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Dan_Tech@Charter.net
11-12-2003, 02:18 AM
We experimented with building the graining into the routing process.

For realistic graining - you need to V groove the lines. It ended up taking 10x longer to cut the grain pattern. I figured I could just use a .5 engraving tip but without the realistic up/down V groove it never looked right.

Heres the process we use now. Cleanest results for the fastest turnaround.
1. presand the HDU - gets all the manufacturer grime off - opens up the pores.
2. prep - we use Jay Cookes, use a combination of a roller and a wide squeege - really gives a glass smooth finish - no pinhole air pockets.
3. Apply sandblast resist to the whole sign over the dried prep.
4. Put the sign on the router and route out the letters and designs into the resist. This saves you the plotter step and the resist doesnt get stretched out. We leave a .25" offset border around the letters - this gives the letters a natural flat border instead of grain up to the edge which makes it hard to read letters sometimes - but you can do it whichever way you want.
5. We send the blank off to blast using a Grain frame - thats the comb tool Tom mentioned. If you have deep pockets buy it - otherwise look at the pic of one and you can make your own using plastic wire lines for less.
6. While the blanks off getting blasted we cut the letters from .25 up to .75 HDU or PVC. I prefer PVC - sharper edges, finishes faster.
7. Get the blank back from the blaster and stab brush 2 coats of paint on it
8. Glue the letters on. You can pocket them for extra grab - or offset them using spacers for more effect.

Your fails here are leaving sharp edges on your letters. The router bits leave incredibly sharp edges. This prevents water from falling over the edge due to capillary reaction. You "ease" the edge by hand smoothing (least favorite method) or using a half round or Chisel bit to put a rounded or angled edge on the letter. This allows the rain water and all its contaminents to sheet down the letter. Otherwise you end up with these little water drops which act as magnifying glasses for the sun and burn in pits into the paint just like it does on your car hood.

rookie432
11-12-2003, 08:19 AM
Laff,

I'm curious about this. One step in particular. Routing through the sandblast resist?
What sandblast resist are you using?
Doesn't the resist cut poorly with a router bit?
Iv'e cut through paint masks and no matter what I do I still seem to get a fuzzy edge on the second pass. I would expect this to be pronounced with softer rubber/plastic sandblast resist.
Like I said I'm curious. Educate me


Bill

Dan_Tech@Charter.net
11-12-2003, 08:16 PM
Anchor stencil #125 - 25"x10yds - $94.99 I have tried others and get the same results. I recommend the cheaper hand cut stencil material for direct mount to untreated wood - really grabs the prepped HDU surface.

.005 Chisel point engravers router bit. If you use an endmill you will get lifting. The V tip bit is set to just barely cut through. I normally get a very smooth cut at 13,000 rpm - but I have seen the fuzzy lines you mentioned. They blew right off in sandblasting tho and you coudn't tell between the smooth and fuzzy areas.
I will make a point of looking for any difference the next time and let ya know how it looks.

The resist cuts better on the router than it ever did through my plotter - no stretching or skewing during plotting or in application, and I finally get use out of every bit of it. This whole process came about from not having enough stencil leftover to use a plotter. I overlapped all the scraps and was amazed how simple the whole process became.

We only do 1 pass, never tried 2 passes - I will the next time I have a piece on the table and see if it makes a difference.

prosigns
01-24-2004, 05:44 PM
That's a great idea. I've got to try it. Never thought about cutting resist w/shopbot.