Spackle

[john_hartman]

I have been using vynil spackle for some time now recommended from an article in Fine Woodworking. I like how it goes on and sands, however it can show through the final coat of paint. My process is; fill any visible defeats, sand, primer, fill newly visible defeats, sand, 2nd primer coat, sand, 1st coat paint, sand and a final coat of paint.
I use BM WB Impervo which yields excellent results. The problem is that larger defects, such as a 1/16" gap, can be visible in certain angles of light when covered with vinyl spackle. Basically where ever the spackle touches the wood leaves its trace. Muralo is a brand which was recommended by someone on woodweb, but is not locally available. Is this a good product to use or this there a better WB filler to use?

[voll]

I use Rock Hard for the bigger stuff and follow it up with spackle similar to what you are doing. Rock Hard doesn't shrink like spackle does and it dries quickly. I use Seamfill when filling Sintra

Is it possible the spackle is shrinking and then showing up as a defect? In a straight line, I've noticed spackle can pop out as well.

[knight_toolworks]

what about bondo never had a problem with it and it dries fast.

[beacon14]

I usually use Bondo for the first round on cracks and nail holes, then finish up with spackle. The thinner layer of spackle shrinks less than a thick layer would. I sand the Bondo with 120 grit and the spackle with 150 or 180 grit. It takes very little sanding since I don't leave the Bondo proud of the surface. The Bondo does shrink a little, just enough to leave some room for the spackle. I make sure to sand (using a sanding block) until the surrounding wood is flush and smooth, and don't usually see any blemishes or evidence of the spackle through the paint if I'm careful and thorough.

[john_hartman]

Steve- Is Rock Hard that powder you mix with water that sets up very quickly? I haven't had a problem with the spackle popping out. At best a small 1/16" gap at most. It's just where the spackle touches and dries on the wood where the bleed though shows up. I think those areas get polished to a different texture after sanding, affectively sealing the wood (poplar or maple). I have to apply it very carefully to control this. So this is also a time saving quest.

David- Never used Bondo. Isn't that designed for automotive body work and needs to be mixed with a catalyst? What kind of spackle are you using?

What I'm using now is fine for small brad nail holes. The main areas of visual bleed through are when trying to seamlessly attach solid stock to ply. Like a table edge or shelf support. I spent a lot of time on prep work and no matter how well I think it's been done small defects will appear after the 1st primer coat goes on. These really are not glaring imperfections, just my critical eye.

[voll]

Rock Hard is water based and it dries v. fast and shrinks v. little. I try to stay away from toxics as much as possible.

Is it 'flashing' that is happening? Maybe a damp sponge to take off that last bit of spackle to keep the texture even.

I agree with David. Use as little as possible, even a flathead screwdriver for nail holes.

[beacon14]

John, Bondo is usually associated with auto body work but it's a little-known secret weapon of a lot of cabinetmakers, especially for laminate work. It comes with a tube of hardener - the more hardener you mix in, the faster it sets up. Also the higher the temperature, the faster. Start with just a dab of hardener, you might get 10 or 15 minutes of working time, with a little more on a hot day you might not get the 3rd hole filled before it's too late.

I'm using regular vinyl spackle.

When attaching solid wood edges to plywood I always run the solid wood over the jointer (I typically joint and plane all my solid wood anyway, so it's usually already done), and often run the plywood edge over the jointer as well. Then I glue and clamp the assembly instead of nailing whenever possible. A nice tight joint with no gaps or nail holes beats Bondo and spackle any day.

[wberminio]

I find that when I attach a solid edge to plywood,and then paint,there will eventually always be some visible movement at that joint.
After jointing,as David suggests,I ease the top edge of the joint edges.
This leave a clean,crisp,transition between the joint.
When the wood moves(not if)the movement will not be as noticeable.
I also use Bondo,Spackle and Rock Hard they all work fine for the right job.

Erminio