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myxpykalix
09-24-2006, 08:14 PM
In trying to set up my 0,0,0 position I am having problem. I use the key pad to run the carriage to the corner I want to assign my 0,0 to. I then run the Zzero.sbp file to set my Z zero file. It goes thru and asks if I am happy with my X,Y 0 position, I type Y, it asks is my plate below bit to set Z, I say Yes. It goes down touches plate raises up a bit, I save those settings. I then try to run the table surfacing file. When i do that the Y axis moves over 2-3 inches to the left to its limit and stops with a error message. Is it that I am setting my 0,0 in the wrong corner?
It is set in the lower left corner as you are looking at it in the X axis. I can go take a pic if that would help?

btk
09-24-2006, 08:30 PM
Jack,

When you put into "K" mode, does your rigth arrow move the tool Positive X direction and up arrow move in the positive Y direction?

This will tell you if you are set up correct?
If you are in the correct place,
post the first 20 lines of the surfacing routine that you are using (use JE command and then cut and past into your next forum post).

Brian

myxpykalix
09-24-2006, 08:59 PM
I have that problem solved but went on to another one. I ran my C2 command (zero 0) set my plate down, set alligator clip on router bit. It said to touch plate to bit to see if #1 lit up, well #1 was already lit up and was on. I hit C2 to run the zeroing routine and i get error message "Z contact did not clear, exiting". I did note that it asked if i wanted to start the routine form 0,0,0 (in different terms) I said Y. The Z axis went up to 4.00 that was when i got the error message. I think i set my Z 0 height to default at 4" to make sure i didn't hit material when it traveled.

steve4460
09-24-2006, 09:47 PM
Hi Jack

If your # 1 light is on before you touch the plate , then you need to reverse the black and white wire in the control box .

Bot on

Stephan

myxpykalix
09-24-2006, 10:04 PM
ok....i'll do that. The FF has set in (frustration factor). I Zero'ed all 3 axis on the right side of table and the surfacing file would work, like it needed to start from the right side travel to the left side then start cutting down the x axis so i think i have that figured out, but heres ANOTHER problem! when you start the surfacing file one thing it asks "is router on?" I turn the switch to the on position however the router does not come on. I assumed it would come on when it got to the starting cutting point but it never did. I had it set to "air cut" about 1/4" above table anyway because i wanted to see it move first but the router never came on. I have it wired into the control box (scott walked me thru it so i know its right) but there was never any power to the router. I have one of those extension cords with a glow plug to tell you its plugged in but it never lit up. Any suggestions?

steve4460
09-24-2006, 10:32 PM
There is a START button next to the reset button on the control box that you have to push when prompted to start the router .
Bot on

SV

myxpykalix
09-24-2006, 11:12 PM
When i zero'ed on the right side of table i zeroed X and Y at the corner of the plywood and had the outside diamter of the bit to the right side edge of plywood when i zero'ed. When it started to do its first pass of surface planing it started off the left side of plywood. That told me that my zero point was in too far off the right side of plywood. My question is what is the zero point of the X,Y in relation to the router bit? Is it the center point of the shank?

rhfurniture
09-25-2006, 02:08 AM
yes
The XY position is always at the center of the bit.

mikejohn
09-25-2006, 02:23 AM
The x,y and z positions are not relative to the Shopbot, but to the tool you are using.
Imagine if you had 2 Z axis, at the same moment, x,y and z zero would be different for each of them.
When you create a drawing, you asign zero points for x, y and z. When you zero the tool this becomes the zero of the drawing. If you had, for instance a 6mm bit, you could offset your drawing 3mm right and up, then x zero on the left side ofthe bit, y zero on the near side of the bit.
I am not advocating this! I am just trying to make it clear that zeroing is relative to your drawing and the bit.

..........Mike

harryball
09-25-2006, 08:13 AM
I always 0 to the center of the bit, this allows for bit changes to make sense. I know of someone that zeros to the edge of the bit but he only does cut outs and cuts with a 3/8" cutter. He claims it allows him to save that extra material on the sides.

Anyway, when I need to zero x,y I install a V bit and use it to point to the edge of the table.

Another tip, set the absolute X,Y 0,0 position of the table... then set your working 0,0 with the V bit... BEFORE you zero out to the working coordinates write down the X,Y and keep them. Then in future if you need to re-zero go to the absolute machine 0,0, rezero, move to the coordinates you wrote down and rezero. That should put you back on the working 0,0 without sighting.

Robert