Coat Rack using scene from new VectorArt3D Wildlife Series

[tmerrill]

Just finished my first project using a ready made scene included with the new VectorArt3D Wildlife Design & Carve series.

Overall size is 50" x 9" and took around 8 hours to rough and finish in hickory. Finished with shellac and glaze (3D image) and spray lacquer for final coats.

Using tips and techniques in the included tutorials, I was able to merge a rectangular scene into an oval dish. The left side didn't come out as well as I would have liked, but it was my fault and a lesson learned.

Thanks for looking.

Tim


877

[coach]

Very Nice Tim, A little paint or stain and the left side could look like a rock. That is some nice detail.
What did you use for a bit?

[tmerrill]

Thanks David.

Finish path was using Gary Beckwith's 1/8" tapered ball nose at 3 ips.

Thought about trying something fancy with the left side, including a 3D inlay. Finally decided to chalk it up to experience and get on with the next project. Figured if the wife liked it, I was home free. If not, I could always use a coat rack in the workshop. She ended up liking it.

Tim

[benchmench]

Nice job Tim - and for a tough customer!

[khalid]

TIM.. excellent work and excellent idea... I love the imbalance in the scenery created by the left side..its really look natural now..Thanks for sharing..

[gene]

I would have not noticed if you had not pointed it out. It looks great. When you carved it did you cut it on the x or y axis . I hope that was understandable. I guess i could say did it cut long ways or short ways

[tmerrill]

Gene,

For this I had the board layed out in the X direction and rastered in X to cut with the grain.

I normally like to do 3D with the grain oriented along Y so I can raster in Y. Seems better just moving the mass of the Z car rather than the entire gantry. But since this was over 50" long, and I have a 48x96 PRT, I had to go in the X direction.

We met at Robert's shop in January at the camp. I look forward to seeing you again at Jim's in October.

Tim

[rcnewcomb]

quote:I normally like to do 3D with the grain oriented along Y so I can raster in Y. Seems better just moving the mass of the Z car rather than the entire gantry.I usually raster on the X since I figure two X motors are better than one Y motor, but you bring up an interesting point about less mass moving around on the Y direction.

[tmerrill]

Randall,

I don't think there is a right or wrong answer regarding X or Y. For this carving in the X the cut quality was excellent, the same I normally see in the Y. I guess it's more habit than anything else.

Tim

[gene]

I was wondering if there is less stress on the cutter one way or the other. Or maybe a time advantage to cutting a certain way

[mikeacg]

Good question, Gene! I did some tests when I first got my Buddy to see if I could speed things up that way and I noticed an increase with the Y dominant (I am guessing that the X was slower because the table moves but I can't prove it except by numbers). Now I am running a lot more 3D stuff so I guess more tests are in order.
Tim - your work is great and I see that you made the Vectric website for this piece. Thanks for sharing!

Mike

[gene]

I have a 48x96 prt alpha with a spindle and upgraded the motors to the 7:21 ratio. My table doesnt move and i am trying to figure what will be the best and fastest on my machime. I have not cut any 3D on my machine yet, i bought a aftermarket reference manual for aspire and have been reading it to try to limit breaking bits. When i first got my bot i broke enough bits that it almost broke me. Thanks for the help. Are you going to Jims in Oct?

[tmerrill]

Gene and Mike,

I'm not sure any testing to determine best speed using raster X verses raster Y would ever determine a clear winner. 3D work, especially as the model gets more detailed, revolves more around Z axis movement. I normally set my finish path speed at 2-3 ips, but doubt that it approaches 1 ips (average) in practice. So I would go more for quality of cut, which reduces the hands-on time to prepare it for finishing.

Gene,

If you routinely do a roughing pass, which I personally recommend, and only leave around 0.03" for the finish path you shouldn't break any bits.

For starters I'd pick a simple 3D design (there are free samples on the VectorArt3D site that are excellent to start with), size it in the 8" x 10" range and give it a go. Use a 1/4" end mill for roughing, these you should already have, and an inexpensive 1/8" ball nose for the finish.

Tim

[khalid]

Tim..sometime i leave 3mm (1/8") for finish pass.. some time my rough passes get closer to 03 and i then give some allowance so that it become two.. Ball nose can easily cut upto its diameter, side ways.. 3mm ball nose, u can cut 3mm laterally..

And the other thing, roughing /finishing along the small side of your machine can be more productive (less time to machine), with some special tricks in CAM and controller software.

[genek]

what type of stain did you use and how did you apply it.

gene

[tmerrill]

Eugene,

The 3D image area was sealed with multiple coats of Zinsser's Seal Coat Shellac, which is a ready to use dewaxed shellac. It will give the wood an amber tint by itself. I then used thin coats of General Finishes Burnt Umber glaze to give depth and 'pop' the 3D image. Following this I gave the entire project multiple coats of Deft Clear Wood Finish Satin to seal the glaze and the rest of the coat rack.

If you go to the following link and read my post near the end of the page, I share the procedure I use. If you have any questions, please ask.

http://www.vectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=1742&hilit=glaze

Tim