Soundproofing

[diapowder2000]

What is best way to supress(cut) noises from router(Porter) and vacuum(for dust collection)to office? I have a 20ft regular drywall inbetween workshop area and office area. Has anyone tried "Natural Cotton Fiber" (installed inbetween studs)?

[btk]

I have used a layer of Homasote under sheetrock and regular batt insulation between studs to dampen sound.

[gerald_d]

Chris, to kill that kind of sound you need something with higher density (weight). MDF is good for this.

[oddcoach]

Build a second wall next to the first but do not make any connection between the 2 the sound will not be transmited through to the other side. put batts inthe wall too.

[daniel]

Hey Guys, I'm about to go through the same issue.
I've never built a wall so It is going to be new to me. I know what drywall and studs are. Is sheetrock the samething as drywall? And what are batts?

If you frame out a room around your bot with drywall on the outside, Should you then put MDF on the inside?

Thanks, Daniel

[btk]

Daniel:
Sheetrock and Drywall are the same thing
Batt insulation comes in roles and is soft like a blanket (as opposed to Rigid Insulation which is hard and comes in sheets) I Rx using Formaldehyde Free from Johns Manville. In interior walls, do not need to use insulation with Kraft Paper (paper applied to one side of the batt), however it does assist in installation as you can stapple to the studs. The Batts come in perfect width to go between 16" on-center studs.

If the wall is not structural, consider using Metal Studs (used often in commercial construction) as they are lighter/faster/easier to work with (particuarly if you are working alone).

Also, if you are working with an existing wall that is already sheetrocked, you can also apply a second layer of Sheetrock (get 5/8" instead of 1/2" thick) which will help dampen the sound a lot.

Brian

[btk]

I use the The Homasote & Double Sheetrock system when building medical offices that needed privacy between rooms.
Here are some pictures from my shop space.
My goal was not to dampen sound entirely in
shop (as I like to hear what is going on and/or wrong), but rather to contain the dust.

Old Shop:
2 x 4 Wood Framed Walls.
3/4" Plywood Sheathing.
3/8" PlexiGlass.

New Shop (pictures are not so great)
2 x 4 Metal Studs
5/8" Sheetrock only on one side
3/8" Plexiglass.

Both Setups were fine, however to tell you the truth, When on the other side of the shop, I can not really hear when the job is done cutting and sometimes leave the door open a crack.



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[gerald_d]

This subject is discussed on many forums and here (http://www.recording.org/ftopic-16768-0-days0-orderasc-.html) is a link to a typical one with many links to others. The reasons I mentioned MDF above are because a.) It is a material that woodworkers understand, and b.) it works well for us. We generally build permanent walls of brick around here and most of the terminology in this thread is foreign to me.

[beacon14]

if you have an existing wall the most cost effective sound barrier is a layer (or two) of 5/8" drywall hung on resilient channel, which is a "Z" shaped aluminum extrusion that isolates the drywall from the underlying wall. Be sure to seal all penetrations and bring the channel and drywall all the way to the structural ceiling, walls, and floor, and seal around all the edges. Your door(s) and windows are the weak points - not much better than holes. Doors need to be solid core and sealed tight when closed. Windows are best done with two layers separated by an inch or more but not parallel to each other (angle one piece slightly), and sealed tight. Bottom line is any air leakage is sound leakage.

[diapowder2000]

Thank you all very much for your inputs.
Have a wonderful day. Hopefully stress free:-)