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View Full Version : 220 Volt Routers and Milwaukee 5626-20 Update



cjohnson
02-22-2007, 09:36 AM
My PC router is about to give up the ghost and so I am now evaluating alternatives. I do not have enough production to justify a spindle at this time so I would like to hear your feedback/update concerning noise, performance, torque, would you buy it again, and any other feedback on:

1. 220v Routers if you have one
2. The Milwaukee 5626-20 Router
3. Other routers besides the PC

I think it would be interesting to hear how these have withstood the test of time and your own feedback / opinions.

Thanks,
CJ

ed_lang
02-22-2007, 10:21 AM
I understand your production/cost to justify a spindle but please look hard at the HSD spindles before you install another router.

I just installed a 4HP HSD. It replaced my PC7518. World of difference is every respect.
Collet sizes
Noise
Power
Cut quality
speed control
speed constant

I respect your decision to go router, but wanted to gently tug you towards a spindle if that could be worked out.

Good luck!

Ed

cjohnson
02-22-2007, 11:12 AM
Thanks for the tug Ed. It doesn't take much to get me in the doghouse when it comes to spending money on my bot. HSD could very well take over the CNC router market if it could market a product between its current offering and the production router market such as PC and Milwaukee. I am sure a spindle will be in my future but for now my focus has to be on the performance and opinions of the PC alternatives. The archives reveal what those alternatives are but its been a while since we have received feedback over time. Especially when it comes to the 220 volt routers. Most of my woodworking equipment is 220 volt due to the better torque available. However, in the CNC router world, there is relatively few that have chosen the 220v router route. While there may not be many 220v users out there, there are a lot of Milwaukee users who has used their routers long enough to give us PC users some good feedback. Thanks in advance for your opinions.
cj

paco
02-22-2007, 12:42 PM
Craig,

I do highly recommend the MK over the PC. I have both. Both are 15amps motors. Both are easy to service. Both cost about the same from what I saw recently; shop around the Web. Both fit the SB router mounting; the MK is about 0.04" smaller so you'll need to shim.

The MK has a much better speed/torque control compare to the PC. The MK is less noisy and doesn't get as hot as the PC. The MK offer a better range of speed and has better collet design.

I just finish carving large mantel is both MDF and solid Birch and the MK bearing failed so I swapped it for the PC. Roughing with the PC slowed me down of about 25% on the feed to keep up with the less than desirable speed/torque control. Same story with aluminum routing; the non-constant speed/torque of the PC make the milling very unstable while the MK stand very steady as long as you don't push it too much with large cutter.

I believe the MK offer a better warranty than the PC too... that doesn't apply to normal wear of parts like brushes and bearings though.

One drawback (I should be honest right?); the MK collets are up to 4 times more expensive than the PC's... again, shop around.

Look that you'll have to deal with 120volts if you go wit the MK.

I just got my replacement bearings today so I should be posting MK bearing services procedure soon on my blog (http://pacosarea.blogspot.com/).

paco
03-04-2007, 01:08 AM
I finally post the MK5625 bearings replacement "How-to" (http://pacosarea.blogspot.com/2007/03/milwaukee-router-5625-bearing.html). Many pictures.

Let me know if it help and what you think.

rustnrot
03-04-2007, 09:32 AM
Paco, I am unclear on your choice of bearings. You used UNshielded vs. Shielded for original? Also, please post the catalog numbers of the aftermarket bearings you used.

paco
03-04-2007, 10:48 AM
The factory install and the ones you'll get from MK is are sealed. I chosen to install a shield for the lower (bigger) one.

I got a SKF 6004 2Z. Double check as your can differ... but shouldn't...!?

cjohnson
03-07-2007, 09:51 AM
Instatlled the Milwaukee today. Had to disassemble it to take the microadjuster off. I was able to get an idea how the brushes and bearings are setup. I had to put one round of alum flashing on the barrel so that the shopbot mount would hold it. To me, the milwaukee router has half the noise level as the Porter Cable. As far as weight is concerned, the porter cable is heavier by a couple of pounds. The Milwaukee seems to have more plastic in its design so I do not know how this will fair in durability. The only snag in this whole deal is the collets. I have every collet size for the PC including a fancy quick change collet that has a simple hex that is loosen to remove the bit. I have been able to find 3 collets for the Mil (1/4, 3/8, and 1/2). Luckly, I don't have any bits with a shank smaller than 1/4.

After all is said and done including the time and hidden collet cost, this modification was done with no regrets.

Thanks to all who posted helpful information over the years on this.
cj

drodda
03-07-2007, 11:45 PM
Craig,
I am also contemplating this purchase. As my PC is getting tired also. Why did you need to remove the microadjuster, was it in the way of mounting it to your Shopbot? Has anyone purchased the Jessem MK router with the seperate speed cotroll?

rhfurniture
03-08-2007, 02:55 AM
Paco,
2 Months ago I put an SKF6004 2Z in my Bosch, and have had to replace it today. The original bearings had 2 low friction rubber seals, and as they are exposed to the underside outside of the router I think dirt must have got in to my metal seal replacement. I will get some as the original: SKF 60042RSL ( 60042LFS )
They are more expensive, and I did wonder why the manufacturer used them rather than the cheaper metal shielded ones - now I know.

R.

paco
03-08-2007, 08:42 AM
That can make sense but unlikely unless the dirt is pushed inside... with compressed air?

Something I'm looking at is to pre load the bearings with a wave spring; because I want to eliminate some free play relate to clearance and because I have read that this free play can reduce the life expectancy of the bearings.
I should get those wave spring soon... let you know...

rhfurniture
03-08-2007, 11:01 AM
Paco,
Just took a shield off the offending bearing, and believe you me, it ain't clean inside - dust and grease mix. If I remember I'll bring a camera tommorow.
No compressed air devices - just heavy routing right up to a mm below collet.
I have a spare router, and the one I just put in has metal shield bearings, - so I'll see how this one gets on.

paco
03-08-2007, 01:55 PM
I do sure believe you (Robert?).

I'll see how mine last and keep you post.

Another specification to be aware of is clearance; that can be from tight to looser. The higher the RPM the looser it need to be (cold).

cjohnson
03-08-2007, 03:05 PM
Dave,
The micro adjuster was in the way. I considered the Jessem but couldn't justify the additional cost just for the closer switch.
cj

rhfurniture
03-08-2007, 03:50 PM
Paco,
It's Ralph.
The bearings that came out were standard tolerance (ie not C3) So that is what I have put back in. They do run pretty cool (much cooler than my steppers under any load), so in the interest of low "runout" I am not in a hurry to change that.
I have recently been routing 59mm (2.3 inch) birch ply, which definitely pushed the 11 amp router to its limit, so maybe it was a bit much for it.
Does the bottom bearing sit in a housing that is open downwards on the Milwarkee?
R.

conceptmachine
03-08-2007, 03:57 PM
Anyone tried the fein router yet? it looks like a good router,the only issue is that you will need to make a custom mount for it.i think i'll give one a try when my pc expires.
shawn

paco
03-08-2007, 04:45 PM
Ralph, check out this picture (http://picasaweb.google.com/the.real.paco/MK5625BearingsReplacement/photo#5037181479415849570)... more open than the PC.

Maybe you pushed it a little too much...?!

rhfurniture
03-09-2007, 02:04 AM
Paco,
Looks similar on your site to how it is done on the Bosch.

7404
The inside face of the seal is on the left. It was beginning to sound a bit course before the 59mm birch, so I do still think that dust ingress was an issue. It ran for near 2 years before I first changed it, so 2 months is a bit slim.

R.

paco
03-09-2007, 09:42 AM
I hope mine will last a little more...

Is that 'C..' that I see on the outer race (lower left)?

What the RPM it was run at (average)?

rhfurniture
03-09-2007, 10:45 AM
It says ..C I assume a C3 clearance would say .3C. Calls itself SKF Explorer Made in France 6004 - 2Z. RPM not sure - it is a 60hz (25000rpm) machine running at 50hz, so probably about 21K max. On that scale I run from about 13K up. Quite a lot of single flute RT cutters at 21K. Avg 18-19K approx.

trzebiatowski1
07-29-2007, 09:24 PM
Gentlemen,
I have PC 7519 220 volt router(3 1/4 hp-15 amps.) I'd like to know where to buy a separate speed control so I can use large cutters for say raised panels. I live in Chile and we only have 220 down here.

Thanks for your help, Greg

myxpykalix
07-29-2007, 10:06 PM
I have been told (regarding the 110 version) of the PC7519 that since it is a single speed that you cannot put a external speed control on it. I have forgotten the reason, but just know its not able to do it.

bcammack
07-30-2007, 02:07 PM
Could you utilize a variable transformer? (variac)
http://www.variac.com/staco_240_1ph.htm