Router Bit Choices

[Keith Blaine (Unregistered Guest)]

Hello,

Sorry I'm showing up as an "unreigstered guest". I can't seem to register. I've tried 3 times and I never get the confirmation email. 3 different email addresses, all different domains, so I know it's not the spam blocker.

Anywho, I'm looking to get some Her-Saf insert bits for my PRT96. Bits I'm looking at:

1.) 1/2" insert
2.) 2" insert
3.) 1/2" core box insert (circular insert)

I also want a plywood dado bit and V-carving bit. For the plywood dado bit, I have a choice of 23/32" or 47/64". Which would you choose? Also, what angle and size of V-carving bit is best to get into crevices of moldings and such?

Lastly the 2" bit is a planing bit for spoilboard surfacing. $30 more gets me a a 2.5" bit. Will 1/2" make that much of a difference and is it worth the money? Will the added diameter be harder on my Porter Cable router?

Thanks.

[jamesgilliam]

Keith, I am not sure where to tell you to get the Her-Saf bits as I have never used them. On your dado bit it depends on how tight of a fit you want. Personally the tighter the better, so what I do is after drawing the dado slot, usually about .010 smaller than the thickness of the material, is to offset the lines for several toolpaths and use the 1/4" bit I use for cutout to do the dado. This eliminates a tool change, and when I start the cut file I can go do something else. On the V-bit it depends again on the depth of detail you want. I have tried the 90 degree and 60 degree bit. The 90 will give you a shallow cut for V carving text, but I do prefer the 60 because it gives me more of a defined line. The one I have had the best luck with is the Woodtek number 932292 from Woodworkers Supply. It is a 3 flute solid carbide 60 degree bit, a little pricey, but well worth it. For the spoilboard I would go with the 2". The few minutes you save with the 2,5" is hardly worth the extra cost of the bit. Hope this helps. James

[garyb]

order direct
www.hersaf.com (http://www.hersaf.com)

[ron brown]

Keith,

I have several Her-Saf bits. I use a 1 -3/8" bit for surfacing. It can put plenty load on a 7518PC router. I don't surface the table all that often and many times it is when time is not that important - "after work" or between projects. I might get a dedicated ply dado bit if i did a lot of it or I might do as James suggests and make two passes with a smaller bit. I have never seen two lots of sheet goods measure the same - many from one end of a sheet to the other.

V-bit gets a lot to persoanl preference and exactly what one is planning on doing. Larger things will need wider angle bits and "fine" stuff can use more narrow bits.

Ron

[cncdr@msn.com]

on the subject of router bits.
I work in the metal cutting industry and was wondering if a 1/2 roughing end mill was ever tried by anybody to cut wood. I've been contemplating trying one but they are pricy. When cutting metal they reduce the cutting forces conciderably and allow greater feed rates and depth of cuts but have to be followed bu a finishing tool

[gerald_d]

Donald, we use metal cutting bits for wood. We havn't bothered to try a roughing bit because we can't see how that will reduce the number of passes - plus it will increase the number of bit changes.

[donaldroy (Unregistered Guest)]

Gerald,
Yes, I to Also use metal cutting bits. I was considering Profile cuts especially in thicker material. It is true that it would add a tool change, but it may cut faster and deepper saving time on long perimiter cuts and the tool change might be neglegable.
well I guess if I don't hear anyother feed back I'l have to experiment myself. Thanks anyway for the feed back.
Don

[gerald_d]

It may cut faster and deeper, but what then..... change the tool and cut again to get the finish? So we use a finish cut tool and cut 2 smaller passes.....same cutting time, less tool changes, and a cheaper bit.

But, if it can remove material 3x faster, then it becomes interesting......

[donaldroy (Unregistered Guest)]

Gerald,
That's the point it may be 3x faster or more. It certainly would not be for every job. To be a direct trade in time would be useless. I'll let you know what my test reviels.
I just Wanted to know if anybody tried it and I guess you haven't. I don't expect anyone to waste any time or money on my behalf. there are certainly some big unknowns. Time and cost.
Thanks again
Don

[don_roy]

by the way Gerald Happy New Year

[harold_weber]

Don, Onsrud sells wood roughing bits, so SOMEBODY must be buying and using them. Suggest you call Onsrud's TOLL FREE number and ask them to recommend a bit. If you try one, please post the results here for some closure.

[don_roy]

HI Harold,
Thanks for the info.I did do a little reserch and fornd a metal cutting .375 rougher for about $15.00. I thought that was inexpensive. Oh this was cobalt not carbide. I will do some testing and also call Onsrud.
Don

[richards]

I have used some roughing cutters that I had left over from a vertical mill that I owned several years ago. The cutters did exactly what I expected, which was to remove a lot of wood quickly. They also left a rough edge, which required a 'regular' cutter to smooth.

Gerald's comment that using an additional cutter might/would be slower than using a single cutter is exactly right. The time wasted changing a cutter is lost production time. Sometimes wasted time to change tooling is less important than following a prescribed sequence (such as sanding - I always start with 100 grit and then progress through 120, 150 and 220 - starting out with 220 would do the job, eventually), but using a roughing cutter followed by a regular cutter didn't meet my needs.