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View Full Version : Nails can be your friend.



knight_toolworks
09-21-2009, 01:33 PM
I do so many one offs and so many different materials that sometimes vac hold down is a hassle or not practical. sheet goods for the most part I use vac on but when I haw to cut a single board it is just not practical or cutting odd shaped scrap and such.
so I use a fair amount of 18 gage brads from a airgun. they are fast and easy and if you hit one it does not usually matter if you don't do it often. one thing I have found is the longer they are the more they hold. not because they go in deeper but I think it is the glue. the more glue the more they stick.
but I can hold down something in second with brads. slap it on the table figure where I can nail it and tack it down.
when I am cutting cheap plywood for a upholstered furniture guy I cut the ply in two passes. the first pass then pause nail the parts in two places and the final cut.
I bought a 15 gage gun for these order I needed to assemble and I am glad I did. I had to cut 1.125" cheap plywood and even though it was close to flat it was just too much for the vac to suck down. I guess if I stood on the sheet it would suck down but I just nailed the 4 corners then as the cuts were started I added 4 more on each end to hold the strips. I found the 18 gage would not hl the ply in place with the speeds I was cutting so the 15 was great.
one advantage to the larger nails is they pull out of the table with less effort. they also tend not to break when removing them from material.
now I only use screws on plastic or other materials I can't drive a screw through, the nails are faster and cause less damage then screws do.
I had a bench back to carve the other day. and it was like how do I hold it down? it had slats and I could put blocks beaten them. then I got the bright idea I laid some scrap 3/4" ply across the slats and then nailed between them slats with the 15 gage and it was rock solid
I had some thin wood to edge glue and I needed to clamp the flakes flat so I would get a good joint. I find it is a hassle to try to run two bars top and bottom and clamp each end. I just used some of the scrap 1.125 plywood and nailed each end and that clamped them flat very well land was very fast.

tmerrill
09-21-2009, 02:48 PM
Steve,

I think this qualifies you as the "Norm" of CNC!

Next step is to get your own show.

Tim

knight_toolworks
09-21-2009, 03:47 PM
there you go. the thing is I got my firs gun for this job. before I never nailed anything together.

joe
09-21-2009, 05:42 PM
Steve,

I think you're on the right path.

I've been using alterntive hold down methods for years, bypassing a vacuum altogether. Many of the newbees aren't aware of the many ways around the vacuum hold down that are fast, cheap and quiet. Your brad gun is just one of the good examples.

Joe
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)

beacon14
09-21-2009, 05:58 PM
Yes the brad gun sure makes a good SUPPLEMENT to a vacuum table, eh Joe?

knight_toolworks
09-21-2009, 06:42 PM
what I have found is the longer the nail the worse it sticks. so always use the shortest you can.

frank134
09-21-2009, 09:32 PM
I found plastic nail great to use. If you hit one It dosen't hurt the bit. I have had them inside my material too. just cut sand and stain. I find them way better then brad.
http://www.raptornails.com/english/firstframe.html this is the site were I got my gun.

joe
09-21-2009, 09:36 PM
Yep that's a great nail system but it costs way too much for me. Not only is the gun high dollar, the nails are out of site.

Joe
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)

eaglesplsh
09-22-2009, 08:48 AM
I converted to 18ga brad nails years ago because they were so much faster to put in and less likely to damage bits.

As others have mentioned above, the drawback to brads comes with removal of your part/scrap and removal of the brads. I experimented with a lot of things before finding some good tools for that end of the process...

Brads that go 1/2" deep into the MDF table seem to be the perfect length for most jobs. They have plenty of "clamping" power to keep your workpiece from moving, but it's easy to pry pieces off the table when machining is finished.

I've found a tack puller (meant for upholstery work) is great for prying my parts off of the table - lots of leverage and easy to get under the edge of parts.

Most of the time I just leave the brads in my scrap, but if you're doing 2 sided machining you'll need a technique for removing them without damage to your part. The same technique comes in handy when a brad sticks in the table instead of sticking in your scrap when you remove your work piece... I've tried a lot of tools for this particular problem. The best I've found yet are "end nippers" or end cutting wire cutters. I use just a little pressure so that they bite into the brad without cutting through it. Then I rotate the pliers 90 degrees like a lever. The leverage makes it easy - even for 2" brads in 1.5" material.


8489

I've also been eying these fence pliers for some time, but what I've got almost never fails so I haven't bothered.


8490