Workpiece Alignment ideas

Hello-
First post- please be patient.
After using our PRS Alpha for 4+ years, I'd like to make workpiece alignment simpler. I may be missing some simple solution. I am also likely adding a vacuum table in the near future.

I'd like load my sheetgoods against a positive stop for X and Y and know that I am in the right spot every time. We rarely change our zero for X and Y. We use a lot of 4x8 sheets of varying thicknesses and frequently cut all the way to the edge.
I have been toying with using 'bench dogs' of some sort that drop into holes on the X and Y zero lines. The other thought I had was guides on hinges that can be flipped out of the way when cutting along the zero lines.
In the past, I have set my spoilboard outside my zero lines for x and Y and cut a slot (1/4" wide by 1/8" deep) and aligned to the inside edge. It works ok but can be painful when I resurface.

I feel like someone else has to have a solution. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

You could probably search Gary Campbell here or on Youtube. (see this vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDlRTOG9B4M ). You can adapt the concept to your own needs.
Best Regards
Monty

I cut the zero edges of my spoilboard to be the exact zero position. That way, to align a sheet or other material to the table, I just have to get it aligned with the spoilboard edges. Very simple. Very repeatable. Easily verified.

"You could probably search Gary Campbell here or on Youtube. You can adapt the concept to your own needs."

I'll take a look. Thanks!

Are you using a vacuum table? I guess my concern is the distance of the plenum from the edge. I don't have much first-hand vacuum table knowledge.

I use a vacuum table and side references.http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/att...id=34499&stc=1http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/att...id=34498&stc=1I replace the inside piece periodically and trim it to zero on the SB. I have very accurate 1/2" and 1" spacers which I use occasionally. The vacuum plenum is HDPE (I think) but I am going to change to a phenolic table in the next month for improved dimensional stability. I use 2 Lighthouse vacuum motors mounted under my shop with cooling fans on them. I can hold sown a 4 X 8 but rarely do. I often use sacrificial plywood sucked down and screwed to that or otherwise hold it to the plywood. http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/att...id=34500&stc=1 As you can see these last a long time.I also have low density fiberboard spoilboard pieces cut for each vacuum zone and flattened in place for hold down. This works well for me.

Here's my simple solution to X,Y alignment.

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/att...id=34501&stc=1
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/att...id=34502&stc=1
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/att...id=34503&stc=1

Not shown, but there is also one that goes into the front of the table to align the X at the same point every time.

I used the CNC to drill the holes for the blocks. Made the blocks the old fashion way with table saw and drill press. Pins are 5/8" oak dowel wood. Has worked well for about 9 years now.

Don said-"Here's my simple solution to X,Y alignment.
Not shown, but there is also one that goes into the front of the table to align the X at the same point every time.
I used the CNC to drill the holes for the blocks. Made the blocks the old fashion way with table saw and drill press. Pins are 5/8" oak dowel wood. Has worked well for about 9 years now."

Thanks, Don- this is the general concept I had in mind.

I use slide bolts for the stops