HELP!!

[dray]

Heh.. ok I got my prs alpha plumbed up, square and level. all the cables are tied up and ready to put in the control box. But I am stumped on a couple things. The manual has some pictures but they are black and white and about 1" X 1" (a picture tells a thoudsand words) So i cant make out if its a postage stamp or the inside of my control box.



My control box was pre wired for spindle that I will buy in the future when $$/wife allows.

For now I have the PC router setup. There are 2 heavy guage insulated whips coming out of the control box. Cant I directly run one of these to a 110v 30 amp Junction box and do the same with the router until I upgrade to a spindle?

If so which whip?

Thx in advance



8423

[srwtlc]

Hey Danny,

I'm in the same situation. If I figure it out before someone else enlightens us here, I'll let you know.

[Brady Watson]

Danny,
There should be printed tags on the rear of the control box where the heavy insulated power cables exit & enter. There should be 3 cables: One 30A 110v entering the control box to energize the PRS electronics. One 15A 110v entering the control box to energize the contactors used to turn on the router, One 15A 110v exiting the control box to attach the router plug to. Keep in mind that this last cable may not be present and often times it is suggested that your electrician lop off the end of a HD extension cable and wire it to the contactors in the control box that handle turning your router on & off. The router plugs into the female end of this cord, just like any other.

In the inside door of your control box should be a complete set of wiring diagrams for your particular setup. You'll want to look them over & be sure that your control box came wired for a router (or if it has an extra set of contactors for a future spindle upgrade)...which I know you stated, just reiterating.
So to answer your original question...yes, but you will not need 30A for the router, only 15A. Do not wire the router to the same circuit/disconnect as the control box & you'll be fine.

Hope that helps!
-B

[dray]

This is the inside of my box.. Which whip goes to what? There was alot missing in my manual. I just downloaded it from the site and i didnt have alot of the stuff in my manual. Also if I remember correctly the wiring diagrams were for VFD?

BTW thx for the replies!


8424


8425

[bill_l]

Danny,

Look on the side of the control box where the cables exit and it will be marked as to which one is which. If you say that you had them set it up for a future spindle then one of them will be a 220 line and the other will be the 110 to power the control box. The 110 will be wired directly to the breaker as will the 220 line when you finally get your spindle.

I believe that your router will have to be connected externally, call Scott at SB to confirm.

There are wiring diagrams for the control board and if I remember, they were in the brown envelope on the inside of the control box door.

I may have been the first one to go down this road. In the process I sent Support a list of the discrepancies that need to be addressed. Yes there are some items missing from the manuals and some revisions necessary for the PRS but they are working on it. Just give them a call and they will either talk you through it or e-mail what you need. Believe me, they are working hard to get any of the "kinks" out of the process.

Now, I haven't cut anything with mine yet, back on the road for four days and I still need to complete the vacuum table top, but this thing has enough speed and torque to push my pickup out of the garage! The difference is "night and day" when compared to my PRT ... I don't think that you or any new PRS owner will be disappointed.

If you got any other questions feel free to e-mail me.

Bill

[Brady Watson]

Your 2nd picture is upside down...but you want to look for the 15A small fuse (next to the 30A one) and trace that to it's set of contactors. You can see the 2 fuses in the 2nd pic between the power switch and the 1st set of contactors. The 30A fuse is for the electonics in the box. The 15A should be for your 15A router. Trace it to the set of contactors that doesn't have any wires in the bottom contactor. There will be 2 sets without wires in the bottom, this is why it is important to trace the fuse to the appropriate set.

Again, this is something that your electrician should be doing if you are unable to read & interpret the electrical diagrams that came with the control box. Verify what I stated is correct with your wiring diagram & your electrician. If in doubt call ShopBot.

-B

[richards]

Danny,

A good rule to follow with electronics is if you aren't absolutely positive about how to wire it, hire someone to help. Any electrician should be able to take a quick look at the contactors and wire things up in about 1/2-hour.

Your box has six contactors. Mine has four. Your box switches five circuits at the door disconnect, mine switches four circuits. If our machines were exactly the same, I could tell you how to wire yours.

Basically, here is the way that my box is wired. I have two AC lines entering the box. One line (Line A)is 120VAC to supply power to the stepper motors and all components inside the box. The other line (Line B) is 240VAC (single phase) that merely passes through the contactors and then out of the box to the VFD.

On Line A (120VAC), there are three wires, Neutral (White) Line or Hot (Black) and Ground/Earth (Green). The Neutral conductor is connected to a contact point on the disconnect (Door mounted switch), The Black conductor is connected to a contact point on the disconnect. The Green conductor is screwed to a common grount/earth connection inside the control box. On the other side of the disconnect, the Black conductor is connected to a 30A fuse and then to a contact on a Contactor. On the other side of the disconnect, the White conductor is connected directly to a contact on a Contactor. All other circuits that use the 120VAC power are pre-wired inside the control box.

On Line B (240VAC - single phase), there are four wires, Neutral (White) L1 (Black), L2 (Red) and Ground/Earth (Green). The Neutral conductor is not used. I screwed a wire nut to the White wire and then tucked the wire out of the way. The Black wire is connected to a contact point on the disconnect, On the other side of the disconnect, the Black wire is connected to a contact on a Contactor. The Red wire is connected to a contact point on the disconnect, On the other side of the disconnect, the Red wire is connected to a contact on a Contactor. The Green conductor is screwed to a common grount/earth connection inside the control box. The Contactor that received the Black and Red wires are connected in series to another Contactor. The 2nd Contactor has a Black wire and a Red wire that supply voltage to my VFD. The Contactors have numbered contacts, i.e. L1, L2, L3, T1, T2, T3 (yours may be labeled differently). Anyway, I connected L1 to Black in, L2 to Red in, since they represent Line In. On the 2nd Contactor, I connected the Black wire exiting the control box to T1 and the Red wire exiting the control box to T2, since they represent Terminal Out.

Your electrician will be familiar with how the circuits work, so he will be able to wire things properly.

[srwtlc]

Thanks for all the follow up guys. I knew that there would be many a answers before I would get a chance to take a good look at mine.

Mine's sitting in the doorway screaming at me "You can't go away for the weekend!" ;-)