VCarved buttons

Wow,
What a difference between making a file for myself for a one of, and then making a file for a new employee up North Kirk hired with less than 2 weeks training!
Referencing from the same spot on spoilboard/naming files so they're obvious/combining toolpaths in the correct order/homing so no Keypading to change bits/ and tweaking so it will cut 3 species with the least amount of sanding....Oh Yeah, and trying to speed it up by 30 seconds here and a minute There---------OK all Vented:)
"How do I make mistakes today...Oh let me count the ways..."
I'm THIS Close:)
Time for breakfast!!

Customer liked that last Stella design so much they opened an account, BUT wanted one that looked more like a Compass Rose.
Did one right off the bat based on the Stella design, BUT thought it was too similar and spent several days on/off getting "Fancy"and VCarving and bitmap tracing:(
In the end they liked the simplest/fastest cutting one the best:)
Easy to overthink things for me:)
Also a close up that looks like an optical delusion(or I'm tired)....And YES, The countersink for buttonholes should have been ON the line...I know,I know,.....:)

Scott, those are awesome!!

Thanks Dick!
Same little $4 Kyocera 60degree engraving as when you were here. Did try an Onsrud .25 engraving bit and My Vortex 2F 60degree again, trying to eliminate a bit change, but had tearout where Fluting toolpaths met. Seems a new sharp bit with low mileage and a second "speed pass" eliminated both tearout AND sanding..looks almost burnished in person. Edges on cutout are only thing that needs sanding to soften.
Getting boring though...inlays and Celtics and Tin now this design is done:)

Those look great! Nice job.

What are your feeds and speeds Scott?
Dick

Thanks Will.
Dick, .7,.4,17K for Drillman1's .125"60 for both woods. Had tearout at .8IPS on the Maple on 1 in 6 so didn't try faster on Bloodwood as customer is waiting.
Normally do 1/2D passes, BUT second pass always caused tearout as it reversed, so 1 pass full depth up to 80%D works with that bit in Bloodwood and Purpleheart without much deflection. Tearout always at 45degrees to woodgrain at acute angles...so avoid if possible.
If 1/2D passes then 1,.5,16K is usually good.
OH, cleanup pass at 1.5,1.5,17K full depth works wonders.

Latest batch of new design.
SUPPOSED to look like a Compass Rose.
Turns out all the Bloodwoods are sold already and need to make another batch.

Does bloodwood "bleed" when wet?
Actually a serious question-it's one exotic I have not used.

Dave,
Honestly didn't know about unfinished Bloodwood/Satine.
Knew most solvents would leach out color, and know with 3 coats of oil the color won't transfer to light colored fabrics even after a 3 Woolite washes(UNLIKE Padauk which is only for dark fabrics unless 4 coats Watco).
Cold water on paper towel left the lightest of smudges and may just have been 400G dust. 10 minutes in cold water didn't change color of water, but boiling for 2 minutes in Nuke and then 5 minutes later is the color you see on the right in the Ball jar.
Linseed with no solvents on left was VERY slight.
Got a scrap in a watersoaked paper towel and going to leave overnight, if stained in AM I'll post pic.
Very dense(usually sinks in water or oil), carves beautifully, but can be splintery/brittle on cutout(like Lacewood, but not as bad) unless ALL the way through and be cautious cutting tabs off.
One of my favorites now.
Cutting speeds about 80% of Hard Maple seems to work well.