Black Box Vac Source

You don't need a check valve on any motor for it to be an ideal setup. My 'Ova da hump' valve concept is for high Hg" vacs to be used in conjunction with high CFM/Low Hg" to get over the hump & start building negative pressure with the little pump. It is mostly for guys with pucks, vacuum bagging or vacuum forming.

You should most definitely run filtration on those motors. An automotive air filter or cylindrical shopvac filter (Rigid brand ones work well) to keep anything the bleeder misses or chunks/debris when you first fire up your system. Also, put a little filter/breather on your bleeder holes for the vac cooling holes so that junk doesn't get into the pump that way. Cheap insurance...Few even think about the little PVC chips that are stuck to the inside of pipes when you cut them while plumbing the system the first time...

-B

Thanks Brady. I think I've got a good grasp and was probably over thinking the setup before. Let me get my machine and dust collection set up and I'll be on to building this.

If anyone has ideas for an inline filter that would work with a ~3" inlet/outlet, feel free to post them up. :)

Guys, I am new to this, but am trying to configure my vacuum table. I have a 1 mand cabinet shop and the size of my table is 2m x 3m. I just orderd 4 lighthouse pumps from Ward and he recomended I talk to you guys. I really liked the black box as was and the QUAD setup. My question is simple. I need to be able to get the max suction, and also do not even know the best way to connect the 4 pumps. Can you provide me some diagrams to help me with this - Will really appreciate this!

I usually cut 12mm MDF with a single cut, but then from time to time also have smaller peaces I cut such as 3mm MDF. The MDF sheet size is 1.7m x 2.8m

I'm about to wire up my (4) LH7123 motors and was wondering if someone could double check my wiring diagram that I plan on using? I'm going to add this indicator light (https://www.carltonbates.com/Indicat.../78966098732-1) for a couple of reasons. One is to make sure a fuse hasn't blown and the other reason is that it will give me a visual indication when the vacuum is running. Please let me know if you think this setup will work. Thanks.

Attachment 20408

I'm putting together a vac box following the work outlined in this thread. I was discussing it with an electrician friend and he asked about thermal overload protection. I assume with these "replacement" motors this is handled with the rest of the electronics and housing the motors go into. In the application outlined here I'm curious what are others doing to add thermal protection to the individual motors.

The only mention I have found was in another thread where someone used Lighthouse motors and mentioned "having their electrician install thermal protection" before the thread died out.

Thanks in advance for any help with this question.

Best,
Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bradywatson

I'm pretty sure serial setups are frowned upon by Lighthouse/Ward at this point. Parallel is the way to go if you want them to last. Just throw all the motors in one box to maximize airflow - then plumb from the box to your zones.

-B

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My two motors are on the way from TN. Going to depot tommorrow for pvc and plywood. I have read so much on this forum about vacuum hold down, and I just got to give it a try.

Nice! Make sure you add a filter...:)

-B

David,

My 2 motors were shipped Thursday or Friday from TN also so should be here today or tomorrow. Also called Ward to say I forgot to mention the gaskets and he had them added before shipping. I will be getting my plywood and pvc by this weekend, just too much going on to get it sooner. I have pulled down everything from this thread w/pics too to try to put it all together prior to heading the HomeDepot. Will take pics and post as I get going.

One question, to clear up the confusion, what is the actual recommendation of cutting the zones, I'm assuming the 1"x1" grid? How are they gluing the bleeder board down, by that I mean if you are using the grid, what part is being glued. I hope this part doesn't sound too stupid but I always was under the impression that you just layed the bleeder on top of the grid, is the bleeder board also the spoilboard? I will be sealing the edges.

Thanks for any help with this.

Joe

Joe,
I am doing the 1"x1" squares. But I have seen some that have done slightly different patterens or grooves throughout the plenum. I think it is all about air moving, could be circles I guess? As far as the bleeder board, it looks like you skim a little off side number one, then glue it down to the plenum. From what I have read here on the forum I think the best way would be to glue all around perimeter and in between the zones. (That is the way I understand it.) Then skim a little off the top side and ready to go.

My plan is this:
I have just redone my table base last week. I took it back to the stringers and started with a 3/4" MDO bolted to frame. Then added Rockler ttrack and screwed it down. Then glued down 3/4" MDF in between the tracks and skimmed .005 off the surface until flat.

Now, for my vaccum. I plan to build a box, cut one hole in the far end of my table for the PVC, and make a BradyVac one piece drop on board. I am keeping it small for my first try with vaccum hold down, After I work out the kinks, I will then probably make a 4'x4' Plenum and bleeder board for the far end of my table that will stay on the table most of the time.

I rarely cut things over 4'x4' so I figure most of the time I will have all the options available. Working on setting up Jigs, gonna start zeroing off my limit switches with custom c3 comands. I am trying to stop running my Bot like a cave man.....LOL

Dave

My new table base finished last week.