Painting MDF

[radone]

An incredible resource of information.
I have researched the painting of MDF. (recognition sports plaques 11 and 12 year old boys football) Most of what I have found requires what appears to be extensive equipment. As much as I want to do a high quality product these would be good will.( minimum cost) Any thoughts as to paint and or possibly laminent. There will be some tight and close details. Thank you

[brucehiggins]

I just did this sample sign out of mdf and was pleased with the finish. I used Sikkens Cetol Log and Siding finish (Cedar color) - brushed on 2 coats. Letters were cut separately and glued into pockets.

5568

[njandpa]

Very nice sign. Great job!!

What was your process finishing the letters?

Very nice!

[brucehiggins]

Thanks! The letters are painted with Modern Masters Metallic Paint (Pharaoh's Gold). I got to try that paint at Joe Crumley's sign workshop.

[radone]

Thanks for the respones Bruce. I will second the very nice work. Are the letters also MDF? Did you brush the letters? And are they primed? I like the stain process and wonder if I might find something in shade of green (odd maybe). Looking to produce a green field with white letters in relief by using a mask. By the looks of your sign the Sikkens provides a nice sheen.

[brucehiggins]

The letters are MDF, primed and brushed. The Sikkens finish doesn't come in green - just several brown shades. The Modern Masters paint comes in shades of green and brushes on nicely but I am not an expert on what is the best paint to use. One-shot brand seems to get mentioned a lot. Good luck!

[larry_r]

Bruce

That sign is really incredible. MDF, never would have guessed that. Did you prime and sand the MDF before you put on the Sikkens?

Thanks for posting the pic

Larry

[brucehiggins]

Thanks Larry. No, I put the Sikkens directly over unsanded, unprimed MDF. I am hoping I get similar results over exterior MDF which I am going to get next week.

[bill1]

That really looks great, excellent job.

[john_l]

Bruce,

Did the MDF "fuz up" at the routed areas with the Sikkens product?

I love using MDF for all sorts of painted signs and components. It's inexpensive and machines very well. The biggest problem I have had has been sealing it. I tried the sealers mentioned in other posts and it just drinks it all up and looks like I never sealed it, even after several coats. This is evident also because the paint coats always seem to give me "standing fuzz" which is very difficult to sand off many times.

Any advice on how you addressed these issues if you had them? Thanks.

[brucehiggins]

John,
It didn't fuz up at all. I used Lowes MDF - I don't know if MDF varies with different manufacturers.
Bruce

[dubliner]

Very nice job Bruce, even if you did use that Beckwith Pimp Goldesque :-)

[garyb]

oooh...... that one goes in the keeper box for paybacks.... (G)

nice job Bruce

[nailzscott]

I cut 2 layers of MDF for a local business. He had it painted by an auto body shop, so I'm not sure what he used, but it came out nice a glossy. I think he said 1972 Chevelle Blue.
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[brucehiggins]

Neville,
I promise on my "real" signs I will use gold leaf.
Bruce

p.s. Did you get the pm I sent you re. the vest that ended up in my box? I would swear it's yours.

[radone]

I like the glossy Scott, but the local paint shop goes to the point of extensive equipment/cost. I picked up some minwax stain in a hunter green color. Also the point of "fuzzies" I am machining a non Truepan but lightwaight MDF, and had what appeared to be a nice finish, will look to see if adding a stian or paint brings them out. By the way I know it is a different area but what was the cost and type of paint? Thanks for taking the time to post.

[cncb]

The most important part to remember using MDF for signs is to use the right MDF. Regular cheap mdf or even trupan is designed to be used as a sheet product; not a milled product. That's why it has so many fibers and takes paint like a sponge. If you want to mill it, either for raised panels signs whatever you need to look into something called double-refined MDF; also called Ranger Board. It's a premium grade mdf and it takes paint just like wood. It has more density and real wood fibers in it and does less damage to your tooling at the same time. For outdoor signs look for Extira or at minimum Medex. It machines much like Ranger board but Extira is waterproof. But for exterior I would prefer sign foam.

[nailzscott]

R Schmidt, I'll send off a note to see if I can get some particulars on what was used on the glossy MAD sign. Since it was painted for a friend of a friend, I'm not sure they estimated a cost, but I'll ask about method and costs and let you know if I get a response.

[radone]

Thanks Scott, I'll redo my profile to include my first name of Randy, as I don't like the way it leaves others guessing. I did apply the stain and it appears to have initially taken well and leave a good finish. Looking to finish project with a coat of satin poly-urathane. And to Brain's point of types, this is part of the learning curve and notes to filed, it is much appreciated . Thank you Brain. I will look to see how readily available those materials are here in the local area. Whan complete I'll try and uplaod a picture.

[sawdust535]

Brian,
Do you have a source for Ranger Board. Can't find one in the Massachusetts area.

[blackhawk]

Bruce - You say that the gold letters are pocketed into the MDF. I notice that they have nice sharp corners. How did you create the pockets and matching letter profiles? Did you use the V-carve process for inlays that is on the Vectric forum?

[brucehiggins]

Brad,
I used a 1/8" straight bit to cut the letters and the pockets. For the letters I first did a profile cut using a vbit to give a beveled edge (in this case .12" deep) then I did a profile w/ the 1/8" bit specifying a -.02 outside offset. I did have to trim off some sharp corners w/ a utility knife - just takes a few minutes. Next time I am going to try a -.03 or -.035 outside offset so I don't have to do any trimming.
Bruce