More mechanical wooden silliness

[shoeshine]

Just a prototype of a iris mechanism cut out of 1/4" birch on the bot.

The outer ring rotates to open and close the aperture.

Thinking I am going to make a peephole for my shop door.


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[david_white]

I would love to have the cut file for that . I am putting an addition on the house and would love to put one on each of the doors in the kids room.Great job Chris

[navigator7]

Cool!
(green with jealousy) ;-)

Are all the components the same thickness?

You could sell that to women looking for something unique for their husbands.

It needs a catchy name!

SpeakEasy Port?

[mikeacg]

Chris! Love it! I made something along these lines (I had seen it in an old Popular Science) on my laser out of colored plexi for a window shade but I did the iris like a real camera lens with overlapping pieces. I had all kinds of problems with rubbing and scratching of the plastic so you could hardly see out after while. I like this design with the pieces butting up so much better! Very ingenious - as always!
I have been bragging up your Bot in a Box to people when they come to look at mine.
Thanks!
Mike

[carve_1]

Wow Chris,, I like the engineering too,,,

my first thought when I saw your pictures was, how cool that would be for a doggie door,, and how the dog would trigger it to open so he could come in the house,,, kinda like our rabbit hound going "Star Trek".

[mikeacg]

Great idea Charles! Let's go crazy mechanical and have the weight of the dog on a ramp open it up too!

Mike

[scottbot]

That is SO COOL!!
I've wanted to build something like that for years but never followed through.
I think I'll use something like that to put a window in my shop door.

[scottbot]

Haha.
Just re-read your post and see that you are planning on using it in your shop door.

[carve_1]

Michael,,, I was thinking of an electric eye into which our rabbit hound would do that crazy V-shaped hand jesture that Spock did,,,,, the dog already has Spock's ears.

[gene]

Make a big one for the door to your shop. It looks like an apeture ring in a 35mm camera.

[navigator7]

It looks like the sphincter in the machines from the War of The Worlds with Tom Cruise.

I don't mean that in a disrespectful way....If aliens used an aperture to seal out space.....
I digress.

o Be a killer top for a trash can?
o It could be advertised as an accoutrement to a women's restroom door. Might be a good seller to the yoots of our nation?
o It could hide a mirror?
o Frame a corian carved lithopane?
o A photography store would have to own one!

;-)

[mikeacg]

Only you, Chuck, would see a sphincter...

mike

[cnc_works]

Chris, I guess I have to ask to be put in line for a dxf file for that gadget. I'm of the vintage that I actually used large format cameras with iris shutters. That is so cool.

Donn

[mikeacg]

I would like to be on the list too! I'd like to maybe use it as a box top for one of my boxes.

Donn,

I still have some of those cameras! I'm going to have a photography museum one of these days. I think I have about 1500 cameras right now...

[shoeshine]

No problem gents, I am posting the DXF.

WARNING---let me say this though.

on a completeness scale of 1-10 this is at most a 2-3. Definitely a prototype, It works but not well yet. This is the very first physical try of the concept.

So, just be warned the drawing at this point is really just to illustrate the idea. It needs tweaking to work.

I had to gang up the leaves and sand them slightly on my disc sander till they fit right. I still need to figure out allowances for friction and a few other finicky bits. I also need to add a chase in the substrate so the bolts have somewhere to turn, as you can see now the bolts are sticking up because there is nowhere to put a nut on. I also need to come up with some sort of retaining ring for the outer bearings, because right now it only works laying flat on the table.

Note: the tiny circles are not accurately dimensioned, they are just to indicate drilling points (drill holes for whatever bolts you use.
The drill points on the 5 outside tabs are based on some .75 bearings I happened to have. modify as you need.

I have a number of ideas on how to improve this now that I have proof of concept. And I will post as I work it through, as there seems to be some interest. I figure about 3-4 more tests and I might actually have something.

of course if any of you do something cool with this... please post and give details. together we can come up with something really tight.

Chris

www.schaie.com/shopbot/IRIS_12in_prototype_01.zip (http://www.schaie.com/shopbot/IRIS_12in_prototype_01.zip)

PS due credit has to go to Michael Cosgriff aka "Robo Von Bismark" over on the brassgoggles.uk forum for the original idea

[myxpykalix]

That looks like the apature on a Haasablaad camera, or one of those big box type cameras that Ansel Adams used to use. Chris do you use your bot for business or hobby? I imagine the design took more time then the cutting. How many revisions till you got it right? Very cool!

[shoeshine]

Hey Jack,

At this point about half and half. I had a couple of well paying jobs that I knew the bot would make possible when I bought it. (justified the expense) But of course now I am having wayyy too much fun with it to just do corbels and rosettes. I mostly do one-off jobs making interesting things. Some for people who can pay - sigh.

and as to revisions... probably about 4 more ;-)

Chris

[bcammack]

Motorize it so it slowly opens and closes over a minute or two, repeatedly. Paint it black and then sell it to camera stores as novelty decoration.

Excellent work!

[zeykr]

Wow! Keep us up to date as you refine it. I can see one on the door of every shopbotters shop eventually. We'll be able to identify cnc shops just by seeing the front door.

[navigator7]

I don't think the Postal Service has the same sense of humor I do.

Most of my art ideas revolve around mail boxes.
Chris's work could be something out of Jules Verne 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea. The "mouth" or "beak" of the great sea monster that threatened the crew. Or the postal worker? ;-)

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[mitch_prest]

first its sphincters.... now its monsters... did we not get our medication this morning...

on a serious note.. I drew up your dxf in solidworks.. and I am really impressed with what you have there.. but I can see how you would have problems as the tolerances are so close.. it is a great job to get it to the point you are..

m

[eaglesplsh]

Sweet!

I don't know if it would improve your design, but you could include half-lap joints on the ends of your linkages. That would cutout one layer of thickness in your final assembly.

[mitch_prest]

I think gears are the way to go


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[mikeacg]

If you are going to use gears then I think an obvious accessory would be a submarine hatch type handle!

Mike


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[stevem]

You can eliminate the linkage and half the pivots, as well as increase mechanical advantage, by using slots in the outer ring. You can also eliminate the bearings by using the inner ring as a pivot.

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[shoeshine]

ohh now there's an idea. If I am thinking correctly, the slots would need to be curved as the pivots on the end of the leaves travel in a arc, but that shouldn't be too hard to calculate.

definately going to play around with that.

[myxpykalix]

Does the old saying "too many chiefs and not enough indians" seem fitting here? lol

I like that someone can put out an idea and others jump in to improve it.

Referring to Mitch's idea of the gears let me ask, would you want some type of acuator motor that only turns the gear a bit then when you hit the power source again it goes in the opposite direction? opening, closing?

[stevem]

Chris, the slots do not have to be curved. They do not even have to be angled. The angle just provides a "wedge" to increase mechanical advantage in both directions.

[shoeshine]

ahh ok, I think I get it. I guess I was still thinking in terms of a fixed pivot with the substrate being stationary, but you are talking about the whole slotted disc rotating?

interesting. I'll have to rethink the structure that holds the inner ring stationary.

...or, mabye even more interesting let the inner ring move and have the iris rotate as it open and closes.

[eaglesplsh]

If you were just concerned about manufacturing costs and material usage a slotted outer ring design would probably win. I have to say that I'm drawn to the linkages from an aesthetic/moving sculpture point of view point. Either way, I especially like all of the interacting curves in your design.

If you go with the slotted outer ring idea, you could use arced slots instead of straight slots. I've seen this technique used in other applications, but I can't remember why it was used. Maybe the arcs are intended to maintain a constant mechanical advantage throughout the movement?

[frankwilliams]

Mitch and Steve M, Sorry to bug you guys, but what software have you done your drawings in... solidworks?

[mitch_prest]

mine is in solidworks..

m

[mikeacg]

I'm with Russ on both counts. I think I will work with the linkages and put a sheet of clear plexi on top. I want people to see it!
I dug through my camera parts drawer and found the lens I used for my window shade design. The advantage to having the parts slide over each other is that the out ring does not have to be so much bigger than the smaller ring. The bottom piece has 12 equally spaced holes:

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and the upper piece has 12 slots:

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The iris parts are stamped out of very thin metal with a dimple on each end - one up to ride in the slot and the other down to fit into the hole. Turn the top ring (when you adjust your f-stop) and the iris closes.

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A pretty simple mechanism actually!

Mike

[navigator7]

@ Mr. Schnorr,
You wrote: "A pretty simple mechanism actually!"

Where you find simplicity, you find brilliance.
Why helicopters fly, I'll never know. A true contradiction.
The little clickers on the top of pens are fascinating to me.
This little doodad below is an air valving part of a hydraulic intensifier .
If you put 100 PSI air in, you get 1200 PSI hydraulics out.
The Doodad makes the machine automatically reciprocate with a brilliantly simple theme of pressure and area.

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The marketing appeal of SB's ability to produce quality Rube Goldberg products shouldn't be underestimated.
Here is a classic Rube Goldberg Honda Commercial. It's worth watching just to get invigorated. It reduces stress, loweres blood pressure, removes lines and wrinkles from the face, increases scalp hair growth and improves ones performance!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWk9N92-wvg

An aperture in a door or other prop, no matter how refined or how Rube Goldburg....if it works, How Cool!
I think these would be a heck of a Father's Day gift for women looking to get something for a man who has everything.
The cut file should be part of everybody's portfolio.

(So......Michael, have you figgered out how the protruding dimple is going to work?;-)

[scottbot]

I'm with Russ too.
I like the look of the linkages. You could leave them curved or make them cigar shaped and put some holes in them to make them look kind of Steam Punk. Paint them with some Sculpt Nouveau and you've got a pretty cool looking sculpture.
Instead of bearings on the outer ring you could go with Mitch's idea and use gears.
We're ShopBotters. It's almost a requirement to jazz this up.
Simplicity has it's place but in my opinion this isn't it.

[navigator7]

There is that word again!
"Steampunk"

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I'm liking that a lot.

[shoeshine]

I'll throw in my $.02 for overly complex geegaws and whatsits. As long as the mechanism works.

When I get the final version of this thing working I intend to put all sorts of engraving and detailing on it. maybe sculpt nouveau faux finish and patina. Probably a few gears that function but don't necessarily "do" anything.

This is definitely Steampunk in origin, In fact I got the idea from brassgoggles.uk which is one of the best SP resources out there.

SP has gone through a lot of iterations, in fact it hit mainstream a couple of years ago with articles in Vanity Fair and the like. The pop version of it has come and gone. With unfortunately a lot of people just gluing clock parts on toys spray-painting it brass and calling it steampunk. The ethos of the aesthetic though is functional items using low tech. The Victorian ideal of hand built craftsmanship, rather than mass produced. Mechanical rather than digital. Ironic that I am making it on a bot and talking about it on the web, I know.

anyway My favorite quote is "I love SteamPunk, I hate SteamEmo".

[chiloquinruss]

OK Chuck so i'm setting here LOL and my grandkids ask why? So I show them the clip, and then again, and then . . . . .


Thanks for the post. It is really fun to watch. Russ

[mikeacg]

Russ,

Don't encourage him! Ha ha ha!

Mike

[bcammack]

It'd also make a cool ceiling aperature for one of those Solar Tube skylights.

[oddcoach]

you could use a web cam with face recognition so it would only let your dog in and not the neighbors cat

[shoeshine]

OK this is cool....

a 30" mechanical IRIS window on you tube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuEqHp64UvQ&feature=player_embedded

after watching that, Michael, any chance you could get and post some accurate dimensions from those camera parts you have?

I need to finish this project first but then I definitely want to play with this other style of iris.

[mikeacg]

Chris,

I'm off to meet with a client on a new website in the morning but I will definitely get the parts drawn up sometime later on tomorrow (well, I guess it's already today!). I'll do them in Illustrator so we all have vectors to work with for our designs.

I like what is happening with this post. It will be interesting to see what everyone ends up with...

Mike

[chiloquinruss]

Chris - thanks for the post! That is a very clever and simple drive mechanisim. Russ

[shoeshine]

Michael Schnorr quite graciously broke out his micrometer and measured and drew up an old camera iris he had. As per his request I am posting the files for anyone interested.

http://www.schaie.com/shopbot/Michaels_Iris.zip

Thanks Mike!

[mikeacg]

Thank you, Chris, for starting this whole discussion! It's great to see everyone jumping in with ideas!

Mike

[shoeshine]

OK as famous as I am for starting something new before the last thing is finished...

I played around with Michael's drawings to make sure I wasn't missing a better design.

Here is a stab at a more traditional Camera IRIS.


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Clearly I underestimated the thinness needed for the metal leaves. I used a sheet of .020 brass I had to cut some 4" d. leaves.

I got 6 of 12 in place before it started to jam at the center leaving an approx. 3/8" hole when closed.

Michael, could you throw a mic on your parts again just for giggles and get a thickness of the leaves? and what is the total diameter of the rings?

Chris

[mikeacg]

Chris,

That is the same problem I ran into with my plexiglas shade model. They can get away with being so thin in a lens as they basically support each other and are encased between glass so they can't get damaged.

The diameter of the rings is 2.085 and the leaf is approx. .002 thick (hard to tell for sure - at that size the Mic needle is thicker than the part so I used the edge of the needle).

Mike

[navigator7]

Aren't the shutter pieces on a real camera frosted?
Errrrr...Orange peel?
Or ......Not mirror finished?
I believe this is a technique to reduce drag.
Chris...your brass may need to be blasted or roughed up?

[mikeacg]

Chuck,

In actual fact, a shutter leaf is smooth and matte finish but that finish is more a matter of reflection than friction. In order for the 12 pieces of metal to overlap and close for as small a hole as possible (the smallest hole being largest Fstop number of that lens, resulting in a slower shutter speed and more detail), they just need to be as thin as they can be and still function. Any surface texture would just make them thicker. Friction/drag has nothing to do with it...

Mike

[magic]

This mich works great
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66319

[gregb]

I'd like to thank Chris for starting this thread and sharing the prototype file. This was a fun project. Its being installed in a door for a peep hole (that was a cool idea). And, I'd like to share these files with all.

I redrew the iris making some small changes and after three attempts I finally finished the project. I used 1/4" Masonite (actually measures a little shy like 3/16") and 0.09" aluminum and used a 1/8" end mill for all the cuts. 1/4" x 3/8" shoulder bolts hold the large gear. The holes for the small gears were drilled, 1/8" and fitted with a short lengths of 5/32" brass as bushings which accepted 3mm screws for good fits. 3/16" holes were profiled with the 1/8" endmill on the large gear and the leaves where the arms attach and fitted with #6-32 tee nuts which protruded slightly through the Masonite. On the underside of the aluminum arms, I countersunk the holes just enough to fit snugly over the tee nuts and #6 -32 x 3/8" screws secured them. I attached a piece of clear acrylic to cover the hole. I used thread lock on all screws.

No matter what fasteners you use, as long as there is no slop, this should turn freely. This was a problem in my first two attempts. The large gear would move left or right instead of turning.

These might not have been the best choices of materials but, it worked fine. I think the next one I build will be entirely out of aluminum.

Hope you enjoy.

[jdervin]

One of the things I like about the wood/masonite versions is that the iris completely closes. I doubt that it's possible to completely eliminate the center hole with overlapping metal leaves (though it can certainly get quite small).

For what it's worth, here is a different version of a professionally manufactured iris -- this one is intended for use in a stage lighting instrument.

9237 9238 9239

[shoeshine]

NICE... Greg,

This project got "back burnered" due to a backlog of other work, but it has been itching at me the whole time.

I will definately incorporate the outside gear. Thanks for posting your files. I -have- to get at least one final piece made for the upcoming camp/s over here on the west coast.

I hear ya on the wood/masonite. I actually was thinking that the working parts on my final will be milled out of brass.

anyway yippee! I love seeing how others run with an Idea.

Thanks again for posting.

[tgm]

Greg,
Did you actually use the files posted to cut the parts for the unit shown assembled?? Thanks for posting by the way, but there seems to be a problem with the size of the large gear component as the diameter appears to be too small. The radial slots seem to have a smaller bolt circle diameter than the shoulder bolt holes in the base.
Can you check before I resize and screw something up??

Thanks again,

Tom in PA

[gregb]

Chris, I hope you get caught up with your other projects and give this a try again. I'm anxious to see some pics.
Tom, here is another file with the parts separated, nothing nested. All the holes mainly show location and I initially drilled all of them with a 1/8" end mill. I had changed the diameter of some of the holes when I changed the fasteners diameter and just drilled these out by hand. Don't change position of anything; maybe re-size depending on the fasteners you choose. Hope this explains what you need. If I can help with anything else, let me know.

[tgm]

Thanks Greg, I'll give it a whirl!

Tom in PA

[zeykr]

Looks like fun. Thanks for the files.

[mikeacg]

As long as we are playing with mechanical designs, I remembered seeing this and being fascinated. I'm sure some of you have already seen this but it might be worth posting for those who haven't:

http://www.wimp.com/expandingtable/

http://www.dbfletcher.com/

[chiloquinruss]

Reminds me of the 'rhythm' clocks.

http://www.allabouttime.net/MivaImages/BNEW.jpg

Russ

[jdervin]

I'm so glad you posted this. I remember seeing it awhile back, but was having trouble finding it last time I looked. It's bookmarked now!

[shoeshine]

Well here goes the 3rd iteration of this project.

I won't bother with posting #2 as it was just working out bugs.

Working parts milled in .093 brass
[ 1/8" non-ferrous 2 flute machining bit from Niagra Cutters, .3 ips, .1 plunge (ramped over .5"), 16k rpm, .02" passes = @ 3.5 hrs to cut ... I could probably up the speeds on this but i am still being conservative]

to be mounted in a nautical inspired mahogany door that I am in the midst of cutting. [design pic attached]

Thanks to Greg, I incorporated the gear you drew, and it adds a ton to the design. (note: your drill points for the shoulder bolts needed correction, FYI)

got some love at the So-Cal camp where I "showed & told" today. Best compliment was from Bill (Palumbo) who said "I want one, even though I have no idea what I would do with it"

When I get the cut file cleaned up, I'll post.

Chris

[sailfl]

Chris,

That is going to be one cool door. Great job.

Where do you purchase your Niagar cutter?

Thanks

[michael_schwartz]

that is too cool.

[gregb]

That's beautiful, Chris! I love what you've done with this. What problem did you have with the hole spacing? Mine worked fine. Thanks for posting, Chris.

Greg

[shoeshine]

Nils, I bought the cutters @ http://www.centerlineind.com/ amazingly cheap too. around $6 for the 1/8".

Greg, it may have been a file translation error but when I brought your drawing into Rhino the shoulder bolt holes were just slightly non-concentric. the first backer board I cut jammed about halfway.

[myxpykalix]

Chris,
I admire the dedication to seeing a project thru like this and like Bill I see things like this and say "I want one too", not that I would have a specific use for it right away but it's similar to this tool addiction we all suffer from, "we just have to have it!"

I have a suggestion for the outside of the door, if you have the modeling skills to model a mermaid in a pose in such a way that she is holding this opening or do some type of Jules Verne inspired design.

But why stop there! You could model the living room into the control room of the Nautilus complete with a periscope...(this is what happens when you watch too much tv as a kid!)
GOOD JOB CHRIS

[scottbot]

Oh wow!
That looks great Chris.
Thanks for sharing and especially the inspiration.
I have a plan in mind using your iris design but its probably a few months before I can get started on it.

I can't wait to see it installed in the door.

Scott

[shoeshine]

Funny you should mention that Jack, The reason I havent finished the door as of yet is that I am still playing around with drawings for a carved Kraken (the giant squid that attacks the Nautilus in 20,000 leagues) motif for the outside of the door's upper panel.

[myxpykalix]

I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with. Keep up the good work.

[gregb]

I apologize for sharing a bad file. The bolt holes in the base were wrong. I evidently snapped the holes off center when I rearranged the drawing.

[gregb]

I re-saved these compatable to AutoCAD R14. I removed duplicate parts in the dwg file to make it small enough to upload.

[blackhawk]

Hey Chris - You mentioned above that you would post your latest cut files when you had them cleaned up. I am still interested in them, if they are ready. Thanks.

[billp]

Chris,
I'm not sure if you are driving, or flying up to the Camp/Maker Faire, but if you ARE driving, and you have some room in your vehicle, I think everyone would really like to see this piece in person ! If not, please bring pix!

[shoeshine]

Bill, Ill be flying in, but it should fit in my suitcase. I'll bring it.

I might take the oppourtunity to ask around though if there is anyone who might be in the area that morning that could give me a ride with it to the gate. Last year I walked from my hotel, and it will be a pain to carry.

Stone Vill Inn San Mateo
2175 S El Camino Real

Brad, sorry I just need to merge several seperate files into one comprehensive one. Right now it is split up into a bunch of chunks to better utilize the brass I have on hand and wouldnt make much sense to anyone but me. But I promise I will as time allows.

Chris

[billp]

Chris I have sent you a PM via this forum.

[chiloquinruss]

I got to see the 'portal' in person at Maker Faire and well let's just say it was a real hit! Great job! Russ

[shoeshine]

If you all hadn't heard yet, this Iris mechanism won an editor's choice award yesterday at the San Mateo Maker's Faire. One of the "best of the fair" ribbons. Got a lot of great press.

It was picked up by BoingBoing.net in their tech blog. And it is looking like I might be able to sell them through the BoingBoing Bazaar.

I am deeply indebted to everyone here who contributed to make this design better (and a reality at all).

Thanks everyone.
Chris

[myxpykalix]

Make sure that those that contributed to the design get their 2 pennies per sale commission! That is very cool Chris...good job.

[daewootech]

so i was stoked when i saw it on gizmodo, linked over to the site and downloaded the dxf files from the first page, editing them a bit to fit into my laser with the acrylic that i have and started cutting the pieces out, then i came back to read the rest of the post like a dum dum, and realized i downloaded the early files, lol.

well heres what i got from those first files, im going to try to finishing tweaking the newer design and cut it out this week or next. but for now heres my first go at it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0y_uNoYqWM

[bkdotcom]

I found this thread via Boing Boing..
I started wondering how to do it with sliding leaves (as opposed to pivoting).. As such there'd never be a gap between the leaves. Same effect as having thin overlapping leaves.. Here the iris will completely shut.
I don't have shopbot... but I do have Google's SketchUp..

Since I don't have any way of actually building it, I didn't finish the design..
There'd be another rotating ring with slots or rods (as the "steampunk" version) that pushes/pulls the leaves in their tracks/rails. Also, the leaves could be tongue and grooved..

Thoughts?

[shoeshine]

That's a cool idea Brad. do you mind if I play with it a bit?

[bkdotcom]

Not at all.
I've attached the sketchup file in the .zip
maybe it'll be of some use.

My only "concern" about the design is how much friction/binding there might be with the sliding parts. It's almost hard to visualize how the pieces can slide with the others seemingly in the way all the time. :) My guess is this sliding design requires a bit more precision build than the pivot design.

[bob_dodd]

I cut this out of .125 fluorescent plastic 1.5 inch feed , made 4 passes with a 1/16" up spiral 3 flute bit , using the Brady 9/11 vac on 1 zone , all parts stayed in place (no tabs ) Thanks for sharing the file Chris ,

[lepton]

Such a cool project - thanks To Chris et. al. for making the files available to the community.

My version laser cut from 6mm birch plywood. Shellac to seal and protect then waxed. Stainless hardware.

http://lepton.s3.amazonaws.com/images/iris.PNG

Write up:
http://columbusideafoundry.com/?p=1370

3 Videos:
http://vimeo.com/user5664585

[shoeshine]

That's fantastic Paul,

I'd love a little detail on your Arduino set-up. I have a new Uno sitting on my bench that I have been intending to play with (so far I've managed to get the time to make it blink an LED) Several of my projects lend themselves well to motorization. Any jump starts on the sketches or wiring would be most welcome.

Thanks
Chris

[lepton]

Chris-
Setup was very straight forward.
Two required changes to the wooden parts -
1) the base plate was modified by adding the required mounting screws for the stepper as well as a clearance hole for the shaft.
2) new drive gear with a 'D' shaped hole for the stepper shaft.
Specifics will vary based on the stepper. Get your motor in hand(or at least the datasheet) before making the parts.

For the electronics I used 3 off the shelf pieces:

Arduino ($30.00):
http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=50

Motor Shield ($19.50):
http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=81

The stepper ($14.00):
http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=324

You can reduce the cost by at least 1/2 by going with a Arduino clone kit and building your own motor controller. The schematics are all open source.
I opted for speed of development vs. low cost.

The code is very straight forward. All the 'heavy lifting' is done be the Adafruit Stepper library.

The code couldn't be easier:

#include <AFMotor.h>

// Tell the AFMotor library that the motor has 200 steps/rev and is connected to motor port 1
AF_Stepper motor(200, 1);


void setup() {
// Set speed of stepper to 40 RPM
motor.setSpeed(40);

}

void loop() { // just like it sounds - the following sequence will repeat as long as the CPU is running.

// Rotate the stepper shaft 80 steps using both coils(higher torque)
motor.step(80, FORWARD, DOUBLE);

// Pause for 2 seconds
delay(2000);

// Rotate the stepper shaft 80 steps in the opposite direction
motor.step(80, BACKWARD, DOUBLE);

// Pause for 2 seconds
delay(2000);
}

[shoeshine]

Sweet, thanks Paul.

up till now I have been playing with small hobby motors, gearboxes and CR servos. Strange considering I use a CNC machine, but I have not thought to work with small steppers. Good to have a source for low cost small units. (though adafruit was sold out of the exact item, I was able to get a similar spec stepper from sparkfun once I thought to look for it)

nice to get the code in the adafruit stepper library, That will simplify matters considerably.

again thanks, though I have not had a chance to play with it yet, I can already see a ton of uses for this set-up.

appreciate the info.

Chris

[gregwest98]

I love this. I want to build one myself. And I just might...

[ironsides]

Hey Paul,
Is there a Forum online for "Laser Engraving/cutting"?
I have watched your video on cutting the Iris and very interested in perhaps buying a machine.

George

[lepton]

Sorry for the slow response

A few I lurk in:

Sawmill Creek - both the engraving & CNC
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/forumdisplay.php?53-Woodworking-Hi-Tech-and-Manufacturing

http://www.ladyada.net/library/laser/

http://forums.adafruit.com/viewforum.php?f=18

Also look for a hackerspace or community workshop in your area - they may have a laser:
http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/List_of_Hacker_Spaces

[bleeth]

If anyone wants to discuss building a laser this isn't the right place but a supplier turned me on to this website the other day:

http://www.buildlog.net/index.html

The nice thing about them is the frame and motors don't need to be nearly as robust as a bot. Lots of them are done with all extruded aluminum frames and pretty light steppers or servos.

[ironsides]

If anyone wants to discuss building a laser this isn't the right place but a supplier turned me on to this website the other day:

http://www.buildlog.net/index.html

The nice thing about them is the frame and motors don't need to be nearly as robust as a bot. Lots of them are done with all extruded aluminum frames and pretty light steppers or servos.

I'm not interested in building a laser machine myself, what I have been thinking about doing is combining the two crafts (CNC routing and laser engraving/ cutting). Such as using the SB to CNC cut a 3D photo profile, then using the laser to etch/engrave to fine details into the scene. Has anyone tried that?

Perhaps this thread should be moved to another place to continue this discussion.

George

[Enforcer83]

I know this thread has not been posted in for a few months but I only just stumbled upon it.

does anyone have a DXF or DWG file of the illustrator vector drawing. I do not have the ability to view vector graphics from adobe. I have been looking for dimensions for interleaved and sliding leaf irises so I can draw it up in AutoCAD for a little side project.

@Chris,

Are you still looking to automating the opening and closing of your iris? If so, I may be able to help. I am currently working on a stepper motor design for another project. I would be willing to port it over for your use. Depending on what you want to do, only a few modifications would be needed to the originial design but that is relatively easy.

[Sethers]

Hello talkshopbot! This is my first post in your forum. I just had to join when I read this thread. What great information and ideas you have here. Chris, I love your beautifully made door peep hole.

Anyone that is seriously interested and admires the iris would probably agree that we all just want to see it really .... Human sized. I want to make one as a door I can walk through. Ok, so before you start trying to tell me not to.... I think it will be possible. But I do thik I'll need some help from some of you experts in order to make it a really great well-working design.

Brad Kent on page 7 or 8 of this thread showed a design that I'm leaning toward using for two reasons. I think it will use up less extra space outside the door opening. And I like the gapless opening effect and the sliding, yet not overlapping, design of the 12 triangle parts.

Two things: I will make the triangle sections of the door anywhere from 1-2" thick because I will give them an insulated core. I'm thinking a square tube frame for the triangles and then sheet metal for the covering which would leave it hollow to fill it with insulation.

Now, on to the questions about it... I need to make the triangle pieces interlock in some kind of sliding tongue and groove way, so that when the door is shut, it is sealed. But the thing that is bothering me more is how this Brad Kent design (if I may call it that) would operate. There are two "pegs" on each triangle section that ride in the slots in the big ring. This is simple, the triangles slide back and forth in that groove. But what stops the triangles from just rotating with that ring? What kind of fixed ring/fixture/slot would be needed on the opposite side of the triangles to keep them in place but allow them to still slide? I know that there are many more things to worry about later in the design of this door, but we'll get to them if you guys want to jump in and help me along the way... I'll wait to see if this post wakes any of you up.... :)

P.S.: Jake, your stepper motor (if it has the torque could help out in the end with this, I'm hoping to put some kind of bio access to open the door, and I want it all electronic, hand print, retinal or finger print scan, or just a number keypad. Also I want to put in a hand wheel to open it concealed behind a panel in the wall, in order to get out of the room in an emergency/failure)

[shoeshine]

Hi Seth, and welcome.

can I say about the "human sized" door... Oh Hell Yeah!

Check out Robo Von Bismarck's (aka Michael Cosgrove) thread over on brassgoggles.
http://brassgoggles.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,24887.0.html

He proposes a second set of guide channels in addition to the actuating mechanism... ingenious. (see his exploded diagram just shy of halfway down the page).

Anything you do with this please post back. We are all about collective wisdom.

Chris

[Sethers]

Awesome link Chris, it's exactly what I was looking for. Now the world makes sense again. They also talk in that forum about the airtight quandary . Making this thing so it isn't drafty. If it's a 7ft opening in the side of my house, I need a way to make it not too drafty. I DO live in Minnesota, after all. I was thinking a grooved side, and then buying poly strips to be on the edges that rub. Poly is nice and slippery, and would wear to be mated well. Then the other place to seal is around the circumference of the ring(s)... Not sure how to do that one yet.

So. I see Robo's design uses 8 sliding panels. every panel you put in these irises make the outer space required smaller, cause the panels are not as wide....I wonder how many panels one could use before the slots on the rings got too close together?

How do you calculate where the center point for the arced slots in the second ring should be? I know he had to have done that before having a machine cut his pieces. I need to know that, cause working on the scale that I am will have to be carefully measured. Then the next thing will be.... how the HECK am I gonna get two perfect 7 ft inner diameter and 12.5 ft outer diameter metal rings built?

[backyard_cnc]

Well after eyeing the mechanical iris for some time I finally got some shop time to cut a trial run on the pieces. While all the pieces turned out not too bad I didn't give much thought to actually assembling the unit and the required hardwre sizes so the first cut is more of a proof of concept for my toolpaths. I plan to get more plywood tomorrow and recut with new toolpaths. Hopefully the second time is a charm and I can assemble using all brass screws in a size of 10-24. I have resized all "holes" for either tap size or clearance size for 10-24 and hopefully the wood will "self-tap" as the hardware is installed! I will post further results tommorrow if all goes well! The plywood I used is actually a underlay for flooring but has a very nice veneer on one side but the other side has nail locations and writing which can be sanded off if required. This ply seems to machine nice and comes in 4 ft square pieces. I have also renested the parts to allow 2 complete sets of parts from each sheet of ply! Planning a few pieces for chrstmas gifts!


Gerald

[myxpykalix]

I'm itching to be able to get back in the shop but still can't pick anything up heavy so i wanted to try something small. The issue i have (i need a refresher course) so what i need to know is looking at the dxf how can i cut these gears so that they have the square flat bottoms when cutting this as a "flat on the table" file?

[danhamm]

I'm not interested in building a laser machine myself, what I have been thinking about doing is combining the two crafts (CNC routing and laser engraving/ cutting). Such as using the SB to CNC cut a 3D photo profile, then using the laser to etch/engrave to fine details into the scene. Has anyone tried that?

Perhaps this thread should be moved to another place to continue this discussion.

George
Yes, George we use the laser to compliment the cnc daily,
and to those who want a large format laser, I want you to think about this.
It would be nice for cutting large precise parts, but for engraving large letters over a big area or pictures, its called raster engraving and most machines do it from 250 lines per inch up to full coverage of 1600 lines per inch, and to do it at any depth it runs slow, example : at full power 100% at 1 inch a second, a 25 watt RF machine will cut 1/2 inch clear cedar, to engrave a picture 12inches x 12inches at 60% full power will take about and hour with a 25 watt synrad tube 100 watts will be 4 times faster..
WE did try it, a 4x4 laser, but no one was willing to pay for its work, so we sold it and went back to a smaller machine.

[shoeshine]

I'm itching to be able to get back in the shop but still can't pick anything up heavy so i wanted to try something small. The issue i have (i need a refresher course) so what i need to know is looking at the dxf how can i cut these gears so that they have the square flat bottoms when cutting this as a "flat on the table" file?


I cant say I quite understand Jack. perhaps rephrase the question?

The dxf can be profile cut with an 1/8" bit. "flat on the table"

[Lemanskis]

The Institut du Monde Arabe ( Arab World Institute )

Uses something like this for a Facade system,
they don't all work anymore. :(

[myxpykalix]

Hi Chris,

I think you understood my question because you gave me the answer i was seeking but sometimes i have to ask a question twice before i understand the answer:eek: so here goes.

This pic is a section of your gears. I have drawn a 1/16th circle to represent a bit. Even at 1/16th it won't be able, because the bit is round, to go cut a sharp square edge.

Because of that, and now you say a 1/8th" bit will work, the intersections will be rounded instead of square. Will that have an effect on the meshing of the gears?

I have not cut gears flat on the table so my lack of understanding has me wanting to understand before i go cut something and screw it up.:D

[gabrielleigh]

Heya Chris. I loved reading through this thread and watching the development of this project. Collaboration between creative people is always a fascinating process to observe.

I was curious how this iris mechanism would function at a much smaller scale, so I made a special laminate from some central american cocobolo wood veneers that I had laying around. The laminate ended up being about .125" thick and features two "cross grain laminated" layers to make it very strong and resistant to cracking or splitting.

I downloaded one of the dfx files that you guys shared in this thread, and I spent some time optimizing it for a much smaller scale. Like some other people had mentioned, I ended up going through and standardizing every single bolt hole in all of the parts for some microscopic brass pins that hold it all together.

My cocobolo laminate cut very clean and sharp using a .313" two flute cutter from precisebits.com. I actually used little dots of super glue to "tack weld" the laminate to my table surface. Due to the micro level of work I was doing with this project, I did a fresh table surfacing pass right before I tacked down the laminate. I knew I was working with tolerances of less than a thousandth, so I wanted the table fresh and perfectly flat for this job.

The end product is something I plan on using in several upcoming projects, but here is a pic of the first prototype. The light-colored "drive gear" in the upper right part of the pic is about the size of a dime. The entire size of this assembled iris is less than three inches wide, it easily fits in the palm of your hand!

http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww132/gabrielleigh/Iris1.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww132/gabrielleigh/Iris3.jpg
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww132/gabrielleigh/Iris5.jpg

[myxpykalix]

Ok gabriel so where your picture? To add a picture scroll down to "additional options" before posting a message, then go to "manage attachments" click that and go find the picture you want to post....that should get you going.


you figured it out....

[shoeshine]

Very Cool. May I ask it's intended purpose?

I seem to be going in the exact opposite direction.
I got a call from the props dept of the CBC (Canadian Broadcasting) needing an Iris made 4' wide. Aparantly going to be on the set of some Sci-Fi show they are shooting in Saskatchewan.

[myxpykalix]

Chris i've always been told that "Bigger is Better" so i like your iris. What did you make it out of? How long did it take?
Is this just an enlarged version of the files that have already been posted?

I also like gabe's because you could use that as a fancy opener for a jewelry box, both are cool.:D

[shoeshine]

Jack, It's just ply (baltic birch 3/4" for the base and 1/2' for the parts)

Only took me a few hours as it is just a blow up of the smaller unit and so much quicker to cut out of wood than brass. Took me longer to make a run to the hardware store and shop for properly sized bolts and such than it did to cut. Good thing too as this was for film. Money is no object, time is absoulutely critical.

[gabrielleigh]

I build lots of strange things in my shop. By trade, I am a cuesmith. I build and repair pool cues for customers all around the world. My father is a luthier, so the benefits of having a Bot were pretty obvious for both of our businesses. I was able to finally get one last year after slobbering over the website for the last ten years or so.

I spend about half my time building parts for my father's business and my pool cue work, the other half of my time gets invested into some pretty insane projects. One of the things I am very passionate about is using the Bot to do micro-scale machinework. When I first got the Bot, I was pretty confident that it could work on a small scale, but it took me a while to get a good selection of microbits and collets that would do the work I wanted to do. I also had to develop my understanding of how to do multi-sided machine work, since many of the projects I wanted to tackle were machined from several sides.

When I saw your mechanical iris project last year, I thought about how cool it would be to incorporate intricate wooden mechanisms like that into everyday mundane objects. Then when I saw how you were incorporating it into the door you built, I knew I had to have a Bot so I could try to build some of the ideas I had in the back of my mind.

I picked up a copy of Google Sketchup Pro, and discovered the unbelievable collection of 3D models in the Google Warehouse. Millions upon millions of three-dimensionally modeled things at my fingertips. Almost all of them can be downloaded and disassembled in Sketchup.

For the last seven months or so, I have been using the Bot to build hundreds of unique things. Pool cue parts, vintage guitar parts, inlaid cutting boards, cooking utensils, jewelry, walking canes (I am disabled), porch swings, exotic wood pens and pencils, and many other things. I also make the simple stuff that Bots were designed to make like signs and stuff.

But nothing grabs my attention more than the cool mechanical things that people come up with like your mechanical iris. The other stuff I make usually just gives me a fleeting bit of satisfaction, but the Rube Goldberg mechanical gadgetry that I have been making with the Bot usually causes me to run outside my shop screaming and pounding my chest like a gorilla when I get it finished.

Your iris design is something I hope to incorporate into quite a few projects in the near future. One of the most unique projects is one I am nearing completion on now. I have been commissioned to produce a series of steampunk-style mechanical tobacco pipes. I knew the moment I was asked to build them that your iris would be the perfect mechanism to install on the pipe. Your iris design will sit atop the bowl of the pipe, and the smoker will rotate a small knob to open the iris, insert the tobacco, and smoke away in mechanical bliss.

I have the prototype almost done, today I will be cutting out a set of mechanical iris parts that are intricately adorned with micro v-carved Celtic knotwork. The photo below shows part of the main body of the pipe, and the prototype iris mechanism I made to test out the function of the design at this small of a scale. The completed pipe will be heavily engraved with Celtic designs. You can see from the photo how your iris design will sit on top of the pipe body :)

http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww132/gabrielleigh/PlanetaryNavigatorPrototype.jpg

[myxpykalix]

Gabe,
Not being a smoker i'm wondering if adjusting the the size of the opening thru which you draw your air would have any advantage? Or is it more a decorative feature?
I definitely think you would have to have your bot dialed in extremely well to do that small of work accurately and it looks fantastic.

I too have always been fascinated by "Rube Goldberg-ish" type devices having grown up in the Chicago area and frequenting the Museum of Science and Industry i was always awed by some of the stuff i saw there.

I'd love to see some of the things you have made. I'd even like to maybe collaborate on some types of projects like that. You should do a search on youtube for "kenetic sculptures" Here's a good one:
http://www.youtube.com/user/mechanicalsculptor?feature=results_main

keep up the cool stuff!:D

[gabrielleigh]

Indeed, Jack. My father commented that the iris would act like a chimney flu baffle on a wood stove. Could be a neat feature for sure!

I would love to discuss any collaborative ideas you have, too. Sadly, I live in an area that is essentially devoid of creative craftsmanship. I have to resort to chatting on the interwebs to find people like you to work with. Shoot me any ideas you have, I would be happy to work on them when I have some free time.

I got the pipe project prototype finished today, I threw up a new thread with lots of new pics here:

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?p=132874&posted=1#post132874

[bill.young]

More mechanical mechanisms...this time light switches.

http://www.greentreejewelry.com/steam-punk-light-switches/

[Bob Eustace]

This really shows how good the $26 piece of software is. I was impressed!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yz10C0U6tM0&feature=youtube_gdata_player

[myxpykalix]

I bought that program but have yet to make anything with it. If anyone needs any gears made let me know, i'll make you some dxfs to cut.:eek:

[Bob Eustace]

Jack that video made me get the wants for a laser attachment! I had no idea you swapped tons of saw dust for tons of smoke and the smoke thingo is quite noisy.

[myxpykalix]

No i just have the program not the laser. It might be nice to have one of those but i'm not convinced i need one of those yet. Besides i know a botter 20 miles from here who has one if i need something cut i'm sure i could pay him to do it cheaper then buying a laser myself.:eek: