Plastic Nails

[mziegler]

Is there any other Shopboters that use plastic nails? I used Raptor Nails in my shop. The Raptor Nails website is http://www.raptornails.com/raptornails.html. It might be helpful we can share information to use this product better. Mark

[mziegler]

From old thread - vacuum system
Dave , John, when I start to use plastic nails I also was trying lever the part up off the spoil board with a chisel, screwdriver, pry bar, etc. That didn’t work. I got a little smarter, took a hammer and give the part a blow to the side and thus releasing the part. The sharp blow to the side of part will easily snap off the nails. Mark

[luke]

Mark
Great idea. I would like to ask you a few questions about your process.
What gauge nails do you use to secure the piece?
What is the spacing per nail?
I visited the Raptor website and it didn't say whether or not it will nail mdf?
Do you have to use their nail gun?

[davidallen]

I've used their nails and staples for several years.

I like them for not only holding stuff on the 'bot, but also using under fiberglass. they'll hold well enough for stressed panels and won't rust or swell with heat like iron.

da

[mziegler]

Luke,
What gauge nails do you use to secure the piece? I used the 15 gauge nails and model 17.55p gun
What is the spacing per nail? That is not that important, what is more important is the location of the nails in or around the part, I will write another message about that
I visited the Raptor website and it didn't say whether or not it will nail mdf? Yes, it will nail mdf
Do you have to use their nail gun? Yes, because their nails only can be use with their nail guns
Mark

[mziegler]

Where to locate nails in parts? There is lots different things that can be done, lots depend on the material, thickness and especially on the part that being made. So here some of things I had done.

For parts with through drill holes, run the drill path first so that it will cut in the part .050 deep, that will give the locations to place the nails, run all the other tool paths and then run the drill path the second time at full depth and thus this releasing the part from the table, too do this the parts must be heavy enough that router will not lift and move parts.
For parts that have two passes, fasten the sheet to the spoil board with a couple nails (generally you only need a couple to hold 4 by 8 sheet), run the first pass, now everything is laid out for you to see where more nails might be needed to hold the parts, use more nails and then run the second pass.
For things like small signs, nails can be locate where the lettering is going to be, v-carving, slots, pocket out areas, mounting holes, etc. Or the nails holes can be putty over. No problems for large sign, nails are invisible for cars.
For small parts with tabs the nails can be locate near or in the tabs. (some parts are to small for nails)
For design items, testing programs and one time runs stuff, do a light skin cut on the sheet, that will show locate of everything that should be nail, fire away and then run the part program at full depth. Crank up the feed rate for the skin cut.
Like some people do for screws, you can make a drill program to locate where nails should be place. Also nails can be locate in tool paths.
Mark

[rustnrot]

Mark and others, I am getting ready to purchase the 17.55p gun and 15 gauge nails soon. Primary use is to hold 1/4" mahogany to a substrate, secondary use is to hold stuff to the shopbot table, which includes the 1/4" thick mahogany. It sounds like I need to give the parts a good side "whack" to release from the table. Do you think the 1/4" mahogany will stand up to that side whack? Just how much of a whack is required anyway?

[beacon14]

put a block of wood between the hammer and the mahogany whilst wacking and it should be fine. If you can whack the end grain as opposed to the edge of the board, that's even better (but still use a block).

[jhicks]

Thanks for this post. I have their gun and used to use it for 1/2" baltic birch hold down but drifted away from the technique on other projects. The one thing I recall is the nail remaining in the MDF salvage bed board tended to raise the surface and constantly had to be chizeled down. They also have screws and have received samples but havent tried them yet.
Since I abandoned the plastic nails, Ive gone to simple outer fences to square and hold laterally then walnut wooden "wing nuts" that I screw into the side fences and turn over the edge of the stock being cut to hold it down. Add a thin final pass cut to the cut strategy and the pieces we cut seem to stay in place fine.
Generally we are cutting MDF, TRUPAN, and sign materials but I think I'll revisit the Raptor nail and screw ideas.
Thanks

[rustnrot]

How well does the nail piece that is left in the wood (but sanded flush) with the surface look if stained and then coated with a clear finish? I expect it to be seen if looked at very closely, but with figured wood I doubt it is very noticeable.

[gene]

Has this changed any with the years that have gone by? Do yall still use this type gun and fasteners? i looked at them years ago but i didnt get one , still thinkin on it.