should i be able to cut plexiglass. Not sure where to start with speeds and feeds. most likely will use double sided carpet tape as a hold down. and thinking an 1/8" end mill of some sort or 1/4" super-o or upcut?
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should i be able to cut plexiglass. Not sure where to start with speeds and feeds. most likely will use double sided carpet tape as a hold down. and thinking an 1/8" end mill of some sort or 1/4" super-o or upcut?
Plexiglass can be tricky to cut. The biggest issue that I always had was heat. If you cut to slow and you have a small cutter that wont dissipate the heat you will have melting issues. Cutter size and # of flute is also something to thing about. I found that small diameter cutters with 4 or more flutes didn't allow the chip to clear away and this created issues. I found that a 3/8 dia (or larger) 2 flute gave me the bests outcome. Best thing you could do is use a scrap piece of material and just start experimenting with cutters, travel speeds and RPM's.
Let us know what you find.
The plexi at BB stores is usually extruded. Get cast from a reputable distributor, and set the feeds high, with slow speeds. There are specific bits for plexi, but a two flute spiral works real well.
Be sure to get chips, or rewelding can be an issue. If it begins to melt, it can wrap around the bit, and scratch the surface. Keep the protective sheet on if possible.
I've found the best end mill for plexiglas (acrylic) is a 1/8" single flute upcut running at 14k and 5 ips. The cut quality is good and the chips don't accumulate and remelt in the kerf. I've cut Lowes 1/4" (actually .23") plexiglass quite successfully with this type of bit. I buy ten packs of these bits (I like Kyocera) on eBay for less than $40. They last about 30 hours before wearing out. That's pretty good. I've run these bits through hundreds of hours of cutting on acrylic.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15203763158...oAAOxyDgRQ9cw0
The advantage of using the 1/8" end mills over larger is the smaller end mill imparts a lot less force on the acrylic which has a tendency to lift off the table if it's not securely held down.
Thanks all, I have enough info to give it a try. I am making an odd shaped clear plate to go over the electronics of guitar. Depending on out come, I have other ideas for this material also.
Just one of many projects cut from acrylic.
https://i.imgur.com/4R280an.jpg
I wish there was a like button on this forum.Quote:
Originally Posted by 8Ball
I cut it from Corian as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by coryatjohn
https://i.imgur.com/HQ1jFWh.jpg
I'm still pretty new to using my toy but recently cut faces for illuminated letters out of 3/16" white acrylic. I used a 1/4" two flute end mill from Carbide Tool Source (~$5 a bit) and they are USA made in Oregon. I ran it at 16k RPM @ 1.75 IPS but am sure i could have gone much faster. It was the first time cutting plex on my "toy" so i went sloooow but nothing remelted. Also, i have a vac hold down table but you could also get some 3M spray glue and attach your plex to some kind of backer sheet to make sure you are cutting all the way through the material - assuming you want to cut all the way through of course. I have a friend who used to do all of my routing and he regularly attaches sheet goods to a cheap carrier, especially when thru-cutting .125"-.250" aluminum. He doesn't have an LDF bed so cutting into his table is a bigger deal for him.
I have been cutting, engraving plastics for a few years also and have to agree with the folks who said to purchase cast acrylic. I run my spindle at 12k with no rewelding from 2 fluted bits from 1/16" endmills and ballmills or v bits either.http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/att...id=34994&stc=1http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/att...id=34995&stc=1