Spoilboard configuration for newer BuddyST48

[powerlsc]

I thought some of you innovative sign types might have some input on the thread I posted earlier.

At the Shopbuddy New Area topic site there are two of us with the 48" Buddy. The design change has a plywood table(1/2") with the plywood(11/16") work surface(2' x 4') glued and screwed down. The older models apparently had an aluminum base with holes of some kind.

We are wondering about the configuration and material the spoilboard should be. I don't know whether to just make a spoilboard for the raised work surface or the entire bottom board also.

I will be screwing down HDU for sign work and won't have a vacumn system. Is MDF too soft to keep screwing into over and over again or is another material recommended?

Right now the frustraion level is high and I'm about to resort to my hand carving tools.

I included 3 pictures of the new base and top in my other post if anyone cares to take a look and PLULEESE give me some much needed guidance. Thanks

[billp]

Lynn,
If I were going to use screws repeatedly in the same area I would rather have plywood as my base than MDF. The MDF will crumble, and patching it rarely works well.
If you are not going to cut all the way through the sign blanks you can also use carpet tape, cam clamps, etc. as backup.

[k4mg]

Lynn,

I have a BT48 also, but am somewhat confused by your question, but hope I can help. I consider the 2X4 section of the table as my spoilboard, and simply screw down parts to it. I first surfaced it off to ensure it was perfectly level. The larger 1/2 inch plywood is simply to cover up some of the pinch points.

I bought a 48 inch powerstick, and built a new spoilboard, where I interspaced t-track and 12 inch wide strips of 3/4 inch plywood as my spoilboard. I glued the 12 inch pieces to a larger piece of 1/2 inch ply as my sub-base. I can still screw parts to it if desired, but ususlly use the t-track.

Here is a link to a picture of the 4X4 arrangement being glued (http://www.k4mg.com/Hobbies/CNC/ShopBot/ShopBot%20Setup/IMG_0468.JPG)

If not clear or not what you meant, please let me know if I can help.

Barry

[k4mg]

Lynn,

I went and read your earlier post. The holes in the 2x4 piece of ply go all the way down to the underlying 1/2 inch ply, where the bolts go thru the 1/2 inch ply and into weld nuts into the t-track in the 8020 aluminum powerstick, just like the two sets of 4 bolts that don't go thru the 3/4 inch ply.

The drilling patterns I have found for the Buddy spoilboard are for the old board. If you are going to drill a new spoilboard for your new version, the holes are spaced apart 40 millimeters.

Barry

[powerlsc]

Bill and Barry,

Thanks for the input from you both. Bill, I will change to plywood for my spoilboard. One of the techs at Shopbot told me to use MDF when I called for support.

Barry, my 48" powerstick came with that 2x4 spoilboard glued on top of the sub-base. My confusion is that I am now limited to that 2x4 work area which defeats the whole point of the powersticks extension ability.

I was considering ripping the 2x4 section off and gluing/screwing down another 1/2" piece of plywood on top of the sub-base that came already screwed on the stick.

Now that I see your setup, your spoilboard configuration makes much more sense.
Where did you buy the track and hold down screws and handles?

Thanks for the picture. I now have something to pattern mine from. Is yours an Alpha?

Lynn

[k4mg]

Lynn,
Unless you have bought a longer Powerstick, as I did, you ARE limited to the 2X4 area represented by the 3/4 inch plywood on your surface.

I got the track from Rockler. It is on sale here (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21276&filter=t-track).
I saw you were going to use the excellent clamps offered by David Buchsbaum. I too was going to buy his cams, but I had already bought my t-track when I first heard of his cams, and at a camp ShopBot I found they required 3/8 inch track. Check with him as to where to buy that size.

Mine is a standard.

Barry

[toych]

Barry and Lynn.

I am using David's clamps with 5/16 t track from Lee Valley, using 5/16 washers as a bushing.

Davids clamps work very well and they are a great value.

Darren

[powerlsc]

Barry,
Since I have only seen the Buddy run once at the Austin Jamboree, I now understand my whole misconception of the work area. Thanks for clearing it up.
I have put in a call to David to verify the track size. Thanks Darren, I'm ready to get on with this and finally plug the thing in!
Lynn

[jamesgilliam]

Lynn, Even though I don't have a Buddy I would be willing to help in any way I can. James

[joewino]

Lynn - I got your phone message but have been out of town for awhile. Since I don't have a Buddy, I probably would not be of much help...but it looks like you have found your solution here.

Good luck with your new toy.

[powerlsc]

James,
Since you're so close I'm sure I'll be seeking your expertise at some point. I appreciate the offer.

Raymond,
I got all kinds of helpful feedback for my spoilboard. I'm planning to blow right through the one supplied by Shopbot then when I need a new one I'll put on a system just like Barry Rimmer has. His idea seems to be what will be most practical for me in the long run.
Apparently my Buddy table came from the shop different from all the previous pictures on the web and in the literature. Obviously it confused the heck out of me. As soon as my new CPU arrives I should be able to power up and see what other trouble I can get into.
Thanks,
Lynn