Well I got her up and running and I look like a fool

[knight_toolworks]

Well I finally got power to my bot today and did I look like a fool. First I thought the x and y were backwards called tech but of course they were closed. Then as was pointed out it was my orientation to the machine. My face the bot and all the controls are wrong. Well I figured out how to change the x and the y so y is now the long axis. But the x buttons on the screen are still backwards how you swap the left to the right so the buttons match the direction. Hard to get used to clicking on the left button and the machine goes right (G)
Then I would think I had the machine zero’d and try to run the tabletop surfacer and since the mdf is 97x49 I was hitting stops. Well that was because I have a little more room in front then back and I would hit the back stops or the side stops. That would throw the x or y off and I would not notice so when I went to home that would be off.
Well anyway I finally figured out tabletop surfacer only moves the machine it does not lower the spindle or turn it on.
I should have gone through the walkthrough about surfacing the top in the manual.
I figured out how to turn on the spindle from the keyboard by filling the 1 toggle. But if I click on anything in the console it turns off. So how to load a file and turn on the spindle. I remember seeing the command but I can’t find it. Or should I ask how can I turn it on and keep it on while I Play around with the keyboard control and the control console. So I can play with the machine while the spindle is warming up.

At least my fears of electrical noise have not shown it’s ugly head yet.
does anyone have a chart on the speeds verses the display on the vfd that comes with the hsd spindle?

[dray]

Before you make a bad mistake. I would turn the machine around so that the orientation is correct with the keypad.

Wish I knew about the other, I bought the router. I couldnt afford the extra 5k for a spindle when the router was only $700

[knight_toolworks]

it's more the way I am facing the machine. I can only put the computer facing the the front of the machine. no room for it anywhere else. I will take a picture tomorrow. I know about the cost I had an inheritance thats the only way I could buy the machine. and it was the spindle or the metal table. now that I see if you change over to a spindle you have to send your control box back for rewiring glad I got the spindle.

[myxpykalix]

I'm not sure I understand your explaination (its me, not you) but your X axis is the LONG axis, Y axis is the SHORT axis, Z axis is up and down.

I'm not sure but if you have changed it so Y is the long axis my bet is that any files made where the material is set so the X is the long axis will not cut correctly on your machine, I could be wrong.

Additionally when you read tutorials and directions telling you to set things in certain axis's, if you don't mentally make that change you screw the file up. I recommend you set it up the right way.
If when you stand at the Y axis (short side) looking at machine and hit the right arrow and it goes left then you have something wired backwards. But of course that may depend on which end you are standing at.
Usually most guys have it set up so that their controls and computer are set up at the Y axis side where your 0,0 is set up which is the lower left side (if you are looking at it from the long side X axis) I know its confusing.
By setting it up that way you can tell it to (JH) jog home and do tool changes and your controls are right close by.

Depending on where you have your mdf attached to your table might be the problem with hitting the stops. I have a 10 ft long table with the mdf mounted 1 ft down the X and have 1 ft left over after it ends.

Regarding electrical noise and static, Brady gave me this tip. If you have dust collection get some bare copper braided wire run it through the inside of your dust collector hose and ground it to the housing of the collector.

I suggest you take a couple pics and post them that might give us a better idea whats going on.

The table top surfacer does in fact turn the router on and lowers the Z axis. Do you have a Zzero plate? Is your spindle wired into the control box?
You Z zero to the table top surface, set your bit at 0,0 on X,Y and the surfacer will take off a preset amount for the table. Mine is set at 30 thousandths, i don't know what it is set at from shopbot.

When you are running a file your mouse gets locked into the STOP button area so if you need to stop suddenly you aren't stumbling trying to get the mouse to that area and if you hit the spacebar it stops the file and shuts off the spindle. Hope that helps, and if i'm incorrect please point that out guys.

[knight_toolworks]

your right then the y becomes long and everything would need to be reconfigured. so I have to spend time trying not to get confused running the thing (G) I have to move the prox switch back on the right side now.
when I ran the surfacer I had the bit a 1.0 I I used the zzero plate to get it set. but when I ran it it ran the pattern but the spindle never turned on. so I take it you need the bit set to the height you to remove material. yes the spindle is wired to the control box and I can turn it on with the k and then click on the 1 toggle.

[myxpykalix]

I don't know what the shopbot configured surfacer file is set to on the depth it takes off but all you have to do is set your Zzero to the table surface and it will start the file and plunge the Z to the proper depth that is programmed into the file. Mine is set to 30 thousandths. You do NOT have to set your Zzero then manually go down (X thousandths)and start file.
re: table setup, It was extremely confusing to me at first because it seemed reasonable to have it setup different than it is, but you will get used to it quickly. I STRONGLY recommend you set it up to according to the accepted X,Y,Z for many reasons.
Also there will be times when you want to manually cut things and if your left arrow is set to go right and you have a lapse of memory your piece or bit may get ruined or both.
Remember get a couple pics, they tell a better story than you do.

Usually files created with partwizard or artcam have a piece of code built in that pops up a box and says "is your router/spindle on?" thats when you hit that second (back) button on the outside of the control box. That turns the power on to the spindle, but of course you have to have the switch to the spindle turned on. I don't have a spindle but a router wired to the control box but its the same principle.

[knight_toolworks]

if I go back to the defalt setting it is going to be a pain with the buttons verses the maine direction. the up down buttons move the y back and forth and the side to side moce the x up and down. but when your facing the machine that makes no sence really. it's too bad you can't just re program the buttons for the movement you want without effecting the machine settings. that would be a practial thing.
Ok there may be an issue. the only way I can get the spindle to turn on is to hit k and flip the 1 toggle. I may or may not have to hit start. but if I don't flip the toggle I can't get it to turn on by hitting start.

[fleinbach]

Steve,

When turning on the spindle manualy the number one toggle needs to be turned on. It does not need to be turned on when running a file but you will get a prompt telling you you must turn on the spindle. This is for saftey.

As for your description of the movement of the X and Y it sounds correct to me. The up/down move the Y axis and the left/right move the X axis

[knight_toolworks]

got the top surfaced. but the spindle still won't turn on auto. I have to push the start button every time. I have the 1 toggled on.

[fleinbach]

Steve, that is correct. You need to push the start button every time you want to restart the spindle. There is no auto turn on.

[knight_toolworks]

is there a command to type to do it?

[myxpykalix]

I think the command is:
G-E-T-O-F-F-Y-O-U-R-B-U-T-T,-P-U-S-H-B-U-T-T-O-N
lol..
I don't think there is a command because it is a contact switch, but i could be wrong

[knight_toolworks]

(G) I think I wore out my shoes running back and forth.
once I get the hang of it it won't be a big deal.
one thing shopbot help told me about is to get a program to reconfigure my keyboard so the arrow keys match up to what I expect the bot to do. that will make life far easier.

[knight_toolworks]

here is my setup. the control box is on the right side of the bot. one thing I need is a new power switch the thing fell apart the second time I tured it off.

7119

[myxpykalix]

The same thing happened to me...its still broke.

According to the picture there is something missing from your shopbot.....SAWDUST!!

[knight_toolworks]

they ordered several switches so it seems to be an issue. can I get away with just turning off the breaker?
that pic was right before flattening the top. but my dc is pretty good so only when it was off the table edge did any exscape hows this? and you can see my dc setup

7120

7121

[myxpykalix]

no what i have done is taken tape and covered the hole in the door. I then open the door and turn the round switch switch off. I'm not at the machine so i can't tell you to turn it left or right but if you look at it and turn it gently there are indicators to show you which way to turn it. At the base of the long stem there is an arrow indicator, plus it will only go so far in the wrong direction. If you have to use much force, you are turning it the wrong way. Its pretty obvious.

[knight_toolworks]

I was thinking of the plain of keeping the door closed to keep dust out if I have to open it all the time to turn it on and off.

[myxpykalix]

its better to keep the door shut but my switch was broken from day one. You really don't get dust in there unless you're careless. Also think about it, you only go into the box after everything is shut down and no dust is flying, but it is better to keep door closed.

[fleinbach]

Steve,

You can move your start button closer to where you run your computer from. It is only a simple 2 conductor circuit. You could also rerun your reset button along with it. That is what I did to make life easier. They can be removed from the control box and be remounted into a small utility box obtainable from places like Radio Shack. Another alternative is you can leave them in the box so you don't have to plug the hole and just use new switches in the remote location. These 2 buttons a simple montary contact buttons.

[richards]

Steve,
If you move your Start and Reset bottons to a new location, do youself a favor and twist the wires (one twist every four to six inches is enough). It will help cut down on electrical interference. After Frank posted his modifications to his controller, I've been thinking of doing the same thing to mine so that the switches are near the keyboard. So far, I still walk back and forth to push the button every time I start the spindle. If I ever get to the point that I have an employee, I'll connect two start buttons in series so that the employee has to use both hands to start the spindle. As far as I've read, that's an OSHA safety requirement.

Have you checked your Disconnect Switch? Is it possible that the shaft has 'slid'. I had a problem with my Alpha a few months ago after I opened the control box. The problem was that the 'shaft' had been pushed a little and was no longer long enough to mate with the switch. My disconnect switch has a shaft holding bracket with set screws. By adjusting the length of the shaft and then securing the set screws, everything started working again. Be very cautious about bypassing the Disconnect Switch. It is a safety feature that protects you. If it is really broken, it's best to get it fixed before using the machine.

[knight_toolworks]

great idea on the buttons sure easier then moving the box. she shaft had moved but the knob and what held it on came off. never found what held it on.

[wayne_walker]

Steve,

My setup is simular to yours with my computer on the opposite side. I do have access from all sides, however I access most of my work from the end. It took me a while to get use to it. I kept making the wrong arrow move until I marked the keyboard with a felt marker. It took care of the problem. It is just one less thing to think about.

Wayne

[knight_toolworks]

I found some freeware software to remap the keyboard keys so now they work in the direction I want. I also brought a bluetooth keyboard so I can go to the table and see whats happening nice and close while controlling it.

[tuck]

Quote from Danny Ray:

"Wish I knew about the other, I bought the router. I couldnt afford the extra 5k for a spindle when the router was only $700"

Great gooly-moogly, Danny! What kind of dang router did you get??? :0