[bryson]

My fear with silicone would be that it would contaminate the surface making futher painting a problem.
My 2 cents,
Bryson