V-Carving Cedar

[brian]

Whats the best way to use cedar for a sign blank,edge grain or face grain.
I've V-carved some face grain slabs that I chainsaw milled.When I V-carved it there were a lot of tear outs and ragged edges.I'm using a 60deg 1" almost new v-bit and have tried different feeds but got almost the same results.My spindle speed was 12000.
I was going for that rustic look by using these slabs with the weather worn edges.I know I could mill some letters out of different material and stick them on.
Any solutions ie.-different bit?
-edge grain(although impossible with rough slabs)
-could I v-carve to an unfinished depth coat the area with some kind of penetrating finish. to firm the wood up and then do a final pass???

Any ideas would be appreciated

thanks Brian Newman

[zeykr]

Brian, I've vcarved a number signs out of eastern red cedar slabs. Have five 8' cedar slab signs in front of business. I finish with 3 coats of Helmsman first, apply gerber mask, then vcarve. Usually use a 90 deg hersaf V at 12000 rpm and ~2ips, then a 1/4 vortex endmill at 12000 with similar feed. The cedar carves very nicely for me. I've tried other bits and some don't produce near as good an edge on the masking as others. Also applying finish first is necesary for the mask to hold well.

[brian]

Ken
I've never heard of Helmsman.
Is it a topcoat product?
Is the eastern red cedar a slower growing tree.

Brian

[rick_woodward]

In my experience eastern red cedar cuts well.Even unfinished. Western red cedar is a whole other thing. The grain is weaker , larger annual rings cause it to blow off chunks. Edge or face grain. Finished or not.Its just a weak wood for this. I do cheap signs with it and sell it the way it comes out. If you stand back FAR enough, the overall picture looks good. HA HA HA !
Helmsman Spar urethane is made by Minwax. I use it alot. Satin.

[zeykr]

Like Rick says, Helmsman is a minwax polyurethane product. I think the main difference in it and other minwax poly product is that helmsman has UV inhibitors in it.

[brian]

Rick
That's what I thought,I remember as a child the cedar growing in my parents yard.When I go back there now 30 yrs later there still not that big.

I have acess to some Douglas fir slabs,would this in your opinion machine better than western red cedar.I like the idea of the rot resistance of the cedar but if it looks bad I'd rather not put my name on it.

Brian

[rick_woodward]

Hi Brian. I havent done much with douglas fir, but as i remember it is better than western cedar. Having said that, it pays to look at the growth rings. The denser the better. You want thin,tight growth rings. That would cut clean and crisp.As for rot resistance. It doesnt mean a thing if the sign is going to have a finish on it. A good finish makes any wood rot resistant.Rot resistance would be a plus if it was a post stuck in the ground. A sign, if the finish is compromised, your going to have finish lifting and water absorption, requiring repair. I dont know where you live and whats available, but i have been using poplar. It is a soft wood, fine grain and it cuts and v carves wonderful. Plus its cheaper than pine here. takes paint very well. here's a pic. not a good one though. V carved with one shot sign paint and Minwax spar urethane satin.

6030

[brian]

Rick
I live on the west coast of Canada.
Cedar and fir are native here.Poplar would be imported,pine would probably be a better option as it is harvested close by.

Thanks Brian

[joe]

Rick,

What are you taking about. This is a drop dead good example and I wish I had done it.

Poplar is a dream wood in so many ways. For the most part it's clear and smooth cutting. My experience with 8/8 poplar stock, used outdoors, it will split. Really Split. Still I love it for interior work.

It's important to keep the travel speeds up as it will leave burn marks at slow speeds.

Sure would like to see more of your fine work.

J