Sculpt Nouveau

[joe]

We're still working with Sculpt Nouveau. It's a natural for CNC sign artis. The process is oxidizing of SN's metalic paints. The one's we like most are Iron, Copper, Brass and Bronze.

Here's an example of Copper used on the entrance of a housing addition, for Cantebury. I suggested to the developer we use aged copper letters. And I explained to them they would cost more than painted letters. They asked for a sample which I gladly make to show the affect. Samples are a must to show the client what's possible.


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The Herman' Lounge is a combination of Iron and Bronze. The lobster is Bronze with Tiffany patina and the brown border was Iron with with light green patina. There's no end to what can be done with these materials. It get away from painting and adds some extra texture.

The neat thing about this process, if you don't like how it turns out, no problem, just apply more of their paint over it and start over. It takes a little playing around but it's all worth the work. I don't know of any sign artist working in this field.




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Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)

[porscheman]

Joe,

A couple of questions, if you don't mind:

1) What substrate are you applying the SN products to? Sign foam, exterior MDF, etc?

2) Are you using the "B" formulation metal coatings, or the "C" versions, which are catalyzed to better withstand exterior applications?

3) Once the patinas are applied, are you sealing the surface with a clear-coat of some kind?

Thanks.

John

[joe]

John,

I don't have a preferance between B or C. It's my understanding the C has more metal in it. I've strayed away from HDU and gone to Extira and PVC.

Top coating can be a very creative process. There are the colored waxes, and clear coats which have colors added to them. I tell you John there's almost no limit to where a person can go with this process.

Now it's hard for me to just paint a plain background. I'm usually adding textures and overcoats. Another change is the lack of sanding and fussing with perfectly smooth surfaces. With a good loking texture the finishing process is shortened up.



Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)
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[kartracer63]

Those are great looking signs Joe. Thanks for the information. I'm going to have to try this.

[mikeacg]

Joe,

Your work is wonderful! The more I see this stuff, the more I want to try it! Thanks again for sharing!

Mike

[tuck]

Joe,

You almost always show us that signs can be more than just signs. They can be real art. Great, great stuff.:)

[joe]

Greetings Mark,

I miss hearing from you. I found lots of good information when you were more active. Let us know what you're up to.

[gc3]

Here is another "sculpt nouveau" type look in Spanish Cedar (Cedrella Odorata) a natural medium :eek:

Gene Crain

[tuck]

Not much, Joe. Sign business has been slow for me. So slow, in fact, that I'm thinking about finding a job. Oh, wait,... there ARE no jobs!:(

I'm gonna keep my 'Bot. Things will eventually pick up again, but I know a lot of folks that are hurting right now and that has effected me as well. I've been trying to think of some other things I can do with this old machine to generate some income, but at present I'm considering becoming a professional cartoonist. Cartooning is a passion of mine that I never pursued as a career, but last year the Atlanta Falcons contracted me out to be their official cartoonist. It's a part time gig that I do from my office but it has occurred to me that if I can pick up a few more gigs like this one, I'll be making a living at it!:)

Here is a link to my blog with the Atlanta Falcons: (I am "Superfan") Click on each title to see the cartoons. You probably won't get a charge out of them if you're not a Falcon's fan, but you can see my style of work.

http://superfan.blogs.atlantafalcons.com/

I start out with pencil sketches, scan them, import them into Photoshop and get to work. It's a lot of fun and combines two things I really enjoy,...cartooning and football.

It may be too late to switch careers though. I'm almost as old as you, Joe!:D

I'll always be a sign man at heart. I don't have the passion and talent for it that you and many others do, but I was good enough to make some dang good money at routing signs when things were better with the economy.

I'll be around more now that they've finally upgraded the boards. I'm always curious to see what YOU guys are up to!

[navigator7]

I've been trying to think of some other things I can do will this old machine to generate some income, but at present I'm considering becoming a professional cartoonist. Cartooning is a passion of mine that I never pursued as a career, but last year the Atlanta Falcons contracted me out to be their official cartoonist. It's a part time gig that I do from my office but it has occurred to me that if I can pick up a few more gigs like this one, I'll be making a living at it!:)

Have you considered making life size renditions of your art?
Carve in foam? You already got the touch!
I'm not a football fan but those who are are plum f'ing crazy! They just might be crazy with their dough? I could see renditions of your art magnetically mounted on cars, garages, yard art, office spaces......just brainstorming. Passion and emotion is where it is at!

[joe]

Mark,

You're better than that old machine, as a matter of fact you're better than two, so follow your heart and tallent! All will come right.

Gene,

Wonderful panel. I'm glad you showed how simple and attractive it can be. It's not necessary to put any patina on to have a nice effect. I'm going to follow your lead and more plain SN without any treatment. I do like the Liver of Sulphur patina though.

For those who don't know, this material is hard as a rock. Although it's water based, latex, if it dry's in clothes forget getting it out.

[tuck]

Have you considered making life size renditions of your art?
Carve in foam? You already got the touch!
I'm not a football fan but those who are are plum f'ing crazy! They just might be crazy with their dough? I could see renditions of your art magnetically mounted on cars, garages, yard art, office spaces......just brainstorming. Passion and emotion is where it is at!

Chuck, I am considering everything possible at present, and you are exactly right,...ardent sports fans will spend money (and lots of it), on just about anything having to do with their team(s). I don't know about life size, but with sports fans, bigger is always better!

Joe Crumely, sir, a question; Is Sculpt Nouveau applicable to any substrate? For instance, would it bead up, fish eye and maybe not adhere well to say,... PVC? I ask this because I do have some ideas in mind that could combine my old Bot with my artwork that I could cut and maybe sell to the masses, but I don't want to get bogged down with a lot of intricate painting. The idea of a 'monotone' finish that may resemble aged copper or brass is very attractive to me and could work very well for what I have in mind. Also, do you brush it on or spray it?

[navigator7]

Chuck, I am considering everything possible at present, and you are exactly right,...ardent sports fans will spend money (and lots of it), on just about anything having to do with their team(s). I don't know about life size, but with sports fans, bigger is always better!

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I dunno man....I see a huge ton of potential morphing your 2D skills into 3D.

[signtist]

OK Joe.... now I have to buy more stuff!!! Sculpt Nouveau
Can you tell me what material you used on the housing project.
Did you prime first?
Looks like 2 layers.
Looks like its mounted to a metal gate.
John Arnott

[tgm]

Joe,

How are you handling the mixing ratios of the SN?? We have several projects we are working on and we have the SN products ready to go but are contimplating the best method of measurement since the product is made to be mixed at some specific ratio.
I assume you don't use a whole container for each project.

Nice work BTW, I now have a goal to achieve in finishing.

Thanks,

Tom in PA

[joe]

Here's the skinny,

On my scrolls and letters, which are cut from Extira, I first surfaced them with a nice fat coat of shellac. Apply SN with a cheap little Critter spraygun. This is the base coat. Let it dry overnight. The second coat of copper is sprayed on and immediately LIGHTLY misted with SN's Tiffany patina. Let it dry over night. You'll have a mottled, uneven bright green. At that point you can get creative. Although most people quit at this point, you can continue on building up colors.

I often brush on, with a small artists disposable brush, one of their dye's. I used their Dye Oxide Blue around the sides. It's thin as water and transparent. On spots where I wanted a little more copper look, using a cheap, hog bristle, 1" chip bursh, dab a little more copper on muted areas. There will be enough dry acid to attach this coat but it will always be brighter. For highlights, sometimes I dab on a little SN tan patina. Sometimes I use acrylic artist paints to darken or lighten area's. You're the artist, so experiment.

The point is, you can use many techniques to accomplish stunning affects. You don't have to quit after the first couple of coats. There's no end to what can be done. You have to play around and not worry about making mistakes. If worse comes to worse, no problem, paint the whole thing again with copper and try it over. It takes experimentation.

These letters were attached with screws, from the back, to DyeBond.

A good starting point is buy Iron "B" and "Light Green" patina. Remember, the patina needs to be misted on when the metal paint is wet. The patina is acid and will eat the spring right out of the misting bottle so wash it out after use.

Wear gloves.



Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)

[porscheman]

Remember, the patina needs to be misted on when the metal paint is wet.

I've also been doing a bunch of experimenting with the SN products - metal coatings and patina solutions. In addition to applying the patinas while the metal coatings are still wet (which I haven't tried myself), they can also be applied after the metal coating has dried. The dried coating is lightly burnished with a Scotchbrite pad to expose the metal particles, and then the patina can be sprayed/brushed/misted on. One advantage of applying it after the metal coating has hardened is that you can manipulate or adjust the patina as it is "developing", by blotting it off areas that have achieved a sufficient amount of color, and reapplying it in areas that need more color.

As Joe states (and the pictures show), the creative possibilities are endless.

Hope this added info helps.

John

[wcsg]

Here's a reverse channel letter set I did a while back using Sculpt Nouveau

http://www.thesignsyndicate.com/miscstuff/jobs/Solare/solare7.JPG

http://www.thesignsyndicate.com/miscstuff/jobs/Solare/solare11.JPG

http://westcoastsignco.com/forums/uploads/1264126238/med_gallery_1_1_68992.jpg


Wish I had more jobs like this where I could play around

[joe]

Excellent Job Erik.

Glad to see someone else using these products and doing experiments with them.

One of the little advantages you are showing, there's isn't much surface sanding. Just put on a texture, and start painting. What did you use for the texture. It looks good. I'm using Durhams Rock Hard Putty.

I have a fairly large job in the house now making reverse channel letters with LED's. My thought is, after the letters are cut and ready to go, then cut 1/2" plex a little larger than the letter with a 45* bevel, place it on the back so the light will illuminate circle the letter. Have you tired that?

From the brightness of your letters it looks as if you used neon as opposed to LED's?

Control over oxidation:

There must be a dozen ways to alter the speed and degree during and after application. Like you say, a scotchbrite to scuff the surface is one of them. It's also possible to mix a little patina with the paint and dab it on. Also you can apply a little clear acrylic, with a brush, as the acid takes affect.

I'm not opposed to brushing on a little Bronze over the area's of copper which needs to be darker.

Thanks again for posting. That way I'm not seen as a crazy scientiest.

Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)

PS:

Erik, the reason I suggested misting the SN Metalic Paint while it's wet was to help Newbees experience the effect. Like you say, there are stages. It's all an experiment when starting out.

[wcsg]

Thank you Joe.

Hmmmm, not sure what you mean on the 1/2" plex part.

Here is a link of how I did this job step by step
http://www.thesignsyndicate.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2236

You might have to register first though, but check it out for those interested.

On the LED's. I mostly do Neon for my jobs, this particular job called out for LED's. These aren't the kind of LED's you would pick up at a sign supply. These are custom, RGB's programmed to match a Tangerine orange. This is one of the best manufactured LED's you can buy on the market today for signs. I'm not just making a marketing statement here, I test light sources for the electric sign industry and this particular manufacturer is bright, lasts a longtime and very efficient.

I took many shots for this pic trying to get the exposure right to display just how bright it is in real time, this is the most accurate with no overexposure to come off like it's brighter (like most led makers do). These are 1/2 watt mods all hooked up on one PS. Out of all the LED manufacturers this is one of the few that I would ever use.

I'm in socal, so it makes more sense for me to use neon, if I was in Minnesota, then I would most likely be using LED's

[tgm]

Joe,

What do you do about the mixing ratios???

Tom in PA

[joe]

Experience. There's no way to calculate it. I was talking to Debbie at SN about the process of darkening down corners of a panel when she suggested mixing the two solutions together and spraying them with a Critter spray gun.

But the point is, with these processes you will have trouble trying to reduce it down to exact formula's. Sometimes you'll finish up a test which doesn't look very good and when you view it a few days or weeks later it's changed and looks good. This a dyanmic process that takes time. You have the option to arrest the process by cutting off oxygen with clear coating. That can be done with waxes, acrylic clears, Permalac, or a host of other materials.

[wayne_walker]

I agree with Chuck.

Nice art, at the very least posters for the team stores.

Go for it!

Wayne