Chrome?

[robtown]

So I downloaded Freemill last week and spent the weekend experimenting with 3d carving.

This morning I get a call requesting a dimensional version of the Lexus logo, chrome and all. (karma or what?)

I can do the modeling and carving part, but can I do the chroming part? (or get it done, somehow?)I'd be using foam, but I don't know if I'd use HDU or just pink foam.

[Brady Watson]

Rob,
You'd have a tough time nikel/chroming foam...or almost any other substrate you can reasonably carve.

If I had to do it, I would look into a few things. 1st, I would look at the Silver "C" metallic coatings from Ron Young at Sculpt Nuvous. They are water based epoxy, *very* tough and can be machine buffed when dry to a nice luster.

The other thing I would look into is thermofoiling or a foil-type vinyl that can be adhered to the surface of the foam. A product called ChromeFX comes to mind here.

I would avoid using a 2-part liquid spray system that uses silver nitrate and ionized water. They tend to be very tricky to apply, expensive and many times 'burn', making the surface yellow. (You may find these types of systems in your research)

Hope that helps,
-Brady

[billp]

Rob,
We just had a similar job here doing the Ferrari logo. We carved a master, the client built a mold from that, and then produced a bunch of resin logos. He then tried a number of various options to get them chromed, most of which turned out to be disasters. The material you make the final piece in will have a lot to do with the method(s) available to you. We have since found someone who is using products from the Alsa Corporation and spraying on a chrome like surface. There is also the product made by Silvachrome which actually gives a mirrored surface, ( check Google for contact info on both..). BUT in both cases he had to buy special spray guns, and the prep work involved was nothing short of a nightmare.(As Brady pointed out above..).
In the interim the client found another shop which offered to "really" chrome these pieces ( each being 6 inches tall, and 3 inches wide) for "only" $325 apiece....Last I heard the Alsa product was going to be the coating used, but it does NOT really replicate a true chrome finish.
Brady is right in suggesting the Sculpt Nouveau products. If you get their "C" series of coatings they can ne machine buffed up to a very bright luster, PLUS they are water based to begin with meaning much less hassle, and no special equpiment.
If I were you I'd take on the carving job, and try to delegate the chroming to someone else....

[robtown]

"If I were you I'd take on the carving job, and try to delegate the chroming to someone else...."

I'm totally down with that.

Next question:
Anybody know of a shop in the SE that can apply one of these type finishes to my carved product?

R

[ron brown]

Interjecting a thought... is the object of such a size you could cut it in aluminum and polish/or/and/chrome it?

A man can do a lot of polish for several hundred dollars.

Ron

[Brady Watson]

Rob,
YOU can spray the Sculpt Nouveau Silver "C" with a regular spray gun or buy the stuff ($120/gal) and have a painter spray it. No need for primer on sign foam and 3 coats should do nicely. You can then buff the surface with a buffing wheel.

Another thought for you (and probably how it was done to begin with) is to vacuum form a Mylar laminated piece of plastic over a mold. If you milled the design out of MDF, it would give you many pulled parts. A regular shopvac does a nice job...but heating the plastic sheet may be a problem if you don't have the equipment. You CAN do it with a heat gun...but it would take some time. This is how Philadelphia Sign Co did it when I worked there years ago. They made the vac-formed signs for the Eckerd Drug chain with a plywood buck, a shopvac and a dude with a heat gun that kept going around it. The sign was about 30" X 84" and had a 5" draw. Just an idea for you...

-Brady

[robtown]

Ron,
The prismatic shape, and ensuing depth would make this not a good candidate for milling from raw aluminum.

Brady, my shop is right across the street from a sign company that does pulled faces, and we do favors for each other from time to time.

[robtown]

Hey Brady,
If you have any insight into the laminating of Mylar to DR material, can you post it?

[Brady Watson]

I believe that there are products out there that have the mylar already adhered to the plastic for thermoforming. I'll see if I can find some.

...and here ya go: http://www.grafixplastics.com/duralar.html

If that won't work for you, Avery sells metallic films that any vinyl shop can laminate for you.


-Brady

[bleeth]

Rob: Although the last time I needed parts chromed was back when I lived in the Northwest I have always been able to track down the best local options for chroming parts via Bike (Motorcycle for you pedal pushers) shops. If you must chrome the part then carve it out of aluminum. You will need to spend much time totally polishing your piece as every imperfection shows through the final chrome but aluminum will take chrome and of course can be carved- - verrry slowly.

Dave

[johnny_s]

Rob- there is a plastic sheet with mylar already laminated on it for vacuum forming. One of my formers showed me a sample and it was tight. The chrome was uniform in the corners. As Brady said, make the master out of MDF. Seal it and sand nicely, as imperfections will be amplified on a mirrored finish.

IMO, Sculpt Nouveau is really great stuff, and would work fine as well, but you might have a tough time buffing out the corners.